85lebaront2

Back in the late 60s I was working rotating shifts at NNS, 1st was 7 AM to 4 PM with an hour for lunch, 2nd was 4 pm to midnight with a 20 min lunch break. 3rd was midnight to 8 AM. If I was working Water Chemistry, it was 8 am to 4 PM with a 20 min lunch. We would do 2 weeks of each then move "up" one shift so it was 2 wks of modified 1st, 2 wks of 2nd and 2 wks of 3rd. The 2 wks of 3rd I would try to get the middle weekend as your schedule was so screwed up that a 2 day break made it worse. At that time the lab techs were hourly and union eligible so there was a 7% night shift differential. This meant that the 4 weeks I worked 2nd and 3rd shift I got an extra 7% + overtime on weekends. When I was on active duty in the Marines, if you got 5 hours sleep weeknights you felt lucky.

The check valve was to allow the system to be partially opened, same reason for the service valves on the FS-6 compressors and the preceding York/Tecumseh twins. It was indeed a holdover from the days when R12 was dirt cheap and there wasn't a big worry about just dumping some into the air. Interestingly enough, I don't remember my 1963 Jetfire having service valves and I know my 1978 Oldsmobile and 1980 Pontiac didn't have them.

After I got that resolved, cleaned up and ate dinner, I went to work on some Chrysler radio wiring. I had picked up a 6 channel Infinity amplifier at Pick-n-Pull a while back and I have several different Chrysler radios. There are two different connection systems that, in the best Detroit tradition overlap. The older system (started in 1985) is two 7 pin plugs that handle power bat and ign, illumination, power antenna or amp control and 4 channel stereo. The 6 channel system splits the dash speakers from the front door ones and I suspect that is where part of the top down equalization in the amp takes place. The newer system still only uses 4 channels at the radio, but has a 22 pin modular plug. The first Chrysler Infinity systems were one of the best sounding factory car or van systems and used amplifiers mounted on the door and rear speakers powered with a relay through a choke to get rid of noise in the amplifier power. I had a set in a 1989 and 1993 Grand Caravan, the 1985 convertible had the Chrysler pre-Infinity system which sounded great when all the speakers worked. New convertible has all new Crutchfield sourced speakers with acoustic baffles for the doors and rear quarter speakers. They are coaxial 5.25" door and rear and 3.5" coaxial dash speakers. Here are some pictures of the wiring work: Wire strippers (Navy told NNS to dispose of these as they no longer meet Navy standards) Here is what I was soldering, they are Ford .060 male wedge-lock pins as Chrysler electrical parts are damn near impossible to get except by salvaging them. Here is what I was using, a Radio Shack soldering station I bought in Salisbury MD before they shut down. Here is the completed piece, white plug to radio, black to amplifier harness (there is a gray one for the output).

Well. I got Darth fixed, what it was I have no clue, the power lead from the ignition switch to the HVAC and a number of underhood items was staying live with the key off. It was live even with the connector plug off the switch. I started by removing the bulkhead 76 pin plug and found the pin that comes out from the inside was hot at the underhood side telling me something was shorted. I went through and pulled all the fuses in the underhood PDC at which point the mystery hot circuit vanished. I disconnected my trailer relay box (4 relays, one for a battery charging circuit, one for running lights (also the Dually fender and back of bed lights) and left and right trailer turn and stop lights) they were energized with the key off also. with the fuses out, no live circuits, replaced them one at a time and checked the correct circuit and the mystery hot circuit and never found what did it. A little moisture inside the 76 pin connector but nothing else.

Yes, difference is the way you use it. If the system is apart, the bottle is the easy way to add the oil needed, I just did my 1994 Taurus that way. If the system is together and either uncharged or partially charged the tappable can is the way to go as it has R134 and PAG46 in it.

Do you want me to send you the 1995 F450 lines? I lack the frame bracket and filter with bracket. Unfortunately that won't help your current issue as those ends are Ford spring lock style at the engine.

I was referring to pressurize the return line once you have verified correct flow. For the initial I said remove the "return" from the regulator and plug the end in case it is backwards. take a new piece of hose from the regulator and run it to the filler neck for the tank you are using (cap off obviously) if you have return flow, now adjust the regulator for the correct pressure. If no return flow then you must be plumbed backwards and will need to correct it, but you can break in the cam with the return secured in the filler neck and get that major item ticked off your list. If you have correct flow, then see if you can pressurize the return line (from the way I read it the pump has to be running) and get flow back to the tank. It may be that the return valve takes 10-12 psi to open it, I don't know as I never bothered to check, I know I get 39-42 psi engine off on Darth and 55 on the Chrysler.

Disconnect the return line from the regulator and plug the end for safety. Connect an extra piece of hose to the regulator output and run it around to the filler neck of the tank you are using. First if no fuel comes from the regulator you have determined you are plumbed backwards. If it does and you can now control the pressure then something is restricting the return, possibly the shuttle valve in the pump module. Does the pump module you are using still have the recall valve on it? That will guarantee that the flow direction is out from the tank leaving the other nipple as the return. I would also try low pressure air into the tank return to make sure it isn't obstructed. For a refresher, here are the two pictures of the 1993 FDM.

Jim, on the crabs I couldn't tell you, neither Mary nor I eat them. It seriously is mosquito season though. Damn blood sucking helicopters!

Jim, you want to come down here on Virginia's appendix? I am chasing a wiring gremlin on Darth. About two weeks ago I went to make dump run and the battery was low, after hooking up the jump box I noticed the fan was running with the key off. Yesterday I was going to move him over and the battery was so low I had to use the key to open the door, no lights, nada. Checked this morning 1.5 V at the battery. I put the charger on and figured maybe an ignition switch issue and pulled it for testing. Everything matches what it is supposed to be in the 1996 EVTM. With the switch disconnected, I can still run the HVAC fan and discovered my relay for trailer battery charge was also energized. All of these are fed through the B2 and B3 terminals on the switch and powered at A2 and A3 (high current draw items) and are fused with a 30 amp maxi fuse. Tomorrow I will pull it and see if everything is dead that should be with the key off (ignition switch is still unplugged).

A few items I learned (a) front and rear bench seats are the same, front should have the back locked, rear will tilt forward (b) all the back of cab trim is same as a standard cab rear door panels and "B" pillar are crew cab specific © the rear corners have the mountings for outboard seat belts lower attachment is in the "trough" and will have a rubber plug in the hole, upper retractor hole may not be tapped, but is easily done 7/16-20 thread (d) rear doors do not have a dome light switch nor any wiring for it and if the truck has power windows and locks, not in the rear (e) cab mounts, front are same as all other cabs, rear may be the same mounts but bolts are very long as they pass through the rear cab crossmember (f) floor is interesting, mine came with a 460 and C6 but has the tall transmission cover the rear seat and front seat mounting are is identical and there is roughly 35" extension that forms the rear footwells. Underneath you will find that fuel lines, exhaust and brake lines have extensions in them to allow for the 35" longer wheelbase. You will learn that the old "give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around" definitely applies to the 4WD models, 2WD ones have different steering components than standard and super cab models allowing the inside front wheel to go close to 90° to the frame. Enjoy it, they are definitely tough trucks and good looking.

Rusty, I don't know where you are, but here I can buy ethanol free premium and it is what is in my convertible tank right now and I use it in all my small engines at the price of some of those carburetors it's cheap insurance. On your Holley 4000, the original factory needle and seat were both metal, most of the newer kits now have Viton tipped needles which generally eliminates the periodic flooding on startup. You are smart in snagging those choke covers but have you ever checked to see if the choke stove was leaking exhaust into the heated area? On the 1957 292/312 manifolds there is a stainless steel tube that is replaceable, one end is slightly larger. The tube passes through the crossover and is crimped down to a Y cross section for maximum heat exposure. The later models (1958-1964) had the choke stove in the right exhaust manifold.

Damn, I have got to get back to Newport News and Pete's to get into the trunk on my 1995 Lincoln Continental, there should still be a good 1986 Bullnose cluster with a tach. I also need to get my spare alternator (just a regular Taurus 3.8L 130 amp) as I think the diodes in the 160 amp are FUBAR. Battery drained deader than a doornail after sitting for a week.

Gary, his Bullnose now resides very close to it's birthplace, The old Norfolk Assembly Plant. The only Ford he owns is a 2002 Excursion V10. He no longer has the Mustang as Olympus gave him a company car and his other vehicle is a 2009 Harley Davidson Street Glide. As a result I doubt he would be real interested in the forum. To finish the Oldsmobile/Matt connection, when he was a teenager he went to a local roller rink many times driving the Olds. He came out one night as they were closing, put the key in the ignition and when he turned it on noticed about half the fuel in it had vanished, did a quick check for leaks or a hole in the tank, nada, so he turned the key off and waited. After a bit another kid about his age came out and got into a Camaro parked nearby, started it and got about 1 car length before it smoked, rattled and shut off. Matt cranked up the Olds, gunned it once for effect so the kid realized he had syphoned Diesel fuel instead of gas and roared by him. He found out a few weeks later that by the time the kid had it fixed stealing that tank of Diesel cost him or his parents about $3000 in repairs.

Just as long as you leave the prince of darkness out of it, you can also check your tyres while you're at it.

Gary, sounds good to me. Jim might want to add Pete's used parts as that's where his Saginaw came from along with his mirrors.

It wasn't the luxury Olds, that would have been a 98 Regency which is a C rather than B body (longer). Funny story, only new car I ever bought it was while we owned Preston and the Diesels had just come out. We went down and drove one, the demo was a 98 Regency, We speced out a 98 and an 88 and definitely did not want a vinyl top. The dealership is a family business and Mike Suttle III personally handled the sale. He gave us a story that an 88 like we had speced out had come in without a vinyl roof and the customer turned it down. It was kind of strange because it had exactly what we were looking at, optional tires etc. MS III offered it at $1100 off sticker when no one was discounting the Diesels, they were selling as fast as they came in at sticker price. They wanted me, owning a well known in the area Carburetor and ignition shop to buy a Diesel car. When it was less than a year old, Karen (my late wife) had our youngest (Matt) in the car and was hit in the right rear by a clown who ran a stop sign. Since the car was almost new it went back to Suttle Motor Company for repair. I was told they put a new quarter panel on, many years later I found it was straightened and bondoed. Fast forward roughly 16 years, first after it only got 16 mpg highway, I figured out the Roosamaster internal timing marks and reset the pump to where it should have and when GM sent a TSB on pump timing errors the service manager called me and asked if I could bring the car down. When they performed the TSB, they found my mark was dead on. Matt was driving the car to and from Norfolk for the Vietnam Veterans Haunted Forest, he was on his way home when a drunk sailor made a left turn in front of him. Car was totaled as the left frame horn was buckled at the steering gear mount. Since I had put a newer engine in it after the original broke the crank at #4 main, I saved that for a Bonneville Diesel I had acquired with a bad engine. Between the optional tires, Police package front and rear sway bars and 4 Konis, it would take an exit ramp at double the "safe" speed and scared the devil out of people because it had a police car stance to it.

I rebuilt many of those, in addition to Ford IHC used them on some of their HD truck engines, the 549 in particular. The 55-56 Lincolns had a different variation on it, larger for the bigger engine. The 1957 T-Bird 312s E and F code used them also E code had 2 and F code had one with a McCullough supercharger. Properly set up they run quite well and as some of the off-road people found, will damn near run on their sides.

One of the reasons I have been a fan of Crutchfield for years, I have actually been in their main location on the North side of Charlottesville VA. I bought a very nice tuner and CD changer combination from their clearance section that I had a pair of mounts for, one set was in the truck the other in the Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Diesel. If we were taking the 5th wheel it went in Darth, if not it went in the Olds.

Gary, Holley and Chrysler released a modification kit for the secondary metering body. It reversed the gasket sequence and the instructions specified checked the metering body for warpage and to replace it with an updated design. The original Holley 4160 series had a roughly rectangular metering body on the secondary side in lieu of the metering block the 4150 series used. These were attached to the main body with 6 screws (countersunk flat head that had a clutch head drive to install or remove them. This was a cost saving design and also a space saving as it cut roughly 1/2" off the secondary side allowing for the dual Holleys Ford used on the 427 engines. The original design had two corners at the outer ends of the bottom and when the gasket stackup (cork main gasket, thin steel separator plate, rubberized paper gasket and metering body) the zinc alloy body casting could warp from heat and the lower corners pull away from the gaskets. Since the outer lower corners contained the idle passages, a warped metering body opened the idle passages in the main body directly into the float bowl. The update included (if needed) a redesigned metering body with the unsupported corners eliminated and a new gasket stackup sequence, it was now a full coverage rubberized paper gasket, a full coverage steel plate and finally the cork (later composition) bowl gasket. This effectively cured the problem with secondary metering system (side note: works on the 4180 Ford used). The other issue with the Chrysler Holleys was Chrysler's decision to use engine modifications rather than air pumps. The primary idle and transition circuits were unique to the Chrysler carbs and required a special primary metering block and gasket. If a normal Holley gasket was used in error the transition circuits were blocked and you had a huge dead area as the throttles were opened. The other cute issue, in order to meet the anti-tamper requirement, Holley changed the idle mixture screws to air bleed screws making them work backwards so the mixture could only be made so rich, not rich enough to fail testing. The final piece of the problem was ignition timing. The engineers found that retarding the timing allowed for a leaner idle mixture so Chrysler went from having initial timing around 12.5° BTDC static, to 2.5° BTDC static and even some at 2.5° to 5° ATDC on some engines with a propensity to backfire through the carburetor on sudden throttle openings and frequently on hot restarts. The "Highland Park Hummingbird", Chrysler's gear reduction starter, didn't help matters either. You could walk out of a shopping center or large store and hear a Chrysler product's classic "ying, ying, ying, boom, roar" nearly every day.

Gary, et al, this exactly why the only rebuilt carbs Preston Carburation had were done in-house. I know what I sold to a core supplier, R. N. Grillo and company, they were junk that wasn't repairable, yet rebuilders would pay money for them. Best story, Vince Grillo told me on one trip he would pay $10 per core for Chrysler Holleys, I went around to all the dealerships we sold to and bought up the Holley 4 barrels at $4 each ($1 per hole). He came on his next trip and I had him leave extra 55 gal barrels the previous time, 6 barrels of Chrysler Holley 4 barrels. He asked if he could just pick one at random, count them and multiply it by 6. I told him that was fine. He was peeling off $100s like they were $1s. Next trip he had some choice words, he ended up stuck with most of them. I told he asked for them, I just obliged.

Now I see why Ford changed the lines. I had the 1990 set, but pulled one of your tricks, I couldn't find them when I was ready to install them. My friend in NEPA had sent me the extra parts from his plow truck project so I had the 1994 stuff to use, Interesting that Darth's frame had the holes for the later parts that are from an 8 year newer truck.

Gary, you do realize that the 1955-56 Golden Hawks had Packard Clipper V8s, 320 ci in 1955 and 352 ci in 1956. When S-P killed Packard and built the Packardbakers for 1957-58 to honor their commitment to the Packard dealers it was a stopgap to keep things going after the big AMC/S-P merger fell apart. Studebaker wasn't the only beneficiary of Packard's big V8s, Hudson and Nash also got them as the long term plan was for S-P to merge with AMC (which would probably not have ended well for Chrysler).

Jim, the issue with using the remote mount TFI heat sink, it is designed for a straight module with all the connections on one end. This brings up another point, there are two different types of TFI modules that have entirely different characteristics. The gray modules (distributor or remote mount) are referred to as "push start" and have a cranking signal like the DS-II modules. These "push" the dwell duration for a hotter spark when cranking. The black TFI modules are called "CCD" for Computer Controlled Dwell and the EEC controls the dwell time to get a hotter spark when needed.

From what I remember when they first came out YFA was an updated model with a much shorter throttle body than the 50s and 60s YF models. Y seems to be Carter's designation for the basic design, there are YH versions (side draft) a YS version for the Military M151 family (no mechanical pump or metering rod control). The YFA carbs all have a metering rod adjustment that is only supposed to be done with a proper exhaust gas analyzer on a dynamometer. I am sure that the better rebuilders have a flow bench to do this calibration.