kramttocs

If they did/do exist, I am not a fan of the drop in ones that I've had. They've worn the paint around the fenders, screws come loose, warp, and if you haul mulch or something like that you have to take them out to clean under them. My truck had a very, very early rhino liner in it. Despite the age, it held up very well. I pulled it all up and am planning on putting the UV protected lineX back although I haven't done a ton of research yet on the options out there. I've never done a diy job but I would still consider that over a drop in.

My wife agrees with you. Normally I wouldn't put them on but with two little kids and the height of the 4x4 I think they will be needed. I am on the fence with the Eddie Bauer ones. My hitch is that they look streamlined which is anti-everything else on the bullnoses. Plus I think they might look a bit short on a supercab. Appreciate the idea though.

Thanks for that diagram. Yeah, I didn't mean that I wanted to put the tape on mine but rather that I'd seen both and they looked similar enough to be factory. But the one with the tape had ridges going longways with at least one wider space for the tape. I am positive that was on a bronco now that I think about it.

Camano came with the 4 piece diamond tread running boards that I removed the rear set from as I didn't care for that look. I know I'll need some kind of step after the restore so just wanting to see what you guys are think/have/like. I like the ones it had (not sure if they are deezee or not) so odds are and since I have them and the holes all line up, I'll put the front set back on after some cleaning but I'd like to see what other recommendations are. At the jy there is a truck exactly like mine that has the same running boards (again no deezee label). Were these factory/dealer or just a common add on? I've also seen some at the jy (might have been broncos) that had the grip strip on them.

Also, the bushings for these are readily available and reasonably priced. I replaced mine after coating the lever just the other day.

You, too! Always like this part of that song: Now the boys all thought I'd lost my sense And telephone poles looked like a picket fence. They said, "Slow down! I see spots! The lines on the road just look like dots." Speaking of music, growing up me and my sisters spent many hours in my dad's 84 6.9 supercab hauling grain to the elevator at 20mph. For a couple of those summers the Shell Rotella promo Farther Down The Road was a big deal (to us at least) and that series will forever be the music that sounds the best in a bullnose to me. I've put together a Spotify playlist from a number of the cassettes and am looking forward to reminiscing a little once Camano is back on the road.

Our 88 F150, 94 F350, and 95 F350 farm trucks are all manual and were that way when we got them (all used). Maybe depends upon the environment the hubs are exposed to? Most truck conveniences don't seem to last too long in this usage :)

They had auto locking hubs in 81?

Personally, as much as I like the Bronson one, I would vote to leaving the flyout with just containing the basic 'head' style options

Doh! You got me again (Ok, I do like the clapping one...)

Just read through this thread. Please, whatever you do - keep the Bronson one!! Kept cracking up at work every time I scrolled down and it became visible. As for the others, I am more of a minimalist I guess from back when you had the option of colon, semicolon, D, (, and ).

My 1980 with the stock starter on the 400 had that problem intermittently (starter solenoid would get stuck until I pulled the power or hit the solenoid hard enough) so just last week I swapped the junky one out with a motorcraft unit (possibly just a little less junky ). I think we are on the same page that swapping to a pmgr setup is an improvement. My whole point was just that whether you swap to a Precision pmgr, Powermaster, or stay with stock the roadside issue wouldn't be significant.

This site (I won't list a link as I don't exactly know what the site is for) listed: Innocent, willful, arrogant, domain, and enlightened. I think I prefer your four though :)

I am also using the TCI pan on my c6 and am very happy with it. I didn't ask them about it but the shop that just rebuilt my transmission (and thus reinstalled the TCI pan) also used a cork gasket. So maybe there is something to it?

That's the best kind of ignorance there is! A complete rabbit trail and way off topic, but your comment got me thinking just what other kinds of ignorance there are Stumbled across a website that listed 5 different kinds of ignorance. Who knew? I dare say I feel a little less ignorant about ignorance now.

You got me curious so I just ran out to the shop to look at the instructions that came with the powermaster unit to make sure I wasn't just making stuff up. They actually say the jumper between the starter posts is an option ("not included but can be made from a piece of 12awg wire and two ring terminals" [their wording]). I don't doubt the warnings on the ones you have installed though. This unit's instructions are the only I've ever read so didn't really think about one option being safer than the other.

No...no you didn't. Haha so I guess I can keep installing motorcraft parts in blissful ignorance?

changing from rocking pole to PMGR requires a trigger wire to the starter, and a live at all times starter cable. Swapping an OEM starter on the side of the road would (at least) require moving things around. .... Unless you were smart enough to ask for a starter for a '95. Be careful. I've learned many new 'facts' about "OEM" and "Motorcraft" parts in the past couple of days. I'm afraid to use ANY parts now, for fear they will infect my truck. It doesn't require it (use a jumper and no difference to the truck wiring at all) but it is an option and no doubt easier on the fender solenoid. Either way, I still wouldn't consider this little wiring consideration to be a deal breaker. That said, everyone will need to decide that for themselves regarding what they feel comfortable with in an emergency situation. Be careful of using Motorcraft parts??? Not saying they are what they used to be but (knock on wood) they've always served me better than house brand. I am intrigued by what you are referring to - care to elaborate? My life schedule doesn't lend itself well to keeping up with forums as much as I'd like but sounds like I missed some interesting information.

Powermaster, OEM, later model PMGR OEM... if any of them fail on the road, I'd say one would get any starter from wherever they could to get home :) Changing the starter doesn't require any real changes to the wiring that would prevent swapping from one brand to another. I don't know of too many people that would refuse to buy a store brand while stuck on the side of the road. I understand at a high level what you are saying and I am all for buying local but I wouldn't not buy a good product just because I couldn't get it locally. As another example, there are certain parts that I personally will only use motorcraft (like starter solenoid) but that doesn't mean if it failed on me while out somewhere that I wouldn't swap in a store brand to get me back home. That's not to say that it's not a good idea to plan ahead. Years ago I swapped out my 65 Mustang's points to a Pertronix setup but I still keep a set of points in the glovebox so I can easily swap back if needed on the road.

Love the color both inside and out! The fawn interior is my favorite.

Here's the DEI one that just came in the mail today. It's pretty much what you'd expect. The full size version is something like 2 inches wider and 8 inches longer. I don't know anything about the later model stock pmgr starter or how it's clocked but when the time comes I'd check out powermaster as an option. May be more $ but the clocking helped get mine away from the headers and still avoid the transmission cooling lines.

Yep - I've never wrapped any for that fear since around here, just looking at metal makes it rust so no reason to help it out. Based on the install/wiring process alone, I am a big fan of the pmgr starters. So much more room and easy to clock them away from the exhaust. Although for $20 and a 5min install I'd still consider the shield at least until the current starter goes out. The shield could then be cut to work with the pmgr starter if desired.

Granted, it is a sight unseen purchase of a 35yr old truck (I have nothing at all against the process, I bought my latest one the same way) so I wouldn't hold the dealer all that responsible for stuff like that. I'd say all in all, the OP did really well. I see more trucks than not with janky wiring and unknown switches under the dash. One of my 85's came with a toggle switch to start the truck under the dash. Note I say toggle and not push-button. Accidentally hit that once and it was enough motivation to get the key working again. :)

Heat wrapping the header tube closest to the starter may be another option (if they aren't coated) but the starter shield is pretty simple to install so I'd lean towards that option.

Sounds like heat soak to me. I just purchased a DEI Versa shield for the starter on my 460 with headers. Haven't installed it yet (or even fired up the rebuilt 460) but it sounded like good insurance for my new starter. I believe Summit sells a shield for the full size starters (I bought the micro version) for right around $20.