kramttocs

I'd looked at those pages earlier but didn't see anything (aside from the E3TZ part number) related to these. Going off the years though, I would expect to see more flat. My 84, 85, and 86 for sure have the round style. I never knew there was a flat style until I ordered a set from lmc and thought they sent me the wrong part. The next time I went to the jy I looked at quite a few bullnoses and they all had the round style. I know it's not really a big deal, I was just surprised to see that the flat style came out in 83. Also, just to be sure - I am not talking about the support straps. It just dawned on me those could be considered flat (bar) vs round (cable) also.

The hoop part that mounts to the bed. I see the round style by far more often in the jy. I'm fact I don't know if I've ever seen the flat style on an 80-86 truck in the jy and all of mine are round. Looking at the parts number in the doc it's an E3TZ number for which there is a listing on eBay and it's the flat style. What does everyone have on theirs? One better than the other?

https://supermotors.net/getfile/687494/thumbnail/lkmtrs.jpg Because it's quicker, easier, cheaper to mount them with 1 fastener than with several. And so the operating rod can be removed from the latch later for service. On the assembly line, the lock motor is attached to the latch, and they're installed together. The last thing to go in is the common 1/4" pop rivet to hold the lock motor to the door skin. In later vehicles, the motor's rod cannot be disengaged from the latch while both are attached to the door skin - it's a Z-bend instead of an L. But if you want to use the later motors, just cut that last leg off so it can be removed like the original. Definitely not complaining with how they designed it but seems like the quickest, easiest, and cheapest for ford would be to have done away with the swivel. If the rivet is the last thing installed then no need for the swivel. And removal/reinstall of the rivet could just be part of the maintenance to get it out. Again, better for us that the swivel is there on the early models for sure, just saying... I didn't realize a nut on the outside of the door would clear so good to know.

You got it - they are the part on the actuator there. The actuator snaps onto them and they themselves are riveted to the door under the latch. I haven't looked - new ones may come with although not sure why they would since they are removable. The factory rivet is a weird split out thing you can see in the uncoated one. Think I answered the swivel part though. I'd assumed the rod had enough play to install in the door latch assembly even after the actuator is mounted but it feels pretty firm. So would make sense that you mount it askew and then rotate it into the hole in the retainer.

Adding these (and power windows) to Camano. Cleaned them up and had a couple questions. I was planning on using stainless steel Allen button head bolts to mount them vs the rivet. Curious what everyone else uses. Other question being: why do they swivel? I didn't really play around with them as I was pulling them at the jy.

Bumperettes - is that the official term for those? I like it. I've always called them Horns. But we also call the vent windows: wing-wangs 😁 Yes, it uses the same holes and same capped bolt for the bottom mount. Has the same fitment as the bumperettes.

Picked this one up at the jy today. Will have to find or make some rubber bumpers if I ever use it. There were some others there on bullnoses - some homemades, a nice universal looking one and then one that looked similar to this one. It had a Mr. Pickup sticker on it so mine and the one in the listing could be from them.

These aren't Ford right? Ford only officially had the push bar style? Not the grill guard/headlight surround type? I've seen a few variations at the jy like this but all slightly different. Black pads, no pads; center having expanded metal vs horizontal bars, etc. The black pad versions look really good with the padded bumpers no. Just a popular add on so multiple manufacturers back then?

Nice find. We have had frequent issues with our 95 1 ton because of this. The metal where the handle attaches ends up stretching enough to where the linkage doesn't work right. We repaired and reinforced ours but no doubt this is a cleaner solution.

From the site: Tuscany is a Ford Authorized Specialty Vehicle Manufacturer. As such, all retail pricing and retail sales must be conducted with a franchise Ford dealership. We work with Ford dealerships from coast-to-coast who can help with your Tuscany purchase

http://www.drivetuscany.com/tonka/

My paint guy agrees with you Anything beyond cleaning out and reapplying seam sealer?

I don't think I've seen a van's full dash with that oak pattern but I do like the look of it on the horn pad. No offense to any burlwood fans out there but I wish they would have done this oak instead :)

Now that's neat (and a well done video). The holes in the doors make a lot of sense as does it being runny enough to flow down the front fender cavities. Just got back from the paint shop dropping off my trim pieces and talked to the painter about this. Not surprisingly, he knew exactly what I was asking about and pulled out a can/wand of the 3M Cavity Wax that he likes to use. So that takes care of the fenders and doors. I'll take care of the sill plate thresholds and inside cab corners once it is back in my possession. Thanks a lot guys!

I'm late today...mainly because I slept-in until 5:15am (Atlantic time) and then had to hook up my trailer to bring to work with me so that I can get somebody to weld a fender back on for me. I didn't have my normal coffee time at the computer this morning. Anyway... I'm a big fan of rustproofing spray...it is pretty much a necessity here if you want anything to last. I usually get our cars done annually, and I plan on having part of my truck done when it the painting is all finished (I'm dropping off the stripped cab/chassis next week). The rustproofing shops here even have body colored plugs they use now which aren't as obvious as just plain black. Now, there are two schools of thought on rustproofing around here. Some people prefer (and promote) the thick gooey stuff that you spray on and it pretty much stays where you put it. Then there are the guys that like the runny stuff that drips and creeps into every crack and crevice. The downside to the runny stuff is that it makes a mess...and of course it drips. I like the runny stuff myself. On my Bullnose, I'm going to be pretty selective on where I rustproof it...it is not a daily driver, and it likely won't get driven very often in any kind of bad weather, and certainly not in the winter. I'll be spraying the inside of the front fenders, the inside of the doors and cab corners, the underside of the cab, and the inside of the frame C-channel. I'll also do inside the tailgate (need to drill a couple hidden holes), and I'll spray the front and rear sills of the bed. I already rustproofed the areas where the wood is sitting...I did this just before I sat the wooden floor into place. I'm waiting until the whole truck is finished...likely in a couple weeks time, and I'll get the spraying done and then leave it outside for a few sunny days to let it drip. Will you be able to get to the insides of the front fenders after assembly? This runny stuff - when used inside the front fenders and inside the doors is it a 'permanent' coating? I can see getting the underside of the cab and the frame getting done annually but wouldn't want to have to pull the door panels yearly.

Very true! Meant that more generally than to this specific case - absolutely wanting to prevent rust for as long as possible since this will be a daily driver in all weather. Trouble getting to sleep last night and even more trouble getting up today after the 3 hours I did get :)

Oh no worries :) I just like getting as many opinions as possible and then weigh them all out. Mainly to make sure what sounds like a good idea in my head doesn't have some flaw that I have overlooked. I won't be hunting you down if I do something you recommend and my life all of the sudden plays out like an old country song. And what's the fun in owning one of these if you don't have to fix/redo/rinse/repeat something on it all the time?

Thanks. I have always been hesitant on the undercoating also due to the inability to see behind it so I'll check out the rustoleum product. Edit: just did and is it the same as flex seal aerosol? I used that in my 80's cowl as a quick fix and liked how it flowed out. I wondered about the real benefit of those duck bills. If they are just for mice (?) then I'd rather take my chance with the mice. I was going to go with the mass backing on the carpet. My thought process was that: 1. Would provide some of the benefits for heat/sound 2. Wouldn't be adhered to the floor so I could check under it/easily remove if necessary 3. Would provide a barrier between the jute and the floor pan so moisture would have to evaporate up and not soak down "Fenders rot in the front back corners and above the rear wheels. Spray up behind the plastic wheel liners, and consider drilling some big holes in the rear metal fender arch support. " My fenders are at the paint shop right now - you don't happen to have anything showing what you mean for these, do you? 1. Front back corners 2. Behind plastic wheel liners 3. Drilling hold in rear metal fender arch support Are all three of those regarding the front fenders?

After the paint is done and while the cab is still stripped I was wondering what you guys thought about these items in regards to undercoating. Goal being rust prevention. 1. Inside the door bottoms. Stick something like putty knives or wood shims up the drain holes, spray the undercoating along the door bottom on the inside and then pull out the spacers while still wet. 2. Cab corners. Do these rust out from inside or outside the cab? If inside, spray undercoating in the corners. 3. Door sill trough/channel. Tape off and spray inside the trough. 4. Inside the fenders anywhere? Any other places that would be good to hit with undercoating? Cowl was already done in body color undercoating.

Haha sorry. Got pulled into something at work and never got a chance to create the other thread. I'd read where you used those spreaders and have always been planning on that but on the drive to work this morning I thought of leather. Good point on the absorption. No need to make it a maintenance part.

Edit: moving this from the lounge and will start a new thread for it

Really like those stainless headers. I was thinking someone asked awhile back if Mustang headers would fit...

Random question: if left in constant contact, would plain leather stock damage auto paint? So no dye or anything.

I blame it on searching on my phone 😁 http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td8652

Thanks. Went through the exterior section but didn't realize the literature section had that brochure in it. Now to track down the number.