kramttocs

Ok, so you undid the splice. That works. Really it all comes down to isolating the High circuit from the Lo/M1/M2/resistor circuit so they can be active on their own. I should have done that in the drawing I posted since it is likely the way most will do it. I am always in the mindset of easily reverting to stock so I was deadheading one of the wires coming out of the splice and then running a new wire for the output of the resistor. Ultimately the exact same though.

Yes, the relay on the + side is what I did earlier in this thread and made the videos of. That relay is simple to wire up as it just requires cutting and placing the relay in the Br/O or O wires depending if you do it before or after the blower motor connector. I didn't add it to the diagram but we should make a completed diagram with both relays when the dust settles. Where did you cut in for your ground relay Gary? It can't be done right at the motor or else it would bypass the resistor so curious how you have it so that it only comes on when the switch is on High if not using the NC and NO relay contacts as I drew above.

Yeah, I am still unsure on if the diode is needed and where it would go so it's not in there . In just the high switch wire? Both switch wires? Motor side ground wire?

Gary - does yours not completely negate the resistor though? A 5 pin relay is the only way I can think to do this allowing the non-high speeds to be on the NC contact. Edit: I just reread the early posts in this thread and see that Bill outlined that in the post where the diode was mentioned. Edit 2: Diagram-

Hey Jim - is there a diagram for that Ford relay harness? Curious how they say to do it. Gary - so you already have the ground side relay for high in place? Did I miss that in the BB thread? Would enjoy the read and photos. Going to check it out on my truck tomorrow afternoon.

Welcome! Great looking truck

That's correct. I've read that the newer style is superior as it has more surface area with the only drawback being that it can't be effectively flushed. Well that and the fact that I couldn't find one that really fit. Hopefully the pepboys one will be the answer.

Great! Make sure to let us know the part number if it does. I've attached a document that I put together for the return of one of the failed tries on mine. The diagram was from their site and is correct for what is needed but the one I received is the same one I found everywhere else. Some differences don't matter but note the side one where the port is lower and hits the core support. That was the big one and what causes some people to space the bottom out towards the grill.

Well, let's say it makes the real impact in High. It comes into play with all levels but since the other levels aren't getting full voltage then it doesn't have the same impact.

Yeah, the recording isn't the most scientific approach for sure It made enough of a difference that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Looking forward to seeing if the ground relay makes more of a difference. It looks like I had it in Normal AC. Didn't have any vacuum or ac hooked up though. The ssvec I am using is the 000 model. I have some more info in my Camano thread but if anyone is wanting to add multiple relays it's a great option. I spoke to the Bussman engineer that designed them a couple months ago and there is an 004 model that I think would be even more flexible in a lot of installs. None of the retailers stock that model yet although I've been contacting them every couple weeks.

Glad you brought this up Dane. I did the power side relay since I was working in that area and it is easy to implement. I plan on doing the ground side at some point to offload the blower switch. Bill has some good insight on this topic as well. Let's continue this here if ok with everyone.

I hadn't ever looked at these until now (red isn't my interior) but just did and I agree. Neither of them look like nos. The dash is nice enough that once installed no one might know but still feel for the buyer at that price.

I second the high speed blower relay mod. Was driving today with it on high and the kids in the backseat were complaining about the breeze. I will be interested if you find a condenser. I tried and never could find a direct fit that didn't require either enlarging the opening on the core support or tilting the bottom of the condenser out towards the grill. Ended up cleaning and keeping the stock one but wouldn't mind having a newer spare in case. Gary - did you not have to tilt yours? Just some advice but think about who you are ordering from and their return policy just in case it doesn't match the photos or description and doesn't fit like stated.

Thanks guys! It appears the Bluno line (3rd party) isn't extremely common based on the google hits but having the BT already combined is really appealing. Especially when wanting to keep the footprint as clean as possible. That kit is just a generic GM temp sensor so no ties to Arduino. Have been looking at this Using the max resistance of 47.5 (at 150C/302F) that puts me at 105mA. At 93C/200F it would be around 24mA. I found this diagram here So are those resistors going to drop the current even more (significantly)? I = 5 / 2800 = 1.8mA 2800 being 2200 + 550 + 47.5

Arduino: I am considering this one: Bluno Mega 2560 - An Arduino Mega 2560 with Bluetooth 4.0 It has enough analog inputs and it would make for a simpler install having the BT already built in Sensors: While these are generally GM sensors (TX3 I believe is the standard name), they seem to be easier to find information for than Fords (TX61?) and are just as readily available. These would be for all the temp sensors (coolant, transmission, gvod). There is a kit that contains: You are correct about the usage and Torque being a display application. In my setup I won't have any ICVR's, right? Those are just for mechanical gauges? Since these are 2 terminal sensors I will be running a power and a ground to each. Here is where it's going to show that I have no experience with electrical circuits at this level and themistors... How many amps would one sensor pull (I feel like I am missing something obvious by asking this)? How do I figure out if I can put all of those on the single 5v pin of the arduino? The answers to the amps will likely cover this but you lost me a bit on the 16awg and the cat6 as those are very different in the awg of the wires. Let's forget the cat6 and say I will be running normal automotive wire. I can run 16awg but is that needed? Seems like most arduino sensors are running more around the 20awg and smaller wire although length is unknown to me on those. I don't think I'd go smaller than 18 for durability but I am running out of space in my firewall penetration so 18 would be preferable over 16.

Very neat!

Just to followup, I ended up going with a F2UZ-17700-A It looks the same as the larger 80's factory one but it does take a different windshield mounting plate.

It does seem like that would be inconceivable(!). I see Steve mentioned earlier about using jumper cables to directly ground one of the starter mounting bolts to the battery. Was that tried?

Thanks guys. It's always nice to find a local small town shop (upholstery in this case) that does great work.

I agree Jim. I would definitely expect something to happen when touching the battery cable to the starter. My only guess at this point would be something in the starter is fried so the positive lug is completely isolated.

I get about the same drop in RPM. Thanks!

So by that logic looks like I'd use the ones I found on summit that are 185 on / 175 off with the thermostat I am running. Appreciate it. * I was just looking at the fixed units and not the adjustable ones which might be able to do a closer spread to what you mentioned

Thanks

Sounds like it's time to pull the starter and take it in to your local auto parts store for testing.

Hijacking my own thread a bit but on the topic of electric fans, how do you know what the right thermostat switch on/off values to get? Do you match it to your thermostat or lower? I was looking into what I'd need to do this and a lot of posts said that the sensor needed to be at the bottom of the radiator vs the intake. The radiator drain plug looks like it may be a 3/8 thread so that would be convenient. I am sure all of the has been rehashed ad nauseam and I've only done about an hours worth of reading on the topic but is the consensus to have the fan run entirely based on the coolant temp? Meaning regardless of ignition being on or off? Seems like it would be beneficial to have it run for a bit after shutdown at the risk of some battery drain. I know my Ninja used to do this.