85lebaront2

Neither of us realized he was the king until we read it in the newspaper. He did not identify himself nor did any of his entourage. I think he wanted to be low key and just enjoy himself He was a huge fan of scouting having been a scout in his youth.

Damn, Matthew, I was one of the very first counselors for Auto Mechanics Merit Badge when it was first introduced. Glad he is learning! One of my son's went all the way to Eagle, the other got as far as Life, but did go to the 1989 Jamboree at Ft. A.P.Hill and to Philmont in 1990. When Lee Greenwood sang "God Bless The USA" Matt was close enough to reach out and touch him. He had the flag for his troop as he was quartermaster. A couple of Jamborees earlier, we had taken a group from our troop up for a visit, the Scoutmaster, Hansel (Doc) Price and I were walking through the merit badge midway and came up to a group of foreign scout leaders, who stopped and spoke with us commenting on our 50 year strips and low (15) unit number. They shook our hands and we went our respective ways. Later there was coverage of the king of Sweden visiting our jamboree, imagine our surprise when we saw his picture, I imagine the group with him, all in Swedish boy scout uniforms were probably his security detail.

Gary, depending on the application, the Thermactor pump was used to inject air into the exhaust stream to help eliminate unburned hydrocarbons. The first systems did just that, and if the air gulp or diverter valves malfunctioned could create one heck of a load backfire. The valves were even referred to as anti-backfire valves. Gary has seen the plumbers nightmare the last of the carbureted 460s had, two air pumps, one feeding 6 of the eight exhaust ports (the crossover ports were not fed so as not to interfere with the EGR system) the other fed all eight exhaust ports at the manifolds. Dual air pumps, dual diverter valves, three check valves, a lot of vacuum lines and some very nicely made air piping and a ton of hose clamps. Once catalytic converters were introduced it was found that due to the complexity of the exhaust makeup and the need to (a) complete oxidation of some components and (b) reduce other components the two part catalyst was used, the first part or first converter is a reducing converter and works in low oxygen conditions, the second catalyst or portion is the oxidizing part and needs a surplus of oxygen to function properly. Ford's systems on the trucks, particularly the EFI models, use air into the exhaust ports with the engine cold to (a) burn off the excess fuel in warm up mode and (b) help "light off" the converter. Once a temperature threshold is passed, the system changes the air delivery into the center of the dual bed converter. The oddball in the group is the EFI 460, early versions only used the pump to feed the center of the catalyst, later (1993-97) have air fed into the exhaust ports like the smaller engines, then to the center of the catalytic converter.

First, the firing order is determined by the cam, not the computer on the EEC-IV and V systems. (Yes, the computer can fire individual cylinders when you get to coil-on-plug ignitions, but not on these.) So the spark plug wiring order will come with the engine. As for higher flowing heads, that may be a problem. The issue is that the Speed Density systems have a table that tells the computer if the engine is spinning this fast and the air is this dense then it just ingested this much air. But if you change anything in the air inlet system the answer will be wrong. However, the computer is also sampling the air/fuel ratio and has some ability to trim the amount of fuel injected if it finds out that the AFR is lean due to more air than expected coming in. But I don't know if it has enough adjustment range to accommodate the higher-flowing heads. Perhaps someone else does? If you stay with the Speed Density system, it should adjust to the higher flow as the system uses two different control methods, first uses the O2 sensor(s) to adjust the mixture to the desired air/fuel ratio for best emission performance, the second is WOT control, this isn't necessarily full throttle, but is a point at which the computer says "hey, more fuel is needed" under this condition the system uses pre-programmed tables for fuel, spark advance etc. The two main inputs used are throttle opening and manifold absolute pressure. If the MAP signal stays low due to higher flow heads, intake and exhaust system, then the fuel will be delivered. If you go to a Mass Air Flow system two items of concern, first, the EEC-IV computers can not be reprogrammed, but an add on device, such as a TwEECer or Moates Quarter Horse will allow changes to be made, they modify the EECs programming by essentially replacing the EPROM with one in their board or attachment. This will allow a later computer with the 13726548 firing order to be used on an engine with the 15426378 firing order (I actually started on mine with that idea). An EEC-V (1996 up) can be reflashed using a laptop (maybe a tablet by now) and a pass-through cable that provides the 18V signal to put the computer in the flash mode. Core Tuning sells an excellent package and has some pretty good support. There are other companies that also do this. There are aftermarket sources for EFI systems, but many actually only build throttle body injection systems, which in my opinion are not as good as the factory units. One additional item, starting in 1990, Ford relocated the ignition module from the side of the distributor to the left rear of the inner fender getting it away from the engine heat. I highly recommend anyone doing upgrades to early EFI systems do that.

When they quoted you $700 for the carburetor rebuild, was everything going to be gold plated? Was he holding a 6 gun, because that is highway robbery. Even repairing the probably bad threads holding the throttle body to the float bowl and a few of the improvements I used to do on these, I would have to be charging in the neighborhood of $200/hr to justify that. I didn't even get near that on a 1951 Buick Carter WCD I did a while back for a customer in Utah, even the 1930 Dusenberg Shebler type S duplex was't in that price range!

Any idea what the firing order is or when it changed on the 302? I have figured out that it changed, but haven't figured out exactly when yet. I need to make sure if I do go with a newer style that I get one with the correct firing order to match how the injectors get fired from the computer and match my current distributor. Starting to wonder if I should just stay with an '86 block to avoid any little detail issues I'm unaware of..... Trucks changed in 1994 from 15426378 to 13726548 as long as you (a) run the wires correctly and (b) if you go to MAF/SEFI have the correct injector firing order, no problems. If you stick with Speed Density Bank Fired, it doesn't matter on the injectors.

Much better sir! I was actually able to find things in a logical fashion. This was using my desktop with 22" monitor.

Talk about nasty police chase cars, Norfolk VA PD had a Thunderbolt for a chase car in the mid 60s, you were not going to outrun the Holman & Moody 427 side oiler with dual 650 CFM Holleys.

Someone on here just completely rebuild a Flareside bed, hopefully either he will see these posts or Gary will connect you with him.

Welcome to our personal nut farm Joe! We are a nice, pretty close knit group and hopefully can help with any problems you may run into.

Ok, I don't know about the laws where you live, but where I am I can go with a newer engine or system but still only have to meet the requirements for my vehicle as built. To be more specific, if you look at my signature, I have a 1986 F350, originally built with a carbureted 460, that was non-catalyst, but used dual air pumps, EGR, a complex evaporative system and a very strange spark advance system. It is now running a California spec MAF/SEFI system, but even though it is OBD-II compliant, no catalyst, no misfire detector, only two O2 sensors and no air pump as it's sole function was to provide air to the catalytic converter. Because the original emission label says NON-CATALYST in 1/4" high black letters, I still do not need a catalytic converter. If you can go newer, at a minimum, I would go up to maybe a 1990/1991 system, you can still use your wiring harness with a couple of changes (see the pinouts page) and the EGR system is simpler (only one control valve). Everything else is pretty much the same, so a visual inspection will pass, only obvious real change is the O2 sensor, instead of being in the back of the right exhaust manifold, it moves under the truck to the exhaust pipe behind the Y so it samples both banks and is heated for faster light-off.

Ok, I just tried T2K-CAR, Freefind brought up a bit, Nabble brought up most of the posts here on the car. None went off-site.

Basically. I prefer a solid feel to my clutch, and I hope my F350 ends up feeling more solid than my Ranger because man do I hate the way my Ranger's clutch feels. Having had vehicles with mechanical linkage clutches (1964 Falcon w/260 V8, 1966 GT350 w/Cobra 289) hydraulic (1958 F100, 1961 Mercedes-Benz 220Sb, 1963 Jaguar E-type) and cable (1965 Corsa 140 hp, 1980 Omni 1.7L, 1986 Plymouth Turismo 2.2, 1987 Horizon) I have mixed feelings. Both the Falcon and the Shelby experienced failed Z-bars, in both cases one of the ends where the lever attached to the tube, the tube split on the tension side of the weld. The Corvairs were famous for snapping the ball off the front end of the cable (you have to see the way it was run to fully appreciate why it would break. Suffice it to say the ball did not swivel in the fork on the pedal and would fatigue fail the cable. Omni and Horizon (Turismo is a sporty Horizon) the cable worked well, but the self adjuster being plastic tended to "pop" and leave you with no clutch. The Hydraulic ones worked very well, but were prone to the same issues as brakes, water + brake fluid = rust. Of the three, I like the cable system the least, it is stiffer and has less "feel" to it. Hydraulic ones I had usually worked very reliably, mechanical, in good condition with all the little "bearings" in the linkage are great, but bad motor mounts will cause no end of problems. One item not addressed is the actual pressure plate design. There are three that Ford has used over the years, the Borg and Beck three finger coil spring apply design, The Long, three finger semi-centrifugal and various diaphragm spring styles. The advantages and disadvantages of the three: Borg and Beck style, advantage is high holding power and smooth action apply and release. Disadvantage is high load holding and releasing particularly in slow moving traffic. Long semi-centrifugal, lower spring pressure than Borg and Beck style, but clamping force increases with engine rpm. Disadvantage is similar to Borg and Beck, but easier to work due to the centrifugal portion of the clamping force. Adjustment is critical, Shelby clutch specified 3/4" freeplay at 5000 rpm, and it did decrease as the rpm climbed. Diaphragm, good clamping force, easiest to hold in as the diaphragm spring essentially goes "overcenter" as the clutch releases. Primary disadvantage, clamping force weakens as the disc wears so the more worn the clutch is, the greater likelihood of it slipping.

The real question is if the Nabble 36 are legit. As in my "Dad's Truck Build" example, the vast majority of the Nabble "finds" are just the name of the thread in the 562 posts. And I don't find that very helpful. So, are the 36 Nabble finds helpful? Are they different than the Freefind finds? I just tried "engine control systems" Freefind found less then Nabble, but all were pretty specific to the forum and documentation ares, Nabble brought up every thread where anything remotely connected showed up. I believe either will work, it seems to be what your preference is.

Good question, either bent or a poorly ground section on the base circle of one or more lobes. As for the Lima in cars, it looks as though Ford made the decision to no longer use that family in cars starting when the block was redesigned for 1979 up usage, at that time the blocks were being built for truck use the include the HD engines (370 & 429). Those engines are as different from the lighter duty versions as the FT family is from the FEs.

Actually, Jim, I believe that last Lima in a car was the 1978 Lincoln Continental (big 4dr luxo barge) my department manager at NNS had a 1979, same big tank, with a 400 in it, it did everything bat either bark or oink when you stood on it. It also got abysmal gas mileage. That and previous experience with a 351M soured me on those engines for good. When I could take a 1977 F150, 390 and 3.25 rear and pull 16-17 mpg highway, 12-14 in town, and that Lincoln struggled to get 12 highway and more like 8 in town. I put a remanufactured engine in it for him, which had a mystery misfire, finally found it was a bent cam.

Older engines have the dipstick in the pan; newer is in the block, including 351W/5.8L. Oh, really, older 460s (up through 1979) have the dipstick in the timing cover unless they were 4WD. 1983 up 460s have the dipstick in the pan. screw in fitting through 1987, press in 1988-1993? Then in a tube in the side of the pan with an O-ring and hairpin clip.

Sounds ok to me, maybe we will be able to find the engine controls now?

Ok, AOD transmission is a straight through mechanical connection in drive (3rd gear) If it feels like it is lugging, it may well be. From what I remember on my son's 1986 F150 with a 302, it wasn't super happy at 25 in 3rd. Are the transmission shifts very hard (firm) or just a nice solid shift at part throttle? Are they maybe a bit soft, feel like they are slipping particularly into 3 or 4? These transmissions are super sensitive to throttle cable adjustments, not the one to the carburetor, but the one to the transmission. I know these were only used briefly on the six due to it's torque, the later trucks actually got the E4OD on everything except the 302. Some 302s had E4ODs, notably 4WD models.

Disconnecting the SPOUT simply locks the timing at the static setting, if you look at it once you plug the SPOUT back in, you will see the timing jumps sharply to the advance side (mine at 10° BTDC SPOUT unplugged, will go to 20 - 25° BTDC when reconnected. As a result, the engine slows down and in your case since it is carbureted the mixture gets a little off. One important item to look at on the carburetor, with the air cleaner off, grab the top of the carburetor and try to move it, it should be solid, if it moves, look a the throttle body the float bowl area, if the bowl is moving on the throttle body, it will (a) destroy the gasket (b) cause mixture issues and © give accelerator pump problems.

Pretty much correct, there is the oddball 4165 that is designed on a Quadrajet bolt pattern and can be a double pumper or vacuum secondary. Then you have the 3160 3 barrel and the 4500 Dominator. The metering blocks allow easy jetting changes on the main circuit, but the original design did not have any provision to change the idle and transition jetting, The metering body allows the main and low speed circuits to be changed (The Holley catalog I had at Preston had probably 60 or 70 different metering body PNs so you could tailor the jetting to what was needed. Two of Holley's most popular performance carbs started out as OEM applications, The R-1850 600 CFM was an OEM application for a 1958 Lincoln 430, the R-3310 was an OEM application for a 1965 Chevrolet 396 - 425 hp engine. Both have been updated and "improved".

Jim, the 4150 Holley carburetor model has two metering blocks and was the original design in 1957 replacing the 4000. The 4160 has one metering block and a metering body for the secondary. The Double Pumper high performance carburetors are based on the 4150 architecture, but with what are essentially two primary bowls with the inlets on the opposite sides so fuel can be fed to them from the right side of the engine. The 4180 is an emission compliant design for Ford engines and is based on the 4160 architecture. Both the 4180 and the Chrysler specific 4160s can be problematic due to the design compromises needed for emission compliance.

When I switched the bed on mine I was going to use the newer (1987 up) filler necks to go with the 1990 tanks. Every gas engined dually at Pete's had the filler hoses cut so the yard crew could siphon gas out to run the yard trucks and forklifts. I ended up getting the set from a 1996 Diesel, which is fine with me as they vent better. End result, Darth has screw in caps with little lanyards to keep them from getting lost.

Plan is to have it out this week and redo the leak down test so I can make a decision.... Certainly seems less expensive to buy a re-manufactured long block that it is to have mine re-built. At the same time it would be the perfect opportunity to upgrade....except I have EFI and emissions crud to deal with. I cannot afford to upgrade the EFI right now so my only thought is to put in a long block from a newer model with better heads so at least I have a little better start for something later if I decide to upgrade. Question is....which year/model long block would be best in stock form? I have plenty of research to do. For truck engines, I would go 1994 or newer, the 1994 models had MAF/SEFI on automatics and roller cams on all.

Here is Darth's after I reinstalled it. It had to be removed for the windshield replacement: