Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

kramttocs

Regular Members
  • Posts

    3,587
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by kramttocs

  1. Yep - will work fine. I bought a multipack of those awhile back (there is a thread where we discussed them somewhere). Having the fuse built in is nice for a clean look. 30amps is standard and plenty for the headlights - I'd have to check but for the fuse I think I am using a 15amp like factory. With the headlight mod you only need the 4 as you don't need a NC pin. Just make sure to grab two of them (hi/low). You can splice the two headlights together anywhere but I did mine in the headlight plug on the passenger side.
  2. The site argument sounds promising! Like clicking the 'more results from...' link in google to add the site argument to the query. Very handy.I don't see that it returns forum results though, at least in google directly but glad that you are finding an engine that is. Having a search that does both will be nice.
  3. Good deal! Hopefully this will solve it for you as well.
  4. Looks like it was 963-005D. Unfortunately I can't recall exactly how many of the long ones are in there out of the 6 and I never measured them like I should have. They were a 'need it now' thing or else I would have measured one pack and then bought that length in bulk since the packs added up quickly. John mentioned Autozone which I never tried - maybe they have them by themselves? 🤞
  5. I am pretty sure I have the package still (with the short ones in it). I'll look when I get home. Yeah - they were in a dorman orange package on a spinner display. 2500! Goodness.
  6. I was going to say something when you ordered your trees but didn't want to be Debbie Downer in case it was just my panels/doors. I ran into the same situation. On a whim I picked up a multipack from O'Reillys that had some the same length as the non-holding ones but then some longer. The longer ones did the trick so I bought a couple more packs and just replaced all of the bottom trees on both doors with them. Might not be the answer to yours but might be with a shot. Dash looks really good
  7. Love that Ranchero! Hadn't ever heard about the 79 1/2's so enjoyed reading up on them just now.
  8. Gary added the red text in his screenshot as a way to give us all common identifiers for reference. The searches are there in your screenshot - just not labeled
  9. Hmm good point. What about something like: Use this search for all areas except the forum
  10. I gotcha. We're on the same page - the forum is embedded withing the main site. I think having the two searches, each dedicated to their own portion of the overall site is pretty clear - at least after a couple searches 🤪. Thinking about it as I type, I guess having the 'search tip' that shows up with the search box contain the word 'documentation' wouldn't be a bad thing. So where it now says: Search by typing & pressing enter Have it say something akin to: Perform a documentation search by typing and pressing enter 🤔 Oh, and thanks for the poll thread!
  11. Good plan. Yes, the one for the forum I use a lot also. I am referring to the one at the top right. I don't know that I've really used it much beyond playing around today but between it and freefind, I'd vote for it (top right). There needs to be some doc search and that one fits better with the clean integration into the dropdown menu area.
  12. Hey Gary - admittedly I haven't read through this whole thread I may be the exception to the rule but I don't ever use the freefind search box in the top left. Not sure if there is a way to tell but if it doesn't get used much, can we remove it and the large grey "banner" beneath it? I don't search the doc much (the menu is intuitive enough) but I like the initial UI of the magnifying glass better than the freefind one. It fits into the site better to me. The search results though are ok. A little minimalistic after being trained by google but they work.
  13. If going with the A pillar I'd snake from the visor hole down and pull the wires up through the visor hole. Then cut the hole in the center and run the fish from the visor hole to the center hole and throw a grommet in the center hole. Don't forget to add plenty of patience
  14. Are you wanting to go back to the stock setup and get rid of the aftermarket pump? If keeping it is an option, can you see what kind of fuel pressure you are getting at the carb?
  15. Gary - do you happen to have 84-24-14? I don't see it on the TSB index page.
  16. Sorry about that. I likely made that whole bit unnecessarily confusing with my edit:nabble_smiley_beam: If you look at Gary's post where he quoted me you can still click on the original link. You are right - I noticed a few references to other articles and tsb's that would be interesting to read through. I would jot down the ones you are interested in and check out the TSB section under the Documentation menu at the top of the forum. If they aren't there (or aren't hyperlinked) post them here and Gary might be able to add them. For most electrical stuff, I head to the EVTM (under Doc > electrical and available for various years). It contains invaluable schematics but also some troubleshooting steps. If that doesn't address it, that is when the shop manuals come into play. Gary has some of these posted on relevant pages throughout the documentation section. I would see if the evtm helps but if not, let us know. We can either talk through it or can find/add the doc needed. Fortunately there isn't a shortage of 460 owners here 😀
  17. They are very handy! I got mine from harbor freight a few years ago. "50 Ft. Nylon Fish Tape"
  18. Bill - I was right there with you and was thinking the same when I read it (that's how I did my gps antenna) but then I remembered BB doesn't have clearance lights so it would require fishing a wire up/down. Which on a supercab isn't bad as you have fairly easy access to the top of the A pillar and across the cab via a 'shelf'. Not sure about crewcabs. With a reg cab though you'd had to make use of the visor hole and then find a way to get it to the newly drilled hold in the center. I can see why they recommend the B pillar
  19. Good to know. I removed my link and referenced the internal page
  20. Why not use our own? I have all of the TSB's, just don't have them scanned in. So I scanned this one in and put it on the Hot Fuel Handling tab at Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems. Even better! Thanks for adding it.
  21. Me neither! For reference (and if Gary wants to pull it into the TSB page ) it was from here [link removed - please see the Hot Fuel Handling tab here]
  22. I think this is the medium (blue dot) one. There are three. Red dot= .045 orifice Blue dot= .065 orifice White dot= .090 orifice White is indicated for cases of extreme vapor lock. Pressure is lower (easier boiling) but more cool fuel is circulated from the tank Found this on a TSB article. Wouldn't the psi increase for E3TZ-B mean it's the smaller one? I've never looked into these much. Just cleaned/blew mine out and reinstalled. If previously tested pressure at the carburetor was below 3.5 psi., install one of the following vapor separators to increase the fuel pressure. E3TZ-9N176-A gives 1.0 psi. increase at the carburetor (RED DOT). E3TZ-9N176-B gives 2.0 psi. increase at the carburetor (BLUE DOT). If the fuel pressure at the carburetor was too high or the concern still exists, replace the vapor separator with vapor separator E0TZ-9N176-B. If the pressure is still incorrect, check the fuel return line for blockage. If the return line is clear, it will be necessary to replace the pump/sender assembly. After service is completed, recheck pressure at the carburetor to confirm correction of the concern [updated - was confusing myself]
  23. This is the smallest one, right? So higher pressure?
  24. I'd stick with the four myself. Could go with m5 and drop the size a bit if needed.
×
×
  • Create New...