kramttocs

I know you said you're leaning towards the 10 relay but just wanted to point out that the powr-blok maxi fuse module is only rated for 80A, unfortunately.

Yep - mine curled back just like that. Once installed but prior to the lock strip I am thinking they changed direction and curled out giving me a little pause. Once you get the lock strip in though, they snap tight against the truck. Congrats on the tool purchase! Really looking forward to feedback on it

Welcome aboard!

Scott, what is this Lisle tool you speak of in the above quote? 47000. Around $17 on amazon. If doing it again, I think I'd get one. The glass shop guy said it makes it easy. Steve - so you take the glass inside and pull the rope from outside? Like putting the gasket on the truck first, I've never heard of this approach either. Not doubting it at all and if easier, I'll file it away for next time (kind of like the alternatives to the lubricant from out last discussion on this). Looking at the profile above though that's pulling a lot more rubber out than if you are pulling it in. Not an issue though?

As long as you have correctly sized wiring and good contact, heat shouldn't be an issue. The more wiring I do on my truck the more I like the connector approach. Contemplating swapping out the passenger side 000 ssvec box with an 004 like on the driver side and really nice to know it's just a matter of pulling the connectors and snapping them back in. Same with something like that custom made box you showed above. Those powr-bloks are a neat idea. The flex series is the one I had looked at but it's not as compact or well.. flexible. Looks like 80A is the largest premade fuse option although I wonder if you could make something work with the 2/4 stud assembly module to handle midis If I am reading it correctly for 03540551Z (2-POSITION 280 MICRO RELAY + 2 POSITION MINI® STYLE FUSE) you get 40 of them for $11.21. Doesn't seem like a terrible price but you'll just end up with a bunch of extras.

Excellent I agree with Janey that the buttons on it helps to break it up visually.

Thanks Gary - that looks great!

Thanks! I had no idea. My apologies for saying used only Will add a correction to my post above.

Someone is making the circuits? I had no idea. Do you have a link? LM?

Interesting! Looking at the profile of the gaskets, I guess maybe it is a six/half- dozen situation as far as if you use the rope to install the gasket on the body vs the glass? Possibly even easier on the lock strip version since it has the gap for 'give'. Hadn't ever thought of that direction. Glad to hear yours sealed well Jim. Really happy with the slider itself.

I did - after reading and getting some advice from here and on FTE. I only used the yellow trim tools from HF. They worked well although I haven't used the tool from Lisle to compare. It wasn't terrible but wore my fingers out since you have to push really hard. The sealant may have only been needed due to the aftermarket CLR. It comes with hard corner extensions but I am guessing they aren't quite enough. Is that painter still around?

1980 - green, with or without tach 1981+ - red, with or without tach Those are the four I am aware of but not sure how many engineering number variations there may be. I don't have any without gauges so maybe they have a different one also?

Welcome aboard!

Hey John, Overall I've been happy with the Precision stuff I've used. The only ones I tossed and went with another offering was the vent window gaskets. Haven't watched the video but general consensus is that the chrome rope on our trucks goes in after the window is in to lock it in place. Since ultimately the profiles are the same and it's coming in from the back it stands to reason that it could be done(?). With the chrome strip in though, it's going to be less flexible overall but since you are just folding the inside lip of the gasket maybe it won't have much of an impact? This graphic is from the CRL slider install doc and just adding it for the profile view. Worth noting the CRL slider is treated like a factory non-slider install so that's why it shows the wider channel used by the factory slider as incorrect. Gary - yes you could pull the lock strip out and replace it. When removing mine by just pulling it, it kept snapping into little pieces so if pulling a brittle one again I'd grab a wedge trim tool (which is what I used to install the new one also) and work it under as you pull so you aren't having to stop and start a bunch.

These use the Metri-pack 280 connectors that you will need to buy the mate for and terminate your wires in with female terminals. They do have weather seals on the connector and terminals. So with that your wires won't enter the box like you are wanting. I see your point and for looks it annoyed me a bit at first since in one harness you may have to split wires to different connectors. After using it, I prefer the plugs now myself. Makes it easier to add circuits to without having to pull the whole box. I know some users are using the boxes that have standoffs where you snap the wires/terminals directly in the bottom and those are the same terminals the fuses and relays plug into. Similar to the Ford pdb. Regarding future expansion, these can't really chain together so you are left with multiple boxes or the 32S big one. Problem I see with that one is that it's a bit too much of a tradeoff for convenience over customization. With that many relays I'd want to be able to cascade some and with the shared hot and ground buss you can't. Littlefuse makes some interlocking cases for megafuses but not sure about any that work with relays. Will do some looking. The Ford unit Gary is using may be a good fit for you? For me I am trying to find a way to use it without doing too much changing. The one below that I keep looking at I could in theory make a plexiglass backer bolt it through existing holes in my plastic fender on the passenger side then have stand offs that I can screw into to attach this box and mount it. Only problem is I dont know if these three fuses on the sides are capable of handling an alternator charging circuit. My idea was to run all my wires inside and make my attachments including with the charge wire from the alternator, the brass terminals goes through and through so I can bolt the fuse on the top down and on the under side bolt the charge wire to one brass terminal then bolt the other end of the charge wire to the other side that will go to my battery side of the solenoid. Currently I have 6 relays and 6 fuses in this box that I bought that I havent assembled yet. Which in my original layout I had two spare relays which would allow me expansion for adding two pairs of auxiliary lights to a roll bar if I decide to make that upgrade. But then I decided to go Holley Sniper EFI and I want to run all my wires to this box as well so with new plans I repurposed the small five pin relay from a choke relay to a fuel pump relay, then the other two relays that were empty are now slated to be for my AC step up and AC cut out relays so I can have my sniper idle up when the AC is turned on and have the AC shut down when I go full throttle. Now my 6 fuse/6 relay box is full and I have no room for future light expansion. Tried to find like a 8 relay but couldnt find anything I liked this 10 relay/15 fuse that I posted first is the first one I like but I am afraid when I go to wash under my hood like I do once a year that I am going to have corrosion and shorts with the circuits in the box. I figure I could take and seal the box up but I would have to make sure I make the wires for my auxiliary circuits since I wont be able to take the box apart again, but then that will force me to make a splice connection which I wanted to avoid solider/splice joints in my auxiliary wiring. I haven't seen that first one before but like the layout. Not sure you're exact concern with the 3 fuses but they look like MIDI's so unless you are going really big on your alt, you're good there. I have my 155amp alt running through a midi. As for the unit itself, it would be nice to see a max amp rating but with the direct contact via the bolt I don't see why it would have problems. Depending on the wire gauge you use for that circuit, may have to be careful to avoid flexing or stressing the plastic around the brass. Shame the Amazon reviews it has aren't great. Depending upon how you seal it up though, the looseness could possibly be taken care of. I also get your avoidance of splices (right there with you) but what about having the currently unused relays/fuses all wired into weatherpack/metripack/etc connectors? Would make swapping accessories later on really easy. Your harnesses wouldn't be quite as clean but if you planned them out well or did one accessory to one connector, it wouldn't be bad. I know suggesting a plastic bag over it during the yearly wash isn't likely what you're wanting but if it fits the bill for everything else besides that, then maybe?

Replied to you over there. Been looking at boxes for another project so looking forward to the discussion.

These use the Metri-pack 280 connectors that you will need to buy the mate for and terminate your wires in with female terminals. They do have weather seals on the connector and terminals. So with that your wires won't enter the box like you are wanting. I see your point and for looks it annoyed me a bit at first since in one harness you may have to split wires to different connectors. After using it, I prefer the plugs now myself. Makes it easier to add circuits to without having to pull the whole box. I know some users are using the boxes that have standoffs where you snap the wires/terminals directly in the bottom and those are the same terminals the fuses and relays plug into. Similar to the Ford pdb. Regarding future expansion, these can't really chain together so you are left with multiple boxes or the 32S big one. Problem I see with that one is that it's a bit too much of a tradeoff for convenience over customization. With that many relays I'd want to be able to cascade some and with the shared hot and ground buss you can't. Littlefuse makes some interlocking cases for megafuses but not sure about any that work with relays. Will do some looking. The Ford unit Gary is using may be a good fit for you?

OK if I move your post to that thread and we all can discuss these and other boxes that might work for you? Edit: actually, no need to move it - I'll just quote you over there

Never know if you don't try Wonder if google drive would behave the same. Did you embed it this way? Embed files directly into your website or blog Go to the OneDrive website. You might need to sign in with your Microsoft account. Pick the file you want to embed by selecting the check box in the upper-right corner of the file. Select Embed at the top of the page, and then choose Generate. Copy and paste the code into the code of your website or blog. https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/office/embed-files-directly-into-your-website-or-blog-ed07dd52-8bdb-431d-96a5-cbe8a80b7418

Just one option but no secret I am a huge fan of these. Actually spoke to the designer again today asking if an 'outside the box' idea was possible. Great guy.

Chrome on my android gives me a redirect blocked message saying I can allow if desired. After the forced redirect with no way back that I ran into earlier today on my laptop browser, I have no desire to allow it

I would entertain the idea of having a glass shop put it in. Not at all saying that because it's a difficult install - takes some time but isn't bad. I am saying that because mine (gasket from Dennis Carpenter) leaked a little in the bottom corners. Called a glass shop and they knew exactly why and knew where to add a dab of sealant. This was with a new CRL slider so not apples to apples but still something I'd think about. Mine had obvious corners in it so if yours doesn't, placing that seam bottom center sounds like as good a starting place to dry fit as any. Given the cold weather that would be another reason I'd check into a shop. As has already been said - lock strip goes in last. There was a thread recently with some better alternatives to the soap and water mix.

Well done. Those look great on these trucks!

Sounds like you're having fun 1) where can I get a Dash Cluster "circuit board" (I know it's not board, but not sure what to call it)? Junkyard, parts truck, ebay, etc. Basically the theme is "Used" UPDATE: please see further down as these are available new 2) is the Tach still available (aftermarket, used or NOS)? Yes to all three but also depends upon if you are wanting to keep it in the cluster. Aftermarket in the cluster I've only seen with the digital clusters (like Dakota Digital VHX). Not in the cluster and you've got a lot of aftermarket choices. For a direct swap in your cluster, it's back to used or [if lucky and patient ]NOS on ebay. I would ensure first that you need one and that it isn't all due to the circuit board. 3) Where can I get a (factory looking) Radio (I only need AM/FM, but I assume a Cassette player would be built-in an OEM replacement. But I don't have any cassettes) that fits the stock opening? I don't want to cut the trim panel. Some neat options here. There are new retro style ones available that incorporate bluetooth or you can have yours rebuilt (a member here that has done that). Or back to the used alternative

You're absolutely right - if angled down and not blinding anyone then not an issue. I am mixing my light types. Plus I wouldn't want the switch to be on the 'High On', you meet someone, dim your headlights and now on low beams you don't have fog. Vice versa. I like Bob's plan for the double throw implementation.