85lebaront2

I do, but I used the 1990 attachment points and the hoses just come under the radiator support.

Gary, here is the factory oil cooler mounting:

Do you guys think this should be on our steering column page? We seem to have this discussion frequently. And do you agree with me that the bottom one must be the 1990 & on version? Gary, bottom is 1990-1991, as far as I know, 1992-96/7 is (a) stub column and (b) two universals one at each end of the collapsible portion which runs from the column to the gear.

Jim, if you could mate the lower portion of an aeronose shaft with the upper underhood portion of a coffin nose shaft it should work. I had to build a column system for the "Chevstang" Pete Medlin built so his son and widow can drive it. Anything can be done if you are determined enough. Do you want me to send you that lower shaft from the F450?

Jim, my parts donor truck was a 1990, and I don't remember exactly what the differences were, but I believe it had a different rag joint, a flexible plastic one and may have had a U-joint at the base of the column but I do not have any pictures of it. By the time I had the front sheet metal off, the column was already out. Here are two pictures of the 1992-97 stub column and upper U-joint:

Jim, the problem with the aeronose is the column itself, remember the F450, stub column that bolts to the huge cast aluminum support. Then a U-joint inside the firewall and one at the steering gear.

Damn, I'll have to look and see If I have one, I put one on my wife's cousin's Chevy G-30 van wired to the rear courtesy light and running light circuits so if you opened the rear doors with the lights on it would buzz.

Unless the Bronco was specified for California, the feedback system began in 1984 for the 4.9L engine. I believe the OP is looking at a 1983. 1983 could have had the MCU system, and probably does. MCU = Mixture Control Unit and was made in both a CA spec and 49 state spec. EEC-III was never on the 300. 1984 is when the feedback carbs started and those systems are EEC-IV and do use the TFI ignition module. All my emission diagrams show either a single or dual diaphragm distributor which points toward a DS-II ignition. What I can get from my AllData is the MCU sits on top of the DS-II (or possibly DS-III) and there should be some vacuum switches on the top rear of the valve cover. I can pull up the MCU wiring, but the ignition diagrams say "without EEC" but Ford does not call this system an EEC so it may be correct, in which case it is the DS-II system which is usually pretty damn reliable. In the bottom right of the picture Gary enlarged, there appears to be a box with an electrical connector on top, if so it should be 24 pins and will be the MCU, under it should be the DS-II box.

That is the first I have heard of not using it in reverse, don't think even on GV site. I guess the box would keep that from happening as it will not go into OD unless going 30 MPH and you would not be doing that backing up. Dave ---- That may well be the case, I know on the MGs and Jags they just had an OD switch, on the MGB it was on the top of the shift knob, it could be used (conceivably) in any gear, but had a shift rail switch that only allowed it in 3rd and 4th. The real nice thing compared to traditional US models (Borg-Warner) is the ability to shift up or down under power. Many sports car racers use them to get 8 forward gears. I had a 1958 F100 (my first pickup) that I replaced the 223 and 3 speed with a 1957 312 T-Bird Special and Borg-Warner T85 w/OD. After I found that the nice little Carter AFB from a 300 ci Buick had a hairline crack in the right float bowl, I was feeling like having some fun, I put a 2 barrel intake on it and a Motorcraft 2700 VV carb on. The 2700 is the non-feedback version. Running on the nice 2 lane back road going up to our big BSA camp, 25 mpg with the 3.73 gear in that truck, and loads of power.

Interesting, so the GV unit is a Laycock De Normanville hydraulic unit. Item of warning, make damn sure there is no way it can even try to go into OD in reverse. You do not even want to think about the damage that occurs when the cone clutch releases from direct to go into OD, it will just slip, then when the hydraulic pressure builds enough to engage OD, the overrunning clutch and cone clutch are fighting each other, the cone clutch usually wins resulting in complete carnage inside. Years ago my dad bought a 1963 Sunbeam Alpine with OD, it wouldn't work, so he decided to see what was wrong, that one had apparently been engaged in reverse, as the inside was junk, gears and overrunning clutch all trashed.

Sort of like GM claiming the Roto-Hydramatics were 3 speed, 4 stage transmissions. The claim was since the fluid coupling had a stator (called an accelerotor) that in the initial stages starting in 1st it provided a small torque multiplication, now since it was connected directly to the output shaft, it was partially negated by the reaction fighting the power through the gear set.

Rangers had the (in chronological order) C3, C5, A4LD, 4R44E (4R55E for 4.0 V6), and 5R44E (5R55E for 4.0 V6). This one should have the 5R44E. 4-Speed, Rear wheel drive, 44o (or 55o) torque rating, Electronic control 5-speed, Rear wheel drive, 44o (or 55o) torque rating, Electronic control You do know how Ford made the 4R44 and 55 into a 5R don't you? I found out when a friend's Exploder 4.0L developed a sloppy shift, running it down the road with my Solus connected told us the clutches were slipping on the 3-4 shift.

Ester, unless you are absolutely sure there is no petroleum base oil anywhere in the system. On charging it, you want the low side high enough that you aren't short cycling the compressor, the upper line on the evaporator and the accumulator (tank) should be cold, ideally inlet and outlet to the evaporator should be close in temperature.

Measure the radial distance on the Holley and compare it to the Chevy throttle arm on the Carter, also Ford throttle sits only a little forward of vertical, a bit more than a Mopar, but no where near as far as a Chevy. I learned a long time ago that "universal" throttle arms = Chevy.

AOD cable adjustment, I put a section in on it, but, the AOD is a lot like the old GM Hydra-Matics on throttle adjustment, too tight and it will either not get into OD or is hyper sensitive to throttle, kicking down at the least throttle. Too loose and it will shift (and slip) super early. There are special gauges for adjusting it, but, shift "feel" is a good test, shift 2-3 is your test point, if it is early and soft, tighten the cable (move the outer casing away from the carb) if it is late and hard, loosen the cable. 2-3 should be firm, but not slam. It is a purely mechanical gear, no torque converter, 3-4 should normally be around 45 mph under normal driving.

Thanks for the reply. They do look like the same as used on the 100/150 trucks and why I asked if they also came from the truck the bars came from. Dave ---- The ones on that truck (1990 F250) were part of the lower spring seat seen here:

The front mount was ordered from Green Sales and is the correct one for the 1986 F250/350 (might fit the 150). The rear goes in front of the axle and kicks up over the front, the outer ends sit outside the frame which is what the last picture is showing. I am seeing all 5 pictures on my end even with our currently abysmal internet service.

I took the set that came of my parts donor 1990 F250 and put them on Darth, it does make a difference in handling. Front bar: Rear bar:

On the choke adjustment, most of the feedback carbs have a tab or slot on the choke thermostat cover to "lock" it in place. There is a procedure for setting idle mixture, and if it is anything like what I had to deal with at the Dodge dealership I worked at, it will either require a propane enrichment or even a combustion analyzer. Idle speed, there should be (somewhere, maybe in the emission manual) a base idle RPM, with either the idle speed control fully retracted or disabled. This is the setting to prevent dieseling. The noise you may be hearing when you shut it off could be the idle speed motor retracting to allow the throttle to close fully.

Gary, that one is also hosed, I found the same sequence of pages several places and quit trying to find the idle setting procedure. First thing that needs to be done VERY IMPORTANT is the find out if the computer system is even functioning. I covered the quick sanity checks previously. Added to that is see if the spark advance is taking place with the SPOUT connected after setting it to 10° BTDC with the SPOUT disconnected. I may have the correct emissions diagnostic manual for his truck, I will check shortly.

If the ECU is not controlling the mixture, I believe it may default to full rich. All the solenoid does is control the air bleeds, unfortunately I do not have one I can look at (sold my 4.9L feedback carburetor to a friend with an 86 4.9L bullnose). If you put your finger on the solenoid with the engine running you should be able to feel it "cycling". You can try first see if you have power at the red wire going to all the various emission solenoid valves with the engine running. The EEC relay is a time delay, which tells me it waits long enough to allow the engine to stabilize before closing to power the components. Go here for the pertinent EVTM section: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control1.html that should help you with what is supposed to happen. If the relay never closes, then none of that system will work. Another sanity check, there should be an idle speed motor, which also has a closed throttle switch to tell the ECU you are at idle, it is supposed to control the idle speed and open the throttle on deceleration. If it isn't working then I would bet none of the other stuff is working either.

Gary, do you really need the speed control for engine break in? I thought it was 2500? RPM for 20-30 mins to break in the cam. After that aren't you going to finish installing the EFI system before driving him, and even if you are going to drive him, do you really need the cruise control for that? You did note my comment on the EFI cables didn't you? They are longer and may have different ends.

Gary, will the cable casing allow the bracket to be turned 90°? If so do that and bolt it on the plate sideways, other possibility is use the cruise control cable bracket. Neither of those (cables included) will be of use to you once the plenum and throttle body are mounted.

Ok, two items, for now, try using the front groove on the alternator. Second, the mount system Lariat85 talks about was also common an cars it those years, a similar double holed adapter was used on the left side for the power steering mount, with AC it was built into the big casting the Tecumseh or York 2 cyl compressor sat on. Ford did that on most 302 and 351W engines so that the rest of the front dress (flat brackets, braces etc. was identical usually even the belts were the same.

The factory systems were orifice tubes. He can probably find a Sanyo or similar used on a Volvo, but would still need brackets. If he can find someone here willing to check on some aftermarket AC kits, most now use the nice compact compressors.