85lebaront2

They are stamped out in the same plant I will lay you odds.

Ok, interesting, my Sig Erson cam is 292 and 310, or 214 and 226 @ .050 tappet lift, 114+4 listed as lobe separation. Lift is 0.517 intake and 0.536 exhaust. We called Erson and he asked how much tuneabilty I had using the MAF system compared to the SD system. The builder set the lifter position with the Ford racing shims. My rockers are Scorpion 1.73 ratio.

Gee, I have a pair of those, look just like that, I wonder where they came from?

EEC-V started in part with the 1994.5 Powerstroke, light duty trucks E/F150 and some 250s under 8500 GVW all went to EEC-V in 1996, 1995 will still be EEC-IV, but have the CCD TFI system. Transmissions, a very few 300s were built early in the AOD's run with them, just like they came with C4s until Ford figured out the torque of a 300 coupled with what a lot of people bought them for, the heavier transmissions were needed, so C6 and later E4ODs were put behind them. The 4R100, is an improved E4OD and was introduced mid 1998 on the 5.4L new body F250s which were a slightly beefed up F150 with 7 bolt rims and a number of other oddities. This was done because the Powerstroke would not fit under the hood of the new body (sort of like the Bullnose not being available with the 460 at first).

I really wouldn't fret about the transition slot, but, if you have a nice set of calipers that include a depth gauge slide, you can measure the distance from the base to the end of the slot then from the base to the throttle plate edge to get the difference. On pre-emission carburetors it was actually above the throttle plate, hence the term "transition slot". It's function was to allow fuel from the idle circuit that was not adjusted by the mixture screws into the air stream to help in the transition to the main fuel feed from the booster venturii. When the first emission systems were introduced (1966 in CA, 1968 49 state) one of the methods used was to retard the initial timing, which (a) required more throttle opening and (b) allow a leaner idle mixture. Each of the "big three" used different approaches, and in GM's case, each division was different. The two primary approaches were either air injection or engine modification. Ford used a combination, automatic transmission vehicles got the engine modification, manual transmissions got air injection. The retarded initial timing and resulting increased throttle opening meant the engines were idling with the transition slots uncovered, this essentially converted the old idle mixture screws into mixture trim screws and on many carburetors you could turn them out to the point of falling out and never get the mixture too rich. The other nasty trick that Holley pulled, the idle mixture screws were actually air bleed screws that worked backwards, in for rich, out for lean. This was done to comply with CARB and EPA regulations.

This was probably a carbureted 454, the Quadrajets on those typically were into the secondaries at any kind of speed under load. The TBI engines weren't much better. If yours is the Vortec with the nice long runner intake, it is one of the things I wish Ford had done with the 460 EFI engines. Only bad thing is the injector location, inside the "tunnel" the upper half of the intake forms. I had to work on one of them a number of years ago, 7 of the 8 injectors were leaking.

Much the same, when I first got Darth he had an aftermarket DSII module, when I went to get him inspected, he wouldn't start after I shut him off, shop had one he had pulled from a wreck, plugged it in and everything was fine. I took to carrying a spare. A number of years later, going up 7 mountains grade on Rt 322W from Harrisburg PA, I got a sudden misfire, tach dropped and the engine quit. I quickly plugged in the spare and continued on. Interesting side note, while we were checking in to the campout, another man came up and asked what kind of speed I had climbing that stretch (he had a twin to our trailer) I told him 22 mph in 2nd, he did a double take asked what gear I had. His Chevy crew cab DRW with a 454 and 4:10 gear was in 1st at roughly 20 mph, if he tried letting it shift to 2nd, it slowed down. That was when I learned that a 454 in addition to single digit fuel "economy" had no power compared to a 460.

Probably his brother

You should have experienced my 66 Shelby, in cold weather I would deliberately drive it about 3 or 4 blocks with the parking brake on to heat of those 10 X 2 1/2 metallic rear brakes. They were designed for high heat and lack of it = little or no rear brakes in the cold (say 20° F).

I agree with what Gary said, the DSII factory and good aftermarket modules do retard the ignition when cranking, that is the reason for the R/LB input to the white wire (circuit 32) He is probably thinking that the lack of the R/LB wire on the DSII modules deleted the cranking retard. I personally do not know who he is or what experience he has, but, I owned a carburetor and ignition shop until Nov 1978, and have worked on damn near every ignition system that comes into this country or was manufactured here. As I pointed out, if you want to put a Chinese copy of a GM ignition on your truck, that is your prerogative, I was pointing out the fact that those units get their hot spark by using a ton of current. As far as adjusting dwell by rpm he is correct, it does not have a crank retard to my knowledge unless it is rpm controlled like my 1972 Craftsman 10HP engine with electronic ignition, or like the infamous Chrysler Lean Burn, that had two pickups in the distributor, one used for starting the other for running. As for coils, I have never tried a TFI coil on a DSII, but have seen what a high output coil does to a Chrysler module, it cooked it in roughly 30 mins of running. There are probably some aftermarket higher output coils that are compatible with the DSII, He is full of it on the DSI, it was introduced on Ford products starting in 1974, possibly in CA where the 460 engines had Thermoquads. I have never tried to experiment with using an HEI module on a heat sink and triggering it with the DSI/DSII distributor, if it will work (needs a good heat sink) it will most likely run the TFI coil as it is very similar in characteristics to the external coil HEI used on some GM engines where the monster cap would not clear. I actually had a Chevy 2.8L HEI distributor built with a Corvair drive and lower housing as it looks almost like the early Corvair distributor, this used a external coil and needed a relay to power it from the battery due to the length of the power feed on a Corvair.

Gary, it needs to emulate the EEC feed, W/lb and R/LG wires both need to be connected to the relay. The diagram as you have it may "drop out" the relay when cranking. The ignition wiring on these was a solution to providing a solid battery voltage feed under cranking and running for the EEC, or to provide a coil resistor for the DSII system.

It seems like a straight forward, almost plug and play swap. I remember reading some where (ill check when I'm ready) about a company that has distributors ready to go. Looks like the harness is available as NOS or as aftermarket from painless, coil and the GM HEI. Ford built the 1985 and 1986 front chassis harness to be able to accommodate several systems, the plain DSII system, a feedback carburetor system or EFI on the 5.0L engines if you look at the left side wiring harness you will see several plugs, some of which seem to make no sense. The DSI and DSII systems along with the computer controlled DSIII require a ballast resistor in the coil feed. This is bypassed during cranking for a stronger spark with the resulting lower system voltage. Ford started some time in the 60s doing away with the resistor block next to the coil and replaced it with a resistance wire, older vehicles had it as a plug in piece in the dash harness. The extra small terminal on the starter relay, the one with a I is the resistor bypass wire on these. On the 1985/86 trucks, if you examine the ignition circuits you will see a resistance wire between terminals 11 and 12 of the ignition switch. Terminal 11 is hot in run, terminal 12 is hot in start. When the engine is cranked the R/LG ignition feed is powered through the resistance wire from the BR/PK wire from terminal 12 of the ignition switch, this powers the + side of the coil though connector C325 and through the resistance wire the W/LB wire to the R DSII wire. The diagram shows 3 wires to connector C321 (3 pin) on the DSII module, I believe that only 2 are used if I remember correctly, the R/LB to the W and the W/LB to the R, I do not remember a R/LB to a R/LB as it shows. Once the engine starts, and the key is released the coil is still fed by a R/LG wire, but through the resistance wire, the DSII is now receiving full 12V from the W/LB wire to the R wire. C323 on the DSII is the distributor pickup, system ground and ignition coil -. On the EEC engines, the W/LB and the R/LG wire are connected together in the EEC harness which plugs into C321 and C325, this way the TFI ignition always gets full battery voltage as the resistor is simply bypassed during cranking and running. In order to install a DSII on your truck, you need a DSII module and the distributor and the wiring from the distributor to the DSII module. If you insist on listening to the HEI crowd, to make it really work properly it needs a #10 wire that can be fed from the battery with a relay as the HEI is a current hog. This can be done using the wiring from the EEC/TFI feed that tie the W/LB and R/LG wires together and use them to turn on the relay, and if you are so inclined, use a late model oil pressure indicator switch (closed with pressure) to ground the relay, that way if you lose oil pressure, either from a failure or engine stall, the ignition feed to the HEI is cut off.

I will get back to you on this thread later, I have to take advantage of a reasonably warm day and get some things done.

I haven't put any of that on yet, I wanted to finish the engine harness on the extra lower intake then do all of it at once.

Gary, I think I remember the 240/300 have an aluminum cam gear. I do know that just like the brand C in-lines, they are gear drive not chain driven. A missing tooth on those usually ends up being several and no more cam rotation. FWIW, my second pickup was a 1977 F150, one of the chemists I worked with had a near twin, a 1977 F100, both trucks had the 300 and automatic. Mine had a 3.25 rear, I don't know what his had. I could consistently get 14 mpg in town and 17-18 highway, he was lucky to get 8-10 in town and maybe 12 highway. Difference, mine had a PCV valve and evaporative canister, his had EGR, and a catalytic converter. No feedback carbs in those days. If his is an EEC-IV system, there should be a test connector underhood, and hopefully a working MIL light. If so there is a manual way to extract the codes if he doesn't access to a good older scan tool, parts store ones usually are all OBD-II units. The system may be in a "limp" mode due to something not being right. Quick check, after checking the timing with the SPOUT connector or jumper unplugged, reconnect it and see if the timing jumps to more advance, then rev the engine and see what the timing does. One other item, O2 sensor, on these it is a one wire (no heater) and is in the exhaust manifold just above the exhaust pipe flange and can be a bear to change, possibly even will strip the threads upon removal. When was it last replaced?

You did mine in an aluminum powder, same as the intake and plenum.

Welcome Scotty, I have spoken with you on the 460 groups in the past. Glad to have your knowledge and expertise on here.

Gary, I have been putting my head gaskets on dry for years, ever since Fel-Pro released their "Permatorque" ones. The exception was the MG Midget 998 cc engine, it was real hard to keep a good seal at 11:1 compression on an engine designed in England for 8:1 compression. 9 head bolts in essentially an isosceles triangle (5 down the outside straddling the plug areas and 4 down the inside through the rocker stands). Cylinders are paired 1-2 and 3-4 with a wider space between 2-3 due to being a 3 main bearing block. He had what were supposed to be high strength studs and nuts, no, they were the stock late 1950s British fine thread nuts and studs ARP studs and nuts helped immensely.

That's part of the reason for the RTV, if you let it cure partially, it will stay in place as you snug the manifold. I usually take all the bolts down finger tight, then slowly alternately work on the center and checking the ends to be sure it is even as it seats. Once it is evenly seated, then start torquing in sequence.

OK, this is good to know! Thank you sir! So the throttle plates stop just by closing in the barrels then? The reason I started looking so closely at the fast idle cam is that it is nice and loose and moving freely until I back the idle speed screw all the way out. With the idle speed screw all the way out, there is a little drag on the fast idle cam stop screw. It looks like it could be loosened just a little bit. And, on the intake gaskets. Do you guys put a little RTV around the coolant ports or install them dry? I put a very thin film, you do not want to block the weep channel around the water passage, this lets any leakage go out rather than down inside the engine.

Are they US made or Chinese? Mine has ARP 255-3701 head bolts, 155-603 rob bolts and 155-2005 intake bolt kit in it.

You should back it off so it is no longer stopping the throttle from fully closing, basically with the main stop screw backed out, loosen the fast idle until the cam will move with no drag, then make sure the main idle stop is still not touching. Don't feel to bad, years ago, one of our local Ford dealers bought Autolite replacement carbs from us, one of their "mechanics" would set the idle so rich that the engines would lope with the choke on. At this point they would bring the car to Preston saying the carburetor wasn't right. I finally put the limiter caps on the mixture screws, 2 weeks later they wanted a new carburetor because that one "wouldn't adjust". I have seen intake gasket leaks on the old FE engines that were inside the valve covers, pulling oil in, dead miss on #3 & 4 and if you sealed the PCV and inlet, after the vacuum stabilized it idled pretty nicely. When you get ready to fix the gasket, get some long 5/16-18 bolts (4) cut the heads off and taper the cut end slightly and cut a slot for a screwdriver. Install the side gaskets being sure to hook the tabs on the ends to the head gasket tabs, put the 4 long studs in the corners as guides. I personally do not use the end seals, just a good bead of RTV on each end. Lower the manifold over the corner guides and start the other bolts, begin tightening them in sequence till you get to the corner ones, remove the guides and install and tighten them in sequence.

I would definitely get new head bolts, on the intake, you have one special bolt, left side back of the two vertical bolts in the center (where the crossover is on a carbureted engine) It has a 5/16-18 stud on top of the 9/16" hex. This is where the coil and vacuum solenoids mount. The other item, the 4 corner fasteners on the intake are originally studs with flanged nuts, I imagine Ford did this to facilitate manifold installation on the assembly line. On the water pump, the truck engines have three different length bolts, I believe I may have sent you the pictures with length and locations, but if not I will. Mine has ARP bolts pretty well everywhere except the exhaust manifolds and motor mounts.

Gary, a quick FYI on the cover. When I did the 10.25" for my friend, I glued the gasket to the cover with weather strip adhesive, then ran a film of grease around the axle center so the cover is sealed, but can be removed easily if needed. BTW, he sandblasted the cover, outside, and left the rusty inside alone. I spent about an hour with a wire brush on it.

I sanded the areas, washed it with lacquer thinner and primed it with a rust preventing primer, then the color and clear coat.