85lebaront2

The piece he was looking for is the one screwed into the intake behind the thermostat, it has a heater hose nipple, place for one or maybe two temperature senders and a 5/16" nipple for the TB heat. It is the 18B402. but I suspect the original may not be available any more On the DRW trucks, until 1985 on Fords the SRW and DRW axles were the same length and if you looked at the track width the SRW rear wheels track essentially directly behind the fronts, with a DRW truck the centerline of the rears track there. In 1985 on the pickups, Ford started using a different axle housing, their own, and moved the rear wheels out so the center of the inboard rear is in line with the front wheel. This (a) increased the width of the truck to right at 8' and (b) allows the same center floor on the bed for SRW and DRW beds. Here is a picture showing the difference in length beyond the spring pads. SRW is in back DRW in front

Ok, a couple of items, I was looking at the illustrations on the Windsor family trying to find a PN for a fellow on FB so I could link him to it, it is the manifold heater/temp gauge/throttle body heat fitting. It might show up in the HVAC stuff, it isn't in the cooling system. He broke the 5/16" nipple for the throttle body heat off. Second, in your F O R D section, 1985, Sterling 10.25" rear axle introduced for pickups, cab and chassis retained the Dana. 10.25" track for DRW was increased allowing for a "normal" bed floor (50" between inner fenders). This made the 1985-1986 DRW bed unique to those years. A later bed will fit, but the tail lights are different as is the rear corner styling and the tailgate uses larger pivots (not a real issue) and (big issue) a completely different latch system. DRW fender styling, but not size and mounting also changed in 1987.

That was where I was going to send him, I do that frequently. I looked first and didn't see it then. Gee, notice that the oil filter threaded piece was a B8A PN? First application would have been on the FE engine introduced for the 1958 model year. I'm glad things have cooled off a bit in Nicaragua so hopefully things will settle down and everyone can get back to some semblense of normalcy.

Gary, when you get a chance, in the 385 engine parts, if it isn't there already, could you add the oil filter adapter, block insert, bolt etc. for up to the early 1990 like you did part of for me on FTE. I have the O-ring PNs for the adapter to block and under the bolt head for the 1988/ adapter. I do not have the number for the gasket (hard washer) under the bolt head for 1983-87. I had a fellow in the 429/460 group on FB looking for the block insert. Thanks!

Gary, the camber bushings, the ones the upper ball joints go into, if installed wrong can cause the negative camber. The F250 (twin to Jim's truck except with A/C) had a problem on the left front, it was visibly in at the top like the pictured truck. When I did the described alignment tests and looked, the camber bushing I think said 4° on it, and was turned with the wider side toward the wheel. I turned it around, primarily to see if we could get an idea what bushing I would need to get for it. After reversing it and reassembling everything, recheck was dead vertical, toe, that's another story, it was about 1/4" toed in which explained the comment "When I stop on the roads (dirt, it was a BSA camp truck) I see two little piles of dirt at the front tires." After I finished we went out on the paved roads and centered on the crown, Dan (the camp ranger) took his hands off the wheel and the truck stayed straight as an arrow, before it would have headed for the ditch on the right side.

Biggest thing, if his tires are wider than stock, it can shift the contact patch center out slightly causing two issues, camber problems and bump steer. His Rough Country lift could be part of the problem too if the inner pivot to spring pad relationship (drop in relation to the frame) isn't the same as before the lift was installed. The last and also a good possibility, his springs could be sagged a bit. I don't know if they are part of the lift kit or not since I (a) do not own a 4WD and (b) if I did, the 1986 F350 came with a live axle, probably a Dana 60 according to your information posted in the 4WD suspension section. Fell free to maybe copy and paste the alignment information in the technical area.

3 of the stock older Holley 1940s worked very well in the past. They are a nice dual pontoon float design that was a service carb. for replacing the Autolite 1100. We used to put a setup on the old integral manifold Falcon/Comet in-lines, used 3 stock carbs, center was primary and ends were progressive.

MP470 asked about it and I posted a bunch of values in the thread.

First check the ride height, if it is correct, and you do not have oversize tires, then on the upper ball joint there are camber bushings, they are used to adjust both caster and camber. A friend who owns an alignment shop told me how the check and set the camber using a level. A. Park the truck on a level paved surface, driveway, garage floor etc. drive it back and forth to allow the suspension to settle. B. Find two matched pieces of wood, 2X4 is good about 3-4" long. C. Put one at the bottom outside of the rim, the other at the top and put the level against them using the vertical direction bubble to see how far off you are. D. Jack up the side you checked, remove the wheel and take off the nut on the upper ball joint, under there are the bushings, probably two, one inside the other. E. Pry down on the spindle housing and smack the axle end with a large hammer, one or two good whacks should break the ball joint loose from the bushings. F. Carefully remove them paying attention to how they were installed and look for the markings on them. If the wider side is out, try turning it 180° and reinstalling it. G. Reassemble everything, and repeat steps A through C to see if it helped. Once this is complete, the toe in may need adjusting.

I have had them on for a while, both came off a 1994 truck at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. I had to cut the lower a little for the oil cooler hoses. Lower air baffle

Exactly, they along with the lower and small upper piece that seals the top of the core support to the radiator are to funnel air through the center and help keep the hot air from bleeding over to the air inlet in traffic and sitting with the engine running.

Finally had some time to install the side air deflectors Jim brought me of the 1995 F450. Since it was an Aeronose and I have the 1990 front end on Darth there were two issues. First, no holes in the core support for the core support for the clips and second they were too wide front to back as the Aeronose grille apparently is about 1 to 1 1/2 inches further away from the core support. Right side

Ok, you are referring to the molded ones like the Duraspark system uses. In the Motorcraft connector catalog, quick look, WPT-350 is a female 3 cavity connector like the DS-II uses, WPT-601 looks exactly like I remember mine using.

Ditto on many salvaged in excellent condition pieces. I also have the spade connectors for the non-molded male/female connectors. I can get those numbers and pictures if needed. Many of the round pin male and female are used both inside the cab and on the chassis and the interior ones are usually in much better condition and were used on other vehicles than trucks. Ford continued using some of these into the mid to late 90s and possibly longer. If the wire insulation has started to disintegrate, the pigtails will probably be your best bet and the splice kits Ford provides with the kits are terrific and weatherproof once the sleeve is heated to seal the repair.

I never did them that way, but the 45 mph kickdown test sounds about right. Biggest thing is too many turns in and it will "hunt" between 3 and 4, too far out and it will shift early, but slip and burn up. FWIW, properly adjusted the 2-3 shift will be a little firm at part throttle since you go into a direct mechanical connection from engine to driveshaft. Those of us old enough to have worked on and maybe even owned a GM Roto-Hydramatic AKA Slim Jim know the feeling, only on those it was the 1-2 shift where it went straight mechanical connection albeit through the gearset.

Ok, first item, the AOD acts like a manual transmission in 3rd and somewhat like one in 4th. In 3rd there is a shaft in the input that goes into a damper spring cushion in the front of the torque converter, this directly connected to the engine. This shaft goes through the hollow turbine shaft and into the direct clutch. This directly connects the crankshaft to the output shaft, just like 3rd in an SROD manual transmission. As a result there is no "cushioning" of engine irregularities just like with a manual transmission. In 4th, the direct clutch stays on, but the forward clutch (the one that drives a C4 or C6 and even an E4OD in the forward gears) is released and the OD band (which looks like it should be 2nd gear) holds the drum making the gear set overdrive the output shaft at I think 0.7:1. It is a fairly compact transmission as it was designed to roughly fit where a C4 or FMX went. It was offered in cars behind the 351W. I will see if I can find some power flow diagrams and post them.

Vinny, my son and I went through this issue with his 1986 F150, 5.0L EFI. He had purchased an aftermarket TPS and he was having idle surging, EGR solenoids chattering like magpies, two or three cold starts before it would stay running. What we found was, with the idle set to spec with the IAC unplugged we had 1.15 volts from the TPS at closed throttle. I had a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the 5.0L and had problems with it. There is a Ford TSB and modification kit and in it with the parts are instructions for setting the throttle for the 1.0V nominal and using the bypass screws in the kit to get the required 650 +/- 50 RPM with the IAC disconnected. On the early systems, the EGR "open" point was at 1.10 V TPS signal so in my son's case the computer thought the throttle was opened enough for the EGR, EGR would open, RPM would drop, EGR vent would close the EGR, RPM would go up, EGR would re-open etc. My EEC-V system and from what I have been told, later EEC-IV computers use the ign on TPS signal value as base for closed throttle unless it is way off.

Vinny, if it is a 1985.5 or 1986 the screw is adjusted for as close to 1.0 volts at closed throttle as possible, much more and it starts trying to open the EGR valve.

First, a Haynes manual is not that accurate, second the EGR valve as it opens pushes the plunger into the sensor. If the plunger is too long the computer will see a signal that is too high and will set the code. If you want to find the amount to trim off, just loosen the sensor until the code goes away, then file that much off the plunger.

A friend and I used to file the plungers on the EVP sensors when you could not get the code to go away. Worked great on a lot of them.

Understood on that, I have no problem with family coming first.

Gary, once you are back in a powder coating mode, I have spare late lower plenum and a fairly clean Chrysler "turbo" valve cover.

Yes, I used a long breaker bar and a "cheater" to break them loose on Darth.

Jim, that actually looks like I saw on Darth's engine when I swapped heads, the 4 outer bolts next to the exhaust ports get hot enough to "coke" any oil on the bolts. If I remember correctly the two end inboard bolts have the oil return holes there and get pretty sludged up.

Gary, the two screw is the updated design and the regulator mounting screws are accessible from above. If I needed to replace one I would want it that way. I will probably after looking at these use the later rail on the new engine.