kramttocs

same here, I personally how ever went with 6 point hex on my ARP fasteners as you can always put a 12 point socket on a 6 point bolt but you cant put a 6 point socket on a 12 point hex. For me I like to retain the option of socket choices if I am in a pinch. I thought of that stuffing the tank with something like fuel cell foam. Wasnt sure if that would cut down on the fuel volume or not. Never really owned or messed with fuel cells before. ARP stuff is incredible and the stainless is addictive. So be careful - you'll start with the engine dress up kit and next you'll have replaced almost every nut and bolt on the truck with them

Welcome aboard!

Gary's right about the spring. When I refurbished mine it uncoiled but wasn't bad putting it back together. Once you take a look at the innards, there's not much to the whole assembly and in addition to cleaning it also gives you the opportunity to wind it a little tighter if you want.

Jim - do you use T4 15w40 or T4 10W30? Year around?

Congrats! Glad to hear it was uneventful (in a good way).

Yes, great work! You got a lot accomplished this weekend

Sorry, I mean that while you are needing a Hot At All Tines I only needed a Hot In Run. So I created a jumper from a HIR buss to 13 then went from the other leg of 13 to the gvod. So the same thing as you can do, just different source buss. I don't see a need to split 7 from 12 so I'd just use 13 (or 10) since it is empty on both legs. Same end goal but a little less work. Since you have the spare fuse box you would just pull two single terminals from it to use. I have some screenshots in the Resources >factory wiring locations of this and think it'd be great to add yours once you finalize it. I like this approach and today I've actually been doing the same work to make use of 10 for another purpose.

on giving it a dedicated fuse. How about leaving 7 alone and using 13? This is what I did for my gvod module but just used a different source buss.

Yeah, just a mistype. Fuse 6 is Hot in Accy or Run. You want 8 for Hot At All Times. Let me rephrase to ensure we are all aiming for the same goal: Whether it comes from another fused circuit or not, do you want the module power to have a dedicated fuse? fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => 10A fuse => security module OR fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => security module To me that's what needs identified first.

Glad you pointed the clock circuit post out. I'd missed that one on my phone and just saw the 'pull it from elsewhere'. Hmm... First, LG/Y out of fuse 8 but I follow you This would separate out the locks from the module but it would still have other loads combined with the security module after a fuse. That's what I would avoid. Again, I don't really have a great reason for it but I'd keep it on its own fuse. I am not really concerned with having the locks, lights, and module on the same parent circuit as I don't see much of a risk difference in putting the module on fuse 8 vs fuse 7. Both run the risk of something else shorting and disabling the module. So it really comes down to whether or not you want the security module to get its own fuse. If not, then the clock circuit would work fine but then again so would combining all 4 into one (aside from 15A vs 10A). Wish there was a better argument one way or the other on it. Edit: there is always the option of feeding it directly by using Fuse 10 or 13. Little more involved though.

Top notch on all of it John!

That's correct about the daisy chaining as well as if 12 blows then 7 would be defunct. But it would have been the same risk if you were to combine all 4 fuses together. Putting the module on a separate circuit entirely does allow you to retain the horn alert so I like it

Bill - that mounting location is really slick! Gary, Does the parking light circuit not flash with lock/unlock? Not saying it would go over the 15A even if so but just checking. I thought about this while driving home earlier trying to come up with a reason not to combine all of them. I can't so the following is more of how I would do it and less of the way I think it has to be done. I see no reason not to combine the locks and light. In fact, my module's harness has the two lock circuits going into the same fuse already. I like keeping the module fuse separate though. I really like handling it all in the fuse block and would run a wire from the unused side of Fuse 7 for the module. This is the unused hot at all times slot but is dependent on the presence of Fuse 12 (locks). So it's very similar to what you are thinking of but would have a downstream 10A for the module at the expense of running another wire from the fuse block to the module.

Nope, you've got it .The springs are attached so without them connected at the fender the hood would just fall and needs supported in some way. This could be done any which way that safely works. Could be propped from below or strapped from above. I am with you - wouldn't want to remove the hood either and no reason to in this case.

Great! Fender removal and install isn't anything big. Especially since the doors and hood hinges won't be touched. Only pain is if the speed nuts break and spin. But it's all a matter of how far you want to go with it. I had the entire frame exposed front and rear so painted it all. Some only paint what is seen when looking around the tires. I don't recall where you are located but that would impact my decision some since in some regions painting the frame is purely cosmetic whereas in others it's preventative.

Agreed. I've always thought those on column illuminated indicators are a neat touch. Can't think of anything else on the column that would be worth replacing if it's working correctly now.

Perhaps that is things like the glove box lock, spare tire lock and hood lock? I've always seen the add-on harness include both circuits

No, I like the clip itself. I was just referring to the finger tab that allows you to pop the clip off. It's a minor thing and wouldn't be a deal breaker for anyone ever. Just thinking it isn't really needed. Maybe in-hand, it is though.

Yep - GM/HEI with external coil. Now that you know what it is and how it differs from stock when looking for parts - if it works, it works That blue box is similar to add on speed control modules

Learned something new. Notice them every now and then and briefly wonder 'why?' But never looked it up.

GM/HEI with external coil?

It makes the noise 1 time and that's it? Hot start, cold start, or both? Can you feel it in the clutch pedal or shifter or is it noise only? I'd think the starter trying to engage again would be more identifiable though I've only ever had it not disengage. Putting in an fmr seems worthwhile as a test. Does the zf5 have an inspection plate you can take off?

Gotcha. Sounds like what the fuel pump relay snaps into. A black plastic hood piece that holds two relays. There is a yellow wire in that area that is the same as the cab yellow wire Jim is talking about on the passenger side that feeds the cab. It starts with the fuse link on the FMR (fender mounted relay), goes through the firewall on the passenger side and then splits into a few circuits. One branch goes through the firewall on the driver side and is hooked to the junction block or the aux battery relay if so equipped. The fuel pump relay is powered by a fuse link on the fmr but other relays like trailer and aux lighting have fuse links on the junction block or aux solenoid. That's factory though so yours could very well be using the yellow circuit direct to the relay. Can you test any of the Hot At All Times spots in the fuse box?

Black box unit? There is generally a junction post there but can't think of a black box. Photo?

I think I'd forgo the easy release tabs. Would make it easier to slide into the panel if already installed on the door and these won't be something anyone will be taking on and off often.