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Quite a few of us here are intrigued by the esoteric options. If you start a thread I'll be sure to tag Shaun. His interest is in early ('80-81) truck options, but he has a lot of knowledge about 'the weird ones'

Thank you Jim! It was the literature that got me here in the first place! LOL. I am looking to find out as much information about the Black Out Option that was available on the Bullnoses since mu recent purchase is all blacked out. I am still researching the topic and will be combing through the forum to find out if anyone has already brought it up! Don't know much about the blackout option. We have a lot of members who are interested in XLS and Lightnings, plus the Freewheeling packages.

So glad you've joined! This is THE PLACE for Bullnose documentation. 😉 Seems like you'd have quite a bit to contribute.

Just wait until you get past 60. CRS is a real thing....

I meant to say, the type of moron who eliminates them because "We don't need no stinkin safeties! It's just another point of failure" Failsafe is a thing for a reason And if you like napalm, be my guest. Just don't let your idiocy burn a passenger or bystander to a crisp 💡

I'm serious. You have the impact (inertia) and oil pressure cut-off switches in your schematic. I can't tell you how many morons would eliminate them. (I get to see the results of "die in a fire", it is something I never even want to think about)

My little brother says "You're a ****ing RETARD!" I wear it as a badge of honor (while I have a 172 IQ and he literally can't figure out a 3-way light switch)

I congratulate you for including the mandated safety switches. 👍

My personal experience is that my 6-port has never had a hiccup. But obviously anyone reading these threads has a problem with theirs. That's the ONLY reason I know Hot Fuel Handling (because other people have issues) My truck is mechanical pump, but I enjoy problem solving and know I'm better with schematics than most, and memorize part numbers, so I can be helpful....

How's that? Make do with whatever you have at hand! I personally wouldn't use my Avalanche for removing knobs, but S30V was never meant for prying

Yes. Gary has one to use '96 FDM's for his EFI 460 in an '85, and I've been trying (for 2 years!) to use '86 senders with an '87 cluster. So, I'm about to get rid of it. I have the manual, and the little screwdriver it comes with. Look at their site. (I think they're like $70 now) but if you think it would work for your problem send me an email (click my username) and give me an address.

4) you can get a model with the LRC already installed (Escort or Lincoln/Mercury) LRC are usually white instead of grey 5) all alternator shafts are 17mm. Depending on your existing pulley and the particular 3G casting you may need a thin shim behind it. A 5/8" washer usually works. -yes, I know.... but SAE washers are sloppy fit- 6) same belt. Unless you want new. 7) reclocking is not a big deal. 3 screws. Do NOT pull it apart, or you will have to deal with the brushes. 8) the adjuster arm has a kink in it You need to hammer it 1/4" (6mm) flatter, but not flat How else can I help? 👂

That's why I said I bent it and ground it down. I keep getting them (free set) and I don't know anyone who wants another, at this point! 🤣

I'm not sure where you expected Ford to put a single tank and a spare tire, but I like the fact that I have a completely separate 'reserve' tank if the other gets a hole (or pump goes bad) if you have electric in-tank pumps. They boxed the frame by then. And all those frames rot in half like some damned Taco. I've done away with the plastic 'nose cone' on my midship tank. It only traps salt and muck, causing rot. I'm sure 12v is causing arcing of the resistor board of the sender. Have you considered 6v (ICVR) to the senders and using one of those, to make your cluster read correctly? 💡 My instrument won't read at all with the Meter Match, so I'm ready to eliminate it and go back to my needle moving up to 5/8 as empty. Maybe we can make a deal?

I literally have four of these free sets of picks from Horrid Fate. (Packout box, bench drawer, truck tool box and electronic/wiring kit) The one in the truck has a blunt & bent tip on the question mark one.(Why that weird shape?) I also keep a cheap T-20 on hand for dash screws.

Do you understand the chemical make up of the each is different?—that is why one is called hydro and the other mur. To equate them is false. Even in you own post, demonstrates my point—“also known as” is not the same as “identical.” I have no idea why this is an issue for you. But I posted the fact, of the compound. Whether you choose to accept that is up to you. As to the why: take it up with the many serious body shops that use it when necessary. They will tell you the why. It is used especially on older 50s panels they are seeking to save. If you seek them out, you will learn the why. Yeah, I'm done Good luck! 🙂

And powerplants are upwards of 65% efficiency, where an ICE is maybe 30% The more batteries connected to the grid, the more renewables it can handle. I'm getting really tired of stating the obvious facts I'm done with this.

It's an appliance, just like any Honda or Toyota... or Ford or Chevy for that matter! The fact is that you're converting about 30% of the energy that you're putting into a gasoline engine to do the same exact thing, let you down the road. So, absolutely not ridiculous amounts of energy. Ridiculous is starting with a tank full of gas and throwing 65% of it out the window.

You'd be surprised. I can't tell you how many I've had to go exchange a wheel, and their garage is brimming with projects. But you've driven one. They're certainly fast enough, as is. That doesn't mean you don't have a weekend toy (motorcycle, garden tractor or something else) to work on.

It's peak commuter traffic and I'm just getting off. Here I am at the last rest stop on 95, before NJ. There's a single car on the chargers... People have this ingrained idea that you have to stop to fuel up. The 50 or so Tesla's I've seen on the road this morning woke up refreshed, just like their owners. 💡

Fairfield county is one of the most congested parts of the country. When the bridge fell down in summer of '83 it handled a quarter million cars a day. I was a union carpenter back then.... Today, I'm up all night sitting in a flatbed waiting on a call. At 3 in the morning every truck and car is hauling at least 75. (myself included) My brother lives about 50 miles away, on the other side of New Haven. 2 1/2 hours is not uncommon, if traffic is bad.

Thanks for your concern: you do understand that they call it muriatic because it is not 100% hydro, yes? The stuff is pretty well cut over the counter, to lessen the effect of the more pure/stronger stuff. Therefore, your assertion they are = to each other is not true. Here are the facts: Main Difference – Hydrochloric Acid vs Muriatic Acid An acid is a chemical compound having characteristic properties such as turning blue litmus red, neutralizing alkali solutions and corrosiveness. Hydrochloric acid is a strong acid compared to other acids. People often confuse Muriatic acid with hydrochloric acid, assuming that both are the same; however, there is a slight difference between hydrochloric acid and Muriatic acid. The main difference between hydrochloric acid and Muriatic acid is that hydrochloric acid is composed of only HCl molecules whereas Muriatic acid is composed of impurities along with HCl molecules. And yes I do. That is why I have used it as prescribed open and ventilated. You should check out the body shops that use it. It's impressive. Do you understand that chlorine is a stronger oxidizer than oxygen? And what about it makes it so toxic and corrosive? You're trying to remove rust, which was likely caused by sodium chloride. Another chlorine compound. And why??? Because chlorine corrosion does not leave a passivated surface..... 💡 Edit;

I was saying the other day that traffic here is 80-85 if not congested. If you're going 60 you're going to get your doors blown off constantly.

Do you have the load testing video where he makes the single belt slip?