85lebaront2

But you're only a year younger than I am sir.

Steve, two suggestions, with the injectors (I would just do the driver's side) lifted up out of the manifold and the wiring harness unplugged, see if the injectors are spraying with the key on, if not, then you probably do not have an injector problem, if they do, unplug the individual injector connections and try the same test, if they do not, then it is wiring related. Second, same test again with the harness plugged in, if they spray continuously, then you have a wiring problem between the plug and EEC. Disconnect the EEC and repeat, no spray, EEC is kaput, spray, start looking for a ground in the two injector group wires, tan with a red dash and tan with an orange dash. Good luck, these are the kind of things that will drive you nuts. Your injectors should probably be orange top and are 19#/hr, those are used on 5.0 and 5.8L engines and a lot of the later Mod motors.

Easy to do, I usually heat the devil out of the bolt area, the one I sent was that way when I got it.

I feel much the same and one of the issues is politicians, most of whom are lawyers. Some one gives them a "great safety idea" and suddenly it becomes a mandated requirement in a few years. Collision avoidance sounds great on paper, but as has been pointed out has issues in the real world. One of my neighbors has a 2017 Subaru with their "eyesight" system to keep the car in the lane, he demonstrated it to me driving down US 13 here. Works pretty well, but does wander a bit if you take your hands off the wheel. Some high tech items are great, like Bluetooth enabled radios or entertainment systems, EATC systems are nice particularly around here where you can start the day with ice on the windshield and wind up in a few hours needing the A/C on. Plain cruise control is fine for me, don't want or need adaptive cruise. Story on fancy high tech entertainment systems, our 2011 Flex Limited has the headrest mounted video system for the center seats. Not long after we bought it, I ordered the navigation system (which I like) updates to the tune of $400 as it also includes the radio updates to display the name of the song and artist. When I went to install it I kept getting a "unreadable format" error on the touch screen. I contacted the company that provides the system for Ford and they replaced them with a another set. After a consult with the service manger at Kool Ford, he suggested the head unit might be bad and suggested first seeing if it would play a DVD or CD at all. No, would not work. I found a used head unit on eBay from an LKQ used part supplier and ordered it, USPS did a number on the box and one of the mounting ears was bent. I went ahead and disemboweled the center of the dash (I have the three volume "tome" for it) and switched it. Hooked up the controls and tried it, same result. I felt it might have been damaged in shipping and notified the seller who informed me he didn't have another one, keep it and refunded my money. I found another one and order it, but in the mean time decided to try some old fashioned diagnostic methods. First I found when I went into the menu for the entertainment system, it showed the drivers side headrest DVD player as "on", ok turn it off, hmm, won't stay off. I removed the unit and unplugged the power leads. Tried the navigation updates and they installed perfectly. Unit still has the power lead unplugged. When I purchased it used I only received one key, the expensive beast with the built in remote. Ok, bite the bullet and buy one from the dealer as it takes 2 in order to add an additional key. 2 hours later after Kool Ford cutting a new $50 (my cost) key, they could not program it to the vehicle. He cut a "service" key with no remote and was able to program it with no problem, gave me the key, and said "no charge". I opened a problem with Ford, which gave him some extra support, no help. Mary found a key on eBay, a 64 bit Stratec key, the ones Kool has from Ford are 128 bit Stratec keys and are supposed to be backwards compatible, sure, if you erase the BCM and start from scratch with the new keys. Found out the hard way, do not leave one in the ignition inside the garage (old habit from shop owner days). I left it in the garage during and after one of our blizzards and when it was clear, found the battery was dead. Putting the key in the ignition "wakes up" the electronics. Enough on this, I do like my older, less complex automatic headlights, even though the Taurus sensor is sometimes a temperature sensor and in cold weather will turn on the headlights in broad daylight.

FWIW, many years ago I was looking at an SAE spec for oil sludge buildup test, the specified test engine was a 1968 Ford 289 so maybe the oil change interval was based on that test.

Nothing to my truck, but did play French yard games (mow-z-lawn) with my Ford YT16H.

He may be referring to me. F0TF is definitely a 1990 PN, the catch code is the L0U stamped on the label and is the particular program or tune if you prefer loaded into the EEC. Yours is a 5.0L with MT? L0U is listed as Bronco, F-x50, E-x50 5.0L and is SD-Bank / Manual Unfortunately the source of information does not give the year or calibration code.

You don't by any chance have the catch code off it do you?

It's actually already there in Projects - Darth Vader along with a 0-60 run I recorded by holding my phone on the horn pad.

Should I link to my walkaround?

I started seeing it yesterday, but I have my ad blocker turned off as it was causing some errors when enabled. I will turn it back on and see what it does. Ok, that got rid of it and I can still see the signatures, that was the problem before.

That could be from a motorhome, they were on a modified P30 chassis (severely overloaded) and may well have had a remote, in front of the radiator reservoir for serviceability. Talk to some RV people as GM was the only one making class A chassis after Chrysler pulled out until Ford went back into the business.

Give her treats on demand.

Got Darth inspected today. Smart dogs, Trixie has Mary trained very well.

Ok, gentlemen, today I took a Chrysler K car pump and the E-series 460 pump and removed the outlet fittings an flow control/pressure regulator valves out for comparison. First is front of the Ford pump.

Yes, it is a real one, I used to own it. Plate under the hood:

No hurry on it, when you are blasting again will be fine.

I have posted it in several FB groups and already had a question, "where is Skiatook", I told him it was somewhere West of Podunk and North of Nowhere.

If you have time to blast it, I will use it and keep another for a spare. I need to clean up my Saginaw mount though so I can see if I can find a hose that will work.

The Falcon does, but he wrecked his BMW race car, the Shelby is a "toy" sort of like your Bee.

I said it had broken bolts in it that would need to be drilled out in order to use it. For your use, since you are going to cut the EGR flange off anyway, it won't matter. You could tap the hole and use it for a vacuum source.

Those are nice aircraft style fittings, they are probably AN flare however.

Yes, he emailed me through linked-in and ask if I used to own 66 GT350 2050, he is on FB and races among others an Australian Falcon.

Just in case, I think I still have at least one of the 1985.5/86 EECs I scrounged up when Matt was fighting with his. Be sure circuit 349 is connected to pin #56 and is seeing a pulse. That is the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) which tells the EEC the engine is turning and after it receives the #1 pulse (short pulse) starts firing the injectors.

Yes, as a matter of fact, Matt, and his brother and sister tried to track it down and get it back for me. It was a case of having 3 kids and needing the money so you let it go, my late wife actually left the house when it was picked up, I have given her the engagement ring in it. I had it for 11 years and had a lot of fun. BTW, it still has these on it: