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It wasn't an observation. It was a suggestion, I know that you'll be back to better call those things!

How hard is your water there in skiatook? If it's bad you're going to be descaling that thing every 3 months

Powder coating! (If it's worth doing, it's worth OVER doing! 😆)

Those things had the really weird big ball joint front axle???

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Pre-Emptive-FIRE-tp58908.html

You need to look in the front of the book. If you don't have a physical copy, I can't recommend enough that you find a used one on eBay for around $25. Evidently I'm going to have to pull up the '85 and paste the pertinent pages in this thread. That might take a while but I should have time on the overnight.

I'd say get yourself a Predator Honda clone and be done with it. I get it, you want something to screw around with. I'm subscribed to follow the journey! 👍

Hey Chad, In another thread we were discussing the failings of these pickups (and Bronco's) front axles. One idea I had (that's fairly dangerous, in and of itself!) Is to come up with a CV axle retro-fit for these trucks. No more binding and jerkiness because the two universals are at vastly different angles. Just a thought, and something that I thought you might take an interest in.

Now here's a brilliant idea for Chad/little beefy. You want a retrofit stuff to these trucks? Come up with a CV axle retrofit. 💡

When you turn the wheels the universal at the hub is necessarily going to be at a more acute angle than the fixed angle between the center case and the control arm or beam

I do like this if he can drop the front shaft as it would tell where the issue is. Dave ---- I've been driving in front wheel drive for a few weeks now. The one observation I have is that universal joints are not CV axles. They're always going to bind and jerk the truck around especially in low speed turns. And that is more acute depending on how much traction you actually have, given your tires tread and width.

Is there anyway to change the advanced search function to reverse chronological order? Skipping through hits 12 at a time (from 2018!) Is infuriating... 🙂

I wouldn't say "at an odd angle". They're right where they need to be, to keep from having these fill problems. A few members have "glued" the later fill boxes behind the door, inside the bed.

We have 3G alternators. You can bring terminals to the hot to the fused post of the mega fuse holder. Actually, Gary and I both have power distribution centers. Mine is quite a bit less complex than his. 😂

Did somebody call me??...lol. Thanks Jim! Are you referring to the later brake master cylinder swap? I have done that a couple times, yes sir. In both cases, I ran all new brake lines on the trucks, and I removed that factory prop-valve (or whatever it is called) and chucked it. I'm sure they were a good idea 45 years ago, but I don't know how effective they are 40+ years later when they're all rusted out and gunked up...jmtcw;). The later master cylinder DO require that residual pressure valve for the rear port, if for no other reason that to connect the brake line...the valve has the correct size and flare for a brake line fitting. I'm not sure how you'd connect a brake like without it. As for gutting it...I can't answer...I never did that personally. I don't even know if you can. Some new master cylinders come with that residual pressure valve, and some do not. I went to the junkyard and grabbed one (a couple actually, to have a spare). PS: Lastly...if you DO chuck the factory prop valve(s) like I did, you can take the original wire and connect it to the float in the later master cylinder. That way your BRAKE light will illuminate if your brake fluid gets low, which is kinda neat...and more "modern"...at least 1990's modern. I forget which terminals on the float switch are which...there are three. Common, and NO, and NC. You'll have to run a ground wire to the common, and then connect the original prop valve wire to the normally open terminal (I think). Hope that helps?.. PS: I also ran into same issue Gary mentions with the booster push rod...better for there to be a tiny gap than any pressure on the MC at all. I have always checked and adjusted them though. "The Dr is in...". 😄 (Appreciate your insight, Cory!)

I'm still on the cheap Chinese 40 amp relay that came with my tiny fuse box....

I'm tagging Cory. He's done this a bunch of times to a 150.

Look at the documentation. My starter solenoid is 40 amps to pull and 13 amps to hold. You don't want to even think about running that through your ignition switch.... And that's why I say run a 10-12 gauge wire from the fender relay down to the starter solenoid. Ford didn't include the fender relay on the 94+ trucks to pee away money. But they did screw up, using a spade terminal down there where it's sure to get corroded.

The starter motor can (will!) backfeed the solenoid and cause it to hesitate disengaging the drive gear. In a really bad case it could hold the starter on, because the only reason to have one (except for headers) is to keep the fender relay from welding closed, and the starter from turning constantly. By using the fender relay output, you haven't accomplished the whole purpose for the mod...

GM & Mopar have been 100% hot at the starter forever.... Do NOT jumper the starter solenoid from the cable and have both coming off the fender relay. This should be explained (in detail!) in Gary's primer on PMGR upgrades so I'm not going to get into it, and I don't mean to criticize.

A friend had one of the residual pressure valves in his stock, so I’m covered if the one I ordered doesn’t have it. I’ve read conflicting info as to whether it’s ok to run this valve plus the factory proportioning valve (or combo valve it whatever we want to call it), with some saying to gut the residual pressure valve in that situation so it’s just an adapter. Also, I’ve read that it may be necessary to adjust the pushrod, but i haven’t seemed to find what adjustment is needed for that. I did find this: I’m guessing though that’s what we need for the factory master cylinder, but not what we need when running a newer master cylinder. Does it just need to be adjusted to whatever was the spec for 87-96? Multifunction valve..... At least, that's what Ford calls it. 🤷‍♂️ You can just get a fitting that adapts it, much like the fitting you need to put a normal brake line onto the rear axle splitter on the driver side. 💡 It's metric! I've always gone for an inch of stick out. Never had any idea there was an official dimension.

Did SWMBO make any type of decision? 🧐

Move all the leads one post to the left I've always had good luck with Carter pumps. (bailed when I saw Gary had replied)

That is an homage to a 'happy accident ' that Gary posted years ago! 😂 I've already told you that I will always do my best for the members of this forum. We can find you a truck emissions calibration that fits your goal for an easy to fix, stone reliable vehicle. I keep saying to people that I can fix my truck with a rock and a zip tie. That I will ALWAYS get home... And that's true! I'm here to help. Especially when I'm sitting in the flatbed at 3am with nothing else to do.

Just the fact that you are picking it up is enough. Who knows what the next generation will do. I have a member here in CT who's sig says keep your kids interested in sports and outdoor activities and they won't have time to get in trouble. So you're definitely doing the right thing!