85lebaront2

Damn, that's almost as bad as what I had a number of years ago. Apparently in driving through some flooded areas after Hurricane Floyd, water got into the left rear wheel bearings. That fall on his way to the Vietnam Veterans Haunted Forest in Norfolk VA, the left duals locked up on my son, followed by some screeching from there. When I got the truck home and removed the left side wheels, and brake drum I could see evidence of a lot of heat on the inner part of the hub. Once I got it off I found the inner bearing was pretty well destroyed and had actually spun on the axle tube. My supervisor at work had been an apprentice millwright, he stopped by and looked at and the next day set me up with the correct tools and supplies needed to hand work it in place. Other then needing a new seal every year as it would seep enough to fail VA state inspection, I ran it that way until I switched the entire assembly after building a 3.55 limited slip replacement.

The setup our BSA camp had was a commercial dishwasher, it ran a powerful blast of hot soapy water followed by a rinse at 180° F. The humorous part of it, being automated, the kids had to cycle it until the rinse temperature reached 180°, then they could start washing the dishes, serving trays etc. As built the safety switch to keep the cycle from starting until the linked in-out doors were both shut protruded into the back side of the out door opening. Three guesses what happened. I got up there one weekend with my late wife to serve as campmasters, Dan Daughtry, the camp Ranger and I were riding around when he mentioned the problem. In order to run the dishwasher it was necessary after closing the doors, to hold the proximity sensor next to the magnet to get it to cycle and keep it there until it finished. I took some measurements and we went back to the shop area and fabricated a right angle bracket for the sensor that mounted it back away from the opening and another one for the magnet. Dan and I tested it to make sure that (a) it worked reliably and (b) if the door was opened enough to be a problem it shut down. They ran it that way all summer without any problems. The next spring when the Hobart Dealer service rep came to check everything, he looked at the modification and asked why and who did it. Dan explained and the rep looked at the drawings of the unit as built and shook his head, he took a bunch of measurements and pictures and left, about 3 weeks later Dan received a package from Hobart, in it was a nice stainless steel (mine was wood, aluminum and steel screws) "safety switch relocation kit". When I went through BSA Woodbadge AIDS was the big concern, what we were told to do was add some Clorox to the rinse water as the temperature limit for sticking your hands in holding a dish, utensil or pan isn't high enough to be sure of disinfecting them.

Gary, if the Ford number is there it looks to be partially concealed by the clamp. It looks like it is F5TE which would be correct for the part ID number.

Gary, Ford has 3 different hoses listed from 1991-1997, first is F1TZ-B for 1991 only, then F2TZ-D for 1992-94 and finally F5TZ-A which is probably what I have on Darth, it was pulled off a 1995 F250 at Pik-n-Pull in VB. I can verify if there is a number on it tomorrow.

Gary, the 1985/86 EFI is a bit different in the way the TPS effects the system. On these the closed throttle voltage is what determines the idle stop setting, starting in 1987 it is a IAC closed rpm and the EEC uses the voltage measured at startup as closed throttle (why it is not good to open the throttle when starting). If the voltage is a bit too high, the EEC will open the EGR vacuum valve and then try to balance things resulting in a surging idle and chattering solenoid valves. There is a thread Matt posted on FTE on this issue, his was caused by an aftermarket TPS that would not come low enough on the voltage to make the EEC happy.

Most cars with boxer engines recommend removing the engine for major work.

First I will address the blue wire, it is a "priming" wire and goes to the NC side of the fuel pump relay. It's purpose is to power the selected fuel pump when cranking to fill the float bowls. I used to cheat when Darth still had the carburetor, if he had been sitting for a while, I would open the hood, take the blue wire off it's terminal and touch it to the battery side of the starter relay, I would listen for the change in sound of the fuel flow indicating the float bowls were full. Wiring, I am using the 1995 battery cable set Jim salvaged for me, it uses the standard Ford starter relay, but it only powers the starter solenoid on the factory PMGR starter (I refuse to pay an exorbitant price for a starter when Ford has a perfectly good one). I have been using this setup since my son sourced me a late model PMGR starter probably 20 years ago after the original 1986 Ford moveable pole piece one died. I did have to replace it about a year ago, and was able to obtain another Precision Certi-Pro one locally. Pasco out of Salisbury MD bought the Precision line when they went out of business.

Jim, just pray she doesn't do what a woman who did the same thing to my late wife did, swear she was stopped and Karen ran into her. She had started to go through a stop sign and oncoming traffic changed he mind. Unfortunately it was leaving a mall parking lot so no police.

Gary, it's weird stuff like that why I will never have another Subaru. Every water cooled boxer engine I have worked on, up to and including a Ferrari Testa Rosa (recent model not the original) has been a royal PITA, Ferrari required using wedges to force the head off the studs and a special crow's foot style 12 point 15mm wrench for the 8 nuts on the studs (they sit behind the cam troughs). Air cooled boxer engines, VW, Porsche and Corvair, much easier to work on, just have to be sure they are sealed properly so they don't emulate Matt's Harley and mark their spot.

Another explanation you probably don't want to hear, actually two, (a) water pump seal that leaks when stationary under reduced pressure (in) or (b) head gasket(s) leaking forcing coolant out then since it wasn't expansion not pulling it in. Third would be a similar situation anywhere there is a joint in the cooling system and from what I remember from the Subaru I had and others I have messed with, only a V12 E-Type Jag has more joints. and they could be a nightmare to get sealed.

Gary, it's partially a matter of "how much do I want to put into a 26 year old car with a bad rod journal and 140,000 + miles on it?"

Piece on the rear axle is a load compensating valve, no adjustment unless it is replaced. Pin referenced should be on one end of the valve/failure switch on the front frame in your bottom picture. Piece of advice, in the rear where the brake line makes the turn from lengthwise on the frame to go over to the load compensating valve, that is a low area, examine the line there for rust. I blew one out towing my 5th wheel, lost rear and trailer brakes (nice old fashioned Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic actuator).

Well, the good news is other than the clutch the F450 compressor is the same FS10 as the Taurus. Now comes the question, do I use it and maybe pick up a condenser and liquid line or order everything to replace it new?

I got the complete AC system except for the lines which you cut to get them apart.

I hope they did, because the Taurus orifice is an integral part of the liquid line (like the 2005 Dog, er Dodge) I just fought with. It was replaced when the flexible portion developed a leak.

Not truck related, but at least it's a Ford my "antique" Taurus ate it's AC compressor yesterday. I really hope the local salvage yard still has the collection of 3.8L Taurii. I will probably get a compressor and condenser as I am sure that FS-10 shucked some insides into the condenser. No noise, just some smoke from the right front of the hood, alternator light never came on and steering felt normal. I was sitting in the Hardees drive through behind one who apparently had a group order as it took forever for him to move. Today I opened the hood, found the belt broken/burned through and everything turning freely except the AC compressor clutch. It may have been the clutch slipping that was smoking as the rubber cushions are melted and the whole thing is stuck. Changing one of these is loads of fun, fan has to come off, then the compressor comes out from the bottom after disconnecting the lines.

Suggestion, take a timing light and put it on the coil wire, with the engine running apply vacuum to the advance unit. If the light continues to flash, then you may have an alignment issue with the reluctor. If it quits flashing as the vacuum is applied, then it is in the pickup coil leads.

Here is the type carburetor I was referring to. A lot of the Jeep crowd used to swear by them. You can see where the float bowl sits up above everything and the primary main jets are located almost in the center of the bottom of the bowl, secondary jets are tubes extending down into the bowl close to the primary main jets. It will function at some amazing angles. FWIW, the 1953-54 Lincolns in the Pan Americana had these. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/holley-model-4000-teapot

That is the grounding tab, and as has been mentioned is the only ground for the DS-II system.

Years ago in my shop, we had a Cadillac, old enough that it had breaker points (shop was sold in 1978 so it wasn't that old a car at the time) it would idle smooth as silk, but if you came off idle, it would miss, shake and almost cut off. The primary wire from the points to the coil, had a bad area right where it flexed as the vacuum advance pulled in. Do you have a multimeter? If you do or can borrow one, you can test the pickup coil wiring with it. First verify the ground connection is solid, as Jim mentioned, the entire DS-II system grounds there. Then check the pickup resistance. While doing these checks, apply vacuum to the advance with some source, Miti-vac or a piece of hose and suck on it. The other option is to actually wiggle the wires with the cap and rotor removed. Any "blip" or change in resistance on either the ground or pickup is what you are looking for. I am going the guess it will be in the pickup wires inside the distributor body.

Gary, I think red, but it's been over 10 years since it was put together. Maybe when I change engines since it has to come apart, I will look and document it.

The speed density issue is lobe separation, somewhere I have seen a chart showing what lobe separation is tolerable, I'm recalling something like 110° lobe separation. Also too "lumpy" a cam will drive a speed density system craze. On off road, even a TBI system might do well, one of the old choices was the "piss pot" Holley of the mid 50s, the float bowl sits above the main body and it will almost run on it's side. Basically if you can get gas to it and you are not at such and angle as to starve the oil system, it will run.

Gary, you will need to shop here: https://www.coolantarctica.com/Antarctica%20fact%20file/science/clothing_in_antarctica.php If I can hang sides of beef in Darth's crew cab with essentially the same system and not all the extra inside the casing insulation, hopefully it will be good enough for a max of 3 people.

Yes, as they flow better, the system will compensate for that.

I agree with Gary, unless you want to go to a newer system (which will clear some of the stuff off behind the battery) best thing you can do is better heads, the heads on that engine are some of the worst Ford ever used. A late 5.0L Explorer (or clone) has very mice heads, early versions are GT40, later GT40P (identified by a "P" stamped on the end).