85lebaront2

Gary, on the engine ratings from 1983, first you would probably need to look at the emission parts list, break it down to PNs of everything that could affect the power curve then the specs on them, like carb jetting/metering rod and distributor advance curve. On the 460, it was a "oh shit, we need it back" deal for Ford so it may just have been a quick copy type deal.

Then the discussion turned to cams. I know he thinks the Edelbrock cam is "poo", so I asked him what he thought I should have: So I told him that once I get the engine torn down and determine the pistons used as well as the deck height, and therefore the compression ratio, I'll get back with him and we will finalize the cam. Compression Ratio: Speaking of the probable compression ratio, I had been assuming that it has quite a bit since it requires 91 octane to keep from pinging, and even then I have to pull the vacuum advance or it'll ping when pulling a heavy trailer. But, I now think that what I have is a distributor set up for EGR and yet I'm not running EGR. I say that because it fits both the experienced pinging as well as the fact that Vernon's engine builder didn't know what he was doing. So, I'm sure he slapped the non-EGR intake on w/o regard to the changes needed in the timing. So the spark is coming in way too soon, and that probably has something to do with the spots showing up on the spark plugs. Bill - How hard is it going to be to create a timing curve in the ECU that works w/o EGR? Heads: Huck, the 1990 F250, came with 1993+ F3 heads. From my reading those are very good heads, and while they could be improved with porting they flow well for low-end torque, which is what I'm looking for. So I'm taking them to Eric Weingartner tomorrow. Eric no longer ports cast iron, but he will go through the heads completely. And, I'll ask him to install the Comp 926 springs that Scott says I'll need. Plus, I want to get his take on cams. Gary, there are various tables in the spark control for the running conditions. There is not, from what I remember, a direct correlation between manifold vacuum and advance like you have in a conventional system. Since the MAF control does not measure the manifold vacuum it uses an alogrithm to develop an "inferred" value. On the heads, I should have probably gotten with Scotty AKA "the mad porter" for exhaust side recommendations on mine as that is still the weak area. You posted the stock HP and torque ratings for the 351M and 400 the other day, the 400's torque peak didn't really surprise me, that 3.98" stroke helps a lot and Ford usually tried for torque in their larger engines, the old MEL 430 comes to mind. I think the 1958 430 was 375 HP @ 4600 and 490 ft-lbs @ 3100.

Yep, that's no typo - 1600 RPM. Anyway, the facts from Ford seemed to settle the discussion, and I think it would be good to have all the info like that I can gather in one spot. Thoughts? Just like the 240 and 300 are basically the same engine, and the 429 and 460, or go back further, 352, 360, and 390 along with 332, 406, 410, 427 and 428 (on those, with the exception of the 332 and side oilers, the blocks all have "352" cast on the front.

The 351W will also have 2 ribs from the block behind the timing cover going up toward the intake manifold front area. Yes, the damn French ignition system is the easiest solution but I recommend using a relay to feed it because of the current draw, it also makes sure the resistance wire is bypassed.

Gary, his ignition system on the truck is a TFI-IV unit as was normally used on EFI engines complete with the E-core coil. It makes me wonder if it is indeed a 351 (1981 should have been a 351M, not W) or in fact a 302.

Plugs look a bit puzzling, 1 and 3 are a little dark as are 7 and 8, 6 looks lean electrodes look like they have been a little hot. I would say drop a heat range on the plugs to a ASF 32 plug then see what they look like. Question, are both advance parts working correctly, mechanical not coming in way fast and vacuum not leaking or sticking? If I could get a solid 10 with a C6 and 6400 lbs of dual rear wheel truck, 11.2 with a 4 speed (less loss) even with the 4WD crap is a bit disappointing. I would definitely check the distributor advance, if you have an adjustable timing light it can be done in the engine. On the insulation, I think it is dynamat if I remember correctly. If the plugs had been 1,4,5,6 or 2,3,7,8 dark, I would have said check your rods, jets and float levels on an AFB. Do you know which is the bad cylinder? Depending on the reason that might also explain some of the plug coloring.

I did a bit to Darth when I redid the interior. A friend had just finished insulating his house in Charlotte County VA and asked if I wanted the leftover insulation. That and the later door panels have an insulation pad in them. With the newer weatherstrip and new strikers on the doors, much quieter. Other benefit was the reduction in heat from the exhaust coming into the cab. Left side front

I had a 1987 F150 of a good friend for a while to solve a number of running issues. One of the things I did was run it up till the EGR opened, then tap on the body of the valve with it partially open, got all kinds of strange noises and reactions as the crap in it broke loose. After that I did a thorough throttle body and IAC cleaning. Truck ran like a new one after that.

Congratulations sir!

I guess a couple of things, I drove Darth to Newport News Thursday to pick up a 1991 Shadow transaxle to replace the one for the konvertible that got water in it. While I was there I was looking in the old Junkyard building and found a 1994 gas engine full gauge cluster with the "glass" broken. I asked Donnie what he wanted and he said "take it" I told him I will bring the 1995 F450 one next time I come. Today I installed the oil pressure and temperature gauge pair so I now have a working oil pressure gauge. As far as fuel economy, Darth hovers around 10 to as high as 12.5, before the EFI and E4OD, he got a solid 10. unless I was towing the 5th wheel, then it was more like 8.

Mine worked fine until I had to open it for a different reason (non-A/C) at which time I went ahead and converted it to R134a. It worked great as a conversion. I got a 1996 system from a rolled 1996 F150 and bought a later condenser as the one from the F150 was suspect and the later ones can't be cleaned.

So did the 3.8L Taurus and also RWD cars with that engine using a distributor. Even the DIS Mustangs had a similar setup.

Get the correct module for the Bronco tank, then everything should be correct.

You would need to lower the whole thing down.

My nice little cell phone borescope does quite well as does my older larger one for looking in the filler hole. I did that on the Chevstang to modify the Camaro pump and hanger so it sat deeper in the tank.

Ever since I went to EFI on Darth, rear tank takes just at 17 gals. from empty (quits pumping) front takes right at 19 if it quit on a level stretch, on a slope in either direction it will depend on what the angle was when it emptied the sump under the FPM. BTW, that one I have the sender where it is dead on. I need to drop the rear (loads of fun) and (a) check that the NAPA FPM is correct and reaching the bottom and (b) if it is trying to get the sender correct. Front FPM is a Spectra Premium unit bought when I was doing the EFI conversion.

Yes, rattle is gone, wind noise is down also. Pick-n-Pull was a success for three of us, I got a Chrysler 41TE transaxle and control box along with wiring for a later konvertible modification. My sort of son-in-law got a complete front and engine harness for an MAF 5.0L F150 to use on his 1989 when he installs a 1995 351W from a van he is scrapping and the custom built 4R70W Matt was planning on using in his 1986F150. My best friend, John Gleason got everything he needs to backdate the door latches and actuators on his 1995 dually. Our "guide" (Willie Chattman, who I need to get on here) scored some stuff for his Mazda B2300 pickup and some odds and ends for his 1985.5 F150 that he is working on getting back on the road.

Not today, but yesterday. I had bought 4 of the Dorman Help replacement strikers for Darth. I had previously installed the driver's door one as it was the worst. Yesterday I installed the other 3 to get the passenger front door rattle gone. I will find out tomorrow when I make a Pick-n-Pull run to Virginia Beach.

I am pretty sure it will be 5/16" as even my 460 had 5/16" fuel hose from the frame to the engine.

My 1966 GT350 had the original Ford VIN, 6R09Kxxxxxx stamped upside down on the right side of the block right behind the alternator. As for Darth, I haven't seen one nor did I see one on either of the other 460 blocks.

High pitched whine is usually caused by a gasket leaking. This can be due to a warped carburetor body, an improperly cleaned gasket surface, a warped PCV plate under the carb. Before you carry it somewhere, get some carburetor cleaner and spray it on the gasket areas. When you hit the right spot, the whine should at least change and the idle may smooth out for a bit as the cleaner is drawn in. Due to the large bolt pattern Ford uses the slightest lack of flatness will result in a leak since the carb mounting gasket and the EGR/PCV plate to intake can be quite thin.

Steve, I believe that is what I told you in an email last week. I have had a PMGR starter on Darth for probably 10 years.

Great!

Ok, here's the scoop. I know what was done, but I'm still not 100% sure why... There is a 250v/7a fuse in that holder, and the wire is a jumper between red/black wire that goes to the headlight, and a black/red wire that goes to the blower motor. The green/black wire that is also stripped goes to the headlight as well. I wonder if this was a homegrown method of creating daytime running lights? My truck has the low beam lights on all the time when the truck is running, even when the light switch is off. Presumably, they tapped into the green/black wire first only to find out it was the high beam, and then switched to the red/black which is the low beam? The black/red wire going to the blower motor, is it 12v+ all the time? From what I remember blower 12V feed is hot in run and accessory. It would work, but... Damn if I would have done it that way. The factory DRL system is kind of weird in it's own way.

Gary, everything I have read on the use of the wideband says it should ideally monitor the whole exhaust stream. One of the issues with many of the early computer systems was the O2 sensor only monitoring one bank of the engine, which in theory is fine because an FBC feeds two cylinders from each barrel as does a TBI. The early bank fired systems were the same way. What caused problems was the fact that the second bank was assumed to be running the same. We all know what that word gets you. This was the reason Ford moved the O2 sensors on V8 trucks to the H from the back of the right exhaust manifold in 1987. You now have a situation where a problem (leaking gasket, bad plug, injector issue either lean or rich) will now affect the other 7 to some extent as it is seeing the "average" mixture. Once engines were changed from either TBI or bank fired into sequential, it became feasible and needed to go to bank sensors where the ECA can, in it's programming, say the #5 cyl is a bit lean and increase the pulse width on #5 cyl only. This is where the fuel trim portion of the OBD-II system comes in, it allows "tweaking" of individual cylinders to correct errors. It can still be fooled by a leaking exhaust manifold gasket since under light load (cruise) air is actually drawn in and leans the stream to where the computer will increase fuel on the cyl with the gasket leak.