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I'm trying to wrap my head around how this is in any way advantageous over just using the proper Pollak valve, for $80 delivered? Yes, you need to splice their pigtail to the existing harness, but since the factory valve is over $400 and NLA I don't see a downside.

I'm a simple man. I don't ask for much. Yeah: the photos, the links, and obviously we won't have an issue with an Nabble server anymore..... I want to say Thank You, for all the effort you and Chris have put into this.

I really don't care, as long as I can load pic's without having to jump through hoops, create links without having to back out some ridiculous imbedded http prefix and the damn "server is over capacity" or timeouts that dump my painfully crafted response (complete with links and images that I have to open on separate pages on my phone, then skip back and forth) Also, it would be REALLY NICE if the forum didn't open in a separate page for the reply window. Maybe all that is a big ask, but it would make my remaining days much easier.

Are you looking to swap the whole 9" axle, or just the pig's head? There are dozens of places that build these things, from so cheap I wouldn't trust them to Strange or Currie axles that hold 1,000 HP. Your title says "conversion" so I have to assume you're looking for a center section that will take your 31 spline axles?

I've mentioned this stuff multiple times, as a far less expensive alternative to Ospho. You can easily get the instructions and SDS online. (correct run-on word)

I think Bill has said that one from a Chrysler K car is functionally identical. (Omni/Horizon, Reliant, etc..)

I don't have Hot Fuel Handling, or an electric pump, but I do believe that my 6-port valve switches senders. I'll have to find my EVTM as it's supposed to continue raining at least into Sunday.

It's STILL iron oxide, not iron phosphate or iron tannate.(from oak and other things with high tannic acid) IMHO no rust is "good" rust.

My truck is 37 years old and I don't see that my switch makes the readings bad when I test with a meter. But I have old senders and a new style cluster, so my gauges read backwards and I run out when they reach up to 5/8 on the dash. Metermatch is useless for me.😖 I'd rather have some indication than none at all.

Which is why I said I'd use phosphoric acid. Or citric or oxcylic acid, but these don't change rust into iron phosphate which is inert.

This is not true. The selector switch should have negligible resistance. Resistance comes from the sender. The gauges work by heating up a bimetallic spring, just like a choke cap. This damps movement, preventing wild swings from gas sloshing around.in the tank. Hysteresis is built into the gauge itself, because it can't heat or cool instantly from the tiny power it gets from the ICVR. Edit: response, to a deleted post....

Those are factory manuals, so yes that is a factory p/n and the ID# you would find ON the part. Like Viven said, you can likely rebuild your existing one. Or you can find any mid '80's 460 or IDI to scavenge one from. Worst case, you have the wiring diagram and can hack a DPST rocker switch from just about anywhere (it doesn't pass much current) as long as it will fit in the space.

Don't ignore ANY example. It's all a data point. Just take it in context, like understanding the high VAT in Canada, not to mention the exchange rate. Cory/Rembrandt has shocked me a few times with the cost of things up there. It's not far from the whole "EV's catch fire, and you can't put them out" BS. I spend the whole night dealing with accidents 30ish% of the time.(the rest are police calls and tow away' s) Do you have any idea how many gasoline fires there are per X miles traveled v/s EV? I can tell you that battery packs have way less actual energy stored than a fuel tank (remember, 65+ percent of an ICE power becomes waste heat) and I've never seen anyone immolated by being drenched in batteries. They also don't run down the gutter catching other cars in the accident on fire. Reduce, reuse, recycle... A 75% car battery is about perfect for storage of a residential solar system, and probably costs far less than a Powerwall or whatever other flavour you choose. If the average home uses 10kwh per day you can do the math on what an EOL EV battery @ 75% of rated capacity will hold.(depending on the vehicle) And, of course, you can run directly off' the panels, if the sun is shining.

Well I wouldn't have imagined it but you're correct It's about 20" from the rear face of the transmission mount to the tailshaft seal. I don't have a rear driveshaft installed, since I blew my differential up, so I can't really measure to the center of the yoke.

It's looking good enough for paint. Don't thank me. There's thousands of not millions before me. Glad it's worked out well for you!

I have a slip yoke 1356. If it was 9-10" shorter, it would be a black hole. 🤯 Give me a few, and I'll get pic's

First off, that's 50k Canadian. Second, there is no history given for the previous owner. Third, it wasn't charging and he continued to drive it. (If the charge controller isn't functioning, Lord knows how badly he abused the battery) But the early chemistry on those batteries (2017 model, so 2016 built) was not the greatest. Just like a phone, laptop or any other NMC battery, it's best not to load it when it's really low. I'd like to have heard from the dealership, or something other than just him crying about it. You'd have to be a fool to make a big purchase without a balance and load test. Or! Maybe he bought it dirt cheap because he already knew it was trashed. This is NOT investigative journalism. This is sensationalism, and click bait.

This is for the Burro?

Link: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/idi-diesel.html And, Welcome Troy! We're here to help. 👍

My Sister had a 99 Accord in light metallic green. When she moved to SC last year she gave it to my great nephew. I'm still mad that I didn't get ANYTHING for the month+ of work I did so she could sell. I'd told her I loved that little car(and fixed it multiple times) I'm not sure what you mean about the used car market??? It's not like people don't buy new cars every day.🤷‍♂️ The old ones either get traded in, or sold on.

Gary is griping about how electric pickups don't have the range he wants to drag a load of stuff to his kids house in SC or FL. Or to drive the trails of Ouray. (?) BTW I towed a Maybach the other night. They really are luxury incarnate! Not that I would want one,

But this isn't about Bronco's What have you found under 4x4 Styleside short beds? Is it any different than a Flareside?

Randy, I appreciate your offer, but Gary sent me a kind gift not long after this was posted.

You want E3TZ9A050-AA (marked E3TB 9A050-AA) It's the same as an '83-'86 460 gas engine Here's the EVTM pages: And here are the part numbers:

The Bronco's had a weird fixed yoke with a kind of spherical joint. I haven't seen enough shortbed 4x4's to offer much help, unfortunately, Jonathan.