kramttocs

Yeah, let me put together what I've got regarding what is missing and I'll send it your way.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2306/Common_100A_Mini_Grounding_BusBar_-_6_Gang I didn't know newer trucks ran wiring through there but that makes me feel better. I was trying to figure out if there was a reason factory didn't (aside from labor) that would mean I shouldn't also. Now that I know that I going to take another look and see just how much I can run through there.

Haha yeah. If it would have been 16 I probably would have left it. The 18 just felt so thin that it was bugging me adding to it.

Need to take some photos as I haven't added any in awhile. Had some comp time so took the day off to work on some more wiring. Took longer than planned doing the headlight relay but it's all done now and working great. I ended up running the headlight wiring thorough the channel at the top of the core support. It's electrical tape wrapped and then ran through some nylon sheathing so should be protected. Had some grommets that fit in the holes on each end to protect against those edges. I think the factory connectors for the fuel pump harness that goes over the radiator are all too big to fit in the holes but may try it with the trailer one as it cleans it up a little. Also installed the HVAC jumper that was spliced into and fused for the gvod module. I haven't ran all of the other wires for the gvod but I plan to run it in inactive 1:1 mode anyways for awhile so I can get some mpg values before I turn it on for some comparison. While on the topic of wiring, I pulled a couple firewall grommets from some computer controlled trucks at the jy a few months ago and finally got to use one today. These are the grommets above the drivers side valve cover that have a mess of wires in them. I removed all the wires and am using this for any of my firewall penetrating add on wires. I am using some stainless steel harness clamps bolted to various bolts (like gas pedal or passenger side dash supporting bracket)that stick through the firewall to route the wires safely away from the engine to either side as needed. Will have to find a way to seal the grommet when done as I won't have as many wires as factory. I installed it today because I ran the ground wire to my in-cab ground bar. The blue seas ground bar screwed to the center dash support base without any modifications - while it wasn't dead on, there were two factory holes close enough that the screws got started and could draw it in tight. This has given me a good solid ground point where I don't have to stack a bunch of ring terminals together. The bar was grounded already by the screws into the cab but I ran the dedicated ground wire anyways. I have several more grounds needed than factory with the gvod, led flashers, remote entry, automatic window module, brake controller, etc and since any removable metal (like the dash skeleton) where things were grounded previously was either painted or powder coated I didn't want to have to scrape it off. This photo is from awhile back as all of the screws are about filled up now.

I was hooking up the choke wiring today and was going the route of the 460 fuel pump relay wire. I'd mentioned earlier in this thread that the load on that wire is minimal since it was used for just the relay but I got to looking at it and looks like that is only 18awg wire. The 15amp fuse it hooks to is also used for some buzzers and indicators. While it would likely be fine, since Holley says to use a 10amp fuse and online resources say the choke can pull 7amps initially and then taper down to 1.5ish, I started having second thoughts about adding more to that size of wire. Ended up going the relay route using 18awg for the trigger and 12awg for the load. 12awg is definitely overkill but I went with it due to the length of the run as I am running it across the core support and then to the engine alongside the same harness as the distributor. Again, it may all be unnecessary and the 18awg may work fine but I just wanted to report back since I made that comment about the added load being fine previously and ended up going against it.

I picked up a 3 row for the 460 awhile back off eBay. Haven't tried it yet so can't speak to the performance but quality is good. There is a 'brand' name in the aluminum ones that I can't recall now but I called them after seeing the other listings that looked identical and they told me theirs were all made overseas now so I figure they are all the same. The one I bought came with an aluminum cover/shroud with two electric fans in them for a few dollars more. Not planning to use them with the 460 though.

We shall see. I am planning to install them in Camano although with an 86 I've had a hard time finding the exact color since all of the tan 86 trucks have had a/c around here that I've looked at. Back when I sent off the HVAC gaskets to the Detroit guy, I included a set of of the floor vents since the gaskets on the sets I have a pretty dry and crusty. There is a gasket that goes against the cab metal and then there is a gasket that the door slides against. The two halves are held together by melted pins which are easily ground down and the halves split apart. He made gaskets for them that you can purchase but the problem is that I think one of my emails to him got lost because he didn't realize that the inner gaskets are different for the sides. So the set has two of the same which I think can be made to work but aren't right. I can't recall the specifics and the gaskets are up in storage right now. I've emailed him a couple times over the past few months and resent him the needed gasket but haven't heard back from him. I want to use them in combination with the rear slider on nice days.

Just to have it mentioned here: the plate has some tabs on it that the ring (interior side of plate) has slots for and clamps it in place. Are you guys asking about the plate itself or the rubber that is molded over it?

Nice progress today. Were the cables hung up on something? I wondered the same about the brake switch when I was installing it a few weeks ago. Everything is moving together so how is the contact made? The flat part in combination with the rotation makes sense. Also, I saw your email today. I was going to take a better video this afternoon since I had the day off and was working on the truck but forgot. I think a better video could be made for public viewing than my rambling one :). If one could take a video with the cluster not installed it should show people a better view from up top in combination with underneath. That diagram actually does do a good job showing it though.

Too much enjoyment driving it that you won't want to take it down again?

There was no "Lariat" package for 1983 or 1984. The top of the line trim was simply the "XLT." The "XLT Lariat" was re-introduced in 1985. Thanks. Never knew it disappeared for those years.

Yes, very good eyes The bed I noticed but didn't pick up on the rest. 84 didn't have the Lariat option that year?

That is really nice!

Thanks Gary. I didn't think I would be at risk with the amps and length but I second guess myself on this stuff. Yes, when the PO did the relay mod they bought some headlight jumpers and must have tossed the factory ones. Motormite 85810 is what I found from the number on the block. I'll remove the jumpers in there that were butt connected to the relays and snap my new ones in (tanged).

Glad that helped and that it won't require much disassembly to get back on track. It being caught on something makes sense. Enjoy your trip!

Haha that does roll off the tongue better.

Has been cold the last two evenings so did some truck wiring work inside the house. Got the choke jumper (off oil pressure switch wire) and the GVOD jumper with fuse (off HVAC dash wire) done so just need to plug them in when it warms up. On to redoing the headlight harness since I am going from four relays to just two. The factory wiring was already cut for the relays so I added some mp280 connectors to each side. The drivers side will get capped off and the passenger side will go to the relays. For the connector on the headlight I am avoiding splices there so I ordered some tabbed, uninsulated female terminals. Unfortunately I didn't expect there to be multiple widths so I have a bunch of 1/4 ones now... I reordered the correct width and those came in from Summit today. Fit on the headlight tabs is great. The two packages I ordered are below. Because I am using 12awg I wasn't sure which I would use. The 12awg txl fits fine in the 'single' one and two wires fit fine in the double. Here's my question - any reason why I shouldn't use the double in the passenger side headlight connector to be the junction for the drivers side vs having the two power wires join at the relay? The only downside I can think of would be that the power wire between the relay and the passenger plug would be carrying the load of two headlights. That will be something like 3'. I don't want to risk too much heat at the passenger headlight terminal. Hoping the 12awg will prevent that though. Thoughts?

I don't remember any AMC having "XLT" badging. SX, DL, SST and AMX on the 71-74 Javelins as the 68-70 AMX was a model is what I remember off the top of my head. Dave --- There have been mentions of these over the years at FTE. Sounds like not only a dealer thing but also just regional. West coast I think? Due to the 'gold'. I recall mention also of a dealer Cajun-something badge that I'd really like to see. (Missed your post Gary so didn't mean to just repeat what you said about them )

Great to know on both both accounts! Direct bolt in and just need some wire connector modifications? TheScatch - my dad always said the same in his 79 F250 Since you posted that I've been trying to think of the other phrases regarding manual windows but have been drawing a blank. One had to do with arm or muscle power and the other was for the lack of a/c. Something like 2-65 a/c. Meaning 2 windows down driving 65mph. Those aren't quite right and it's bugging me.

Just got home so going to look for some videos/photos. Did take a quick under the dash video but it's not the greatest. The large conduit covered section of wire that comes from the left goes over bracket (up near the bottom of the cowl) and comes down through the hole in the top. From here the ignition circuit hooks up on the top of the column along with some other connectors like the turn signal. It then goes under the bracket on the right side and continues on. From the right side the cruise control vacuum hose comes in through the hole on the right side, makes an upside down U and hooks into the dump valve. This was on the automatic but I looked at the 85 manual and it was the same. What is the conduit covered long length of wire going horizontal beneath the whole assembly in your photo? I don't recognize it.

I am sure she will be there this year again to lend a hand What about applying a bead of the sealer on the inside of the firewall instead of on the column? Or really even applying it from the engine side and working it in would work also. I have some photos of how the wiring went in that area before the tear down on my truck and could take some now but not sure if they are what you need as it sounds like yours are quite a bit different? Mine are all above but yours are intended to go below? Sorry, I don't think I am up to speed with all your wiring changes.

Appreciate that - sounds like a great parking lot mini-project for the end of September Seam sealer sounds like a great fit for that purpose.

Came home at lunch to find my summit delivery. No quite as much wasted space as yours but not far off :) I guess my point would be that with the consumer paying a flat rate (again, based on my experience with summit) does it matter the size of the box (environmental impact aside)? If it was a calculated per item cost then it would but then we would pay a lot more than $10 for large/heavy items.

I may be missing the point also but in all of the sub-$100 orders I've placed from Summit the shipping is always $9.99. Doesn't matter if a single little part, multiple parts, square box, long box, direct-from-manufacturer or from multiple warehouses. I am sure some parts have an over-sized fee but I've never ran into that. I've never considered that they are overcharging me on shipping small items but rather that it's a flat-rate approach and I can choose whether one item is worth $10 shipping or if I need to add more things to justify it for me. So yes they might make money with the shipping on your item but they might lose it on the next guy. Edit: I think I see what you are saying now also - use more appropriate boxes and save everyone money. I agree with the previous post (missed it being added while I was replying) that it's just easier to use only a few standard box sizes vs trying to fit the packaging to the item.