1986F150Six

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1985-86-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Midship-Fuel-Pump-Sender-Assembly-E5TZ-9275-H/293219260503?epid=1289636444&hash=item44453ad857:g:VBYAAOSwUqpddaa9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1981-FORD-TRUCK-F-SERIES-NOS-CAB-CORNER-MOLDING-EITZ-1029315-AA/254349545731?epid=1317834023&hash=item3b386a1103:g:os4AAOSw0G9dbu7K

Nice find, Cory!

Welcome to the forum!

You now have 11,500 posts, Gary!

Very nice work!

Today, I was told about a situation where when filled with 6 quarts of oil [the correct amount with new full sized oil filter], the truck's engine registered about half way between 1 qt. low and full. This has been discussed previously on our forum, but I think it will be easier when searching if the subject is specifically about this topic. I have owned 3 Ford trucks and have found that when filled, the dipstick did not reflect the 6 quarts as being full. Next time you change the oil, park on an even surface and make sure all oil has drained. I usually start with a warm engine, remove the drain plug and then grease the front end and u-joints and check the air pressure of the tires. That gives plenty of time for the oil to drain before replacing the drain plug. Next, remove the oil filter and replace with a new one with anti-drain back check valve [i.e. Motorcraft FL-1A]. Pour in 5 quarts of appropriate weight oil [let the oil containers drain well] and start the engine, keeping the speed as low as possible until oil pressure builds. Let the engine idle a few moments and check for leakage at the drain plug and filter. Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the oil pan. Now, remove the dipstick and on the back side, using a very clean file, scratch a line where the true 5 quarts of oil leaves its mark. This will now be your engine's true "1 quart low" mark. BE SURE TO WIPE THE DIPSTICK WELL, SO NO METAL FILINGS GET INTO THE ENGINE! Next, add the 6th quart and repeat the above process, marking the true "full" line on the back of the dipstick. Now you have a calibrated dipstick.

NumberDummy provided the following information: Which 4 speed is it? New Process 435 and Warner T-18 use the same boot, the SR-OD single rail 4 speed overdrive boot is different. EOTZ-7277-E .. Transfer Case Shift Boot / Obsolete 1980/86 F150/350 4WD & Bronco. NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746. No Ford dealer, no other obsolete parts vendor has any, none on ebay.

Gary and all others reading: But therein lies my question. What do you guys think the best course of action is for fixing this? I'm leaning towards a patch panel from another cab, and welding that in place of what is corroded. Any other options? The section of the cab that the rear cab bolts go through is slightly corroded as well where it meets the back wall, so I will need to patch that as well although the main issue with that section is serious pitting and not giant gaping holes like the rear wall. For now I've wire wheeled the entire area and laid some paint to slow down the rust. Is this the part? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-89-FORD-TRUCK-REAR-CAB-PANEL-F100-350/223125760396?epid=20021457856&hash=item33f354e98c:g:cTYAAOSwJRxbSmze

Welcome! I look forward to following your progress.

Did the two tone one follow you home?

Check with Gary. I seem to remember that the holes were filled and drilled during the body work for Dad's Truck, for his NOS extension mirrors.

Note the front mounted receiver hitch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/460-Ford-Hydraulic-Clutch-Bellhousing-With-Spacer-Fork-7-5L/323900522198?hash=item4b69f9bed6:g:1-wAAOSwxWxdaryc

Many hands make the load light!

And, the muffler bearings!

#1. Cheeseburgers with chili? #2. Gary, place a basket on the registration table and allow each of us [forum members] to place $5 or $10 to help cover the costs as this should not fall on you.

Nice and meaty!

Before replacing the TPS [probably needed, as Gary suggested], try to set the idle [warm engine with fully opened choke] to a slow steady speed [~650 RPMs]. Attach a rubber vacuum hose to an unused port [manifold vacuum] and with a vacuum gauge, adjust timing [spout disconnected] for the highest vacuum reading. This should approach 20" of Hg. You can use the same method for adjusting the idle air/fuel mixture. If the idle speed gets too high, lower with the idle speed screw and check everything again until you get a steady idle. Reconnect the spout wire and see if the engine runs better.

Gary, I have done some checking and of course, items like this vary from location to location as well as if someone just happens to need and are actively searching for these particular items, but the following is what one might be able to sell the items for: Used and running 460 with the parts you described: $500+ The transmission as described: $150 - 250 Front end pieces, as described: $350+ Headers: $200 - 250 I hope this helps to get the conversation going.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Mustang-GT-Bronco-F150-F250-SEV-MARCHAL-Foglight-Covers-NEW-ORIGINALS/273987146602?fits=Year%3A1980%7CModel%3ABronco&hash=item3fcae8136a:g:lLYAAOSwjiZdaYFl

Not inexpensive... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1996-F150-Truck-Bronco-Windshield-Moulding-Set-1981-1982-1983/401870682655?hash=item5d915bfa1f:g:fFUAAOSw94JdbtN7

"David gets over 20 mpg when he baby's his 300." [ArdWrknTrk] Yes, that is true. My son has a 1984 F150 with 4.9L engine and it still has functioning "feedback ignition and carburetion". It has a manual OD transmission and was "born" with 2.47 rear gears. It has returned 26+ mpg on the Interstate. I have never heard of 3.16 rear gears. For 9" differential, there was a 2.70, 3.0 and 3.25 [i believe]. The 8.8" differential had 2.47, 3.08 and 3.55 [i believe]. With my 3.08 gears and manual OD, @ 55 mph the engine is turning ~1530 RPMs. One cannot expect brisk acceleration at that point. What is your idle speed and have you checked the vacuum @ that speed? When the truck stalled several times, was the engine still not up to operating temp.? I ask because the choke will open more slowly since the heat choke has been disabled.

Gary, I just sent a copy of the 3 main items for sale to my friend who is a former Ford trained technician, who went into business for himself. He works on Diesels, but has a hobby of pulling sleds and uses 460 drive train. He is the one who has worked on my truck and considers it a toy. I asked that he offer what value these are. Regarding the headers, I would say 1/2 the original price as a starting point. Ask yourself what would you be willing to pay for them?

I'll try to find similar listings, tomorrow.