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Well, you better hope there's a D9 crank in there and a pork chop behind the balancer!

Maybe swap mounts are the WTG? They will definitely have the engine sitting higher, which would point the tranny down. How did the fan center in the shroud, before you yanked the engine?

So, you need the mounts and heat shield Bill already showed...

They are probably L&L swap mounts and Windsor frame perches. Do you have a pic?

It doesn't work that way. With DOHC you can usually pin the phasers or gears themselves. In a pushrod V-8 you bring it to where TDC #1 has both valves closed. The cam and crank are keyed. You just slip both sprockets on together. But that guy had the cam sprocket off by one link...

I hope your ring gear is okay! It would be a big deal to have to pull the engine again. Hard to imagine they didn't ask you 'standard or automatic?' when you bought the darn thing...

Let's just find you an archetype to work from, and then find the parts it shows. Things are slow enough right now.

No, that's a straight up set. It's double roller with a single keyway. (not Hy-Vo, no bonded nylon..) If it had multiple keyways you could install it advanced or retarded (there are usually a mark next to each of the keyways, ∆ is O IIRC) He needed to pull it back off and move the cam gear over one tooth on the chain. He would have been fine. (IDK what eventually happens in the video)

You can't fix stupid.... It was painful to watch the 15 seconds I did. He has the cam gear off one tooth.

You just pull the radiator out and sit right there. A timing gasket set will come with two little cork "ears" and you cut off the pan gasket at the block with a razor. Stuff a rag around the crank gear so you don't drop a lot of garbage into the pan while you're trying to scrape the old gasket surface clean.

Hopefully you can get it all sorted out soon! I'm partially curious whether you can swap internals from a semi-float to a full-float since my full-float is open and the semi-float has an LS. But in reality, I really like the Detroit True-Trac in my Ranger, so will likely just go that route. I really just need to find a new home for this semi-float that I'll never use. Have you tried Marketplace?

You can't GET TO the pump, or the rear sump pickup with the TTB in the way. You can easily do a timing set in situ, but you can't get the pan off.

So, you're keeping the EGR and I'm going to look for a valve, the temp sensor, the delay and the limit valve? (you can't have a check valve, or the EGR would come on but never close again) I can study the various calibration codes and choose a BOM that works for you.

Must not have been in a 4x4. You cannot get the pan out of a 4wd truck with the engine jacked up, it's gotta come out. They used plastic gears right up until EFI in 88.

I'd usually use Hylomar there. (the blue, non hardening stuff developed by Rolls Royce for their aircraft engines) You didn't find any 'shards' in the pickup screen? Cork oil pan gasket? Or just the corners at the timing case, like someone had gone in to replace the chain? If it's a dealer installed set it's definitely still retarded, with likely another plastic cam gear. But I'm not looking at it, you are....

Oh yes know of both buildings and the beer store across the street from the LS building Do you know if the big LS roll is still outside the building? I did not know winter green would do that to rubber. Now if I will remember it when I need it is the real story. Dave ---- Dave. Did you ever use the original formula Hot Lap? We could SMELL a cheater a mile away in the pits.

Gary definitely has to make a notation. I didn't think anybody failed to understand that. I mean, why would they offer models specific to manual or auto?

Now I just have to deal with the fragmentation grenade!

Oh yes know of both buildings and the beer store across the street from the LS building Do you know if the big LS roll is still outside the building? I did not know winter green would do that to rubber. Now if I will remember it when I need it is the real story. Dave ---- You would be BLOWN AWAY with what Rocky Genovese has done with Darien! 🤯 ETA: His concrete empire and legacy is literally the underpinnings of all of Stamford and the surrounding area

Oh yes know of both buildings and the beer store across the street from the LS building Do you know if the big LS roll is still outside the building? I did not know winter green would do that to rubber. Now if I will remember it when I need it is the real story. Dave ---- It's condos now. Sadly the giant Life Savers rolls are gone. I passed out in those hedges more than a few times, stumbling home from Richard's. I went to Western J.H. Depending on the wind we would smell cinnamon raisin bread from Arnold's Bakers, the incinerator at the dump or Butter Rum/Pep-o-Mint/Black Cherry/whatever...

Pretty much any rubber. Like I said it's a food ingredient (maybe not all is) but it's not insanely toxic like the stuff we used to soften tires with before tire warmers

Metal bends from beneath the master cylinder to where the rubber leaves the frame to meet the fuel pump? You can get Nylon repair 'pigtails' already made through Dorman. They have either the duckbill type fitting or the 'garter' quick connect. A piece of brake line will work, if you have a way to force the nylon onto it. The engine end is a rubber line and regular hose clamp, correct?

If you wanted Weber downdrafts on a 302 meant to rev to the moon, you'd probably want an IR setup with IDA's or IDF's. But this little carb on his 4-banger is easy to tune and makes that thing scoot! 😃

There's a kid up the street with a Mazda B2000 (Ford Courier) and he has a Weber progressive downdraft on it. I thought of you and asked to take a picture.

We used to use gorilla snot when we didn't want a gasket to budge.. But I think all* of the Three Bond case sealants (Yamabond. Kawibond, whatever) is probably better today.