Gary Lewis

Do you have a cigar? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive-td11511.html

I added a new "section" to the website today - Reference. (Documentation/Reference) And in it so far you'll find: Hose & Fittings: This is the page Angelo asked for with the fitting and hose size chart Standard & Utility Parts Catalog: This tells you the details about all of those things in the Master Parts Catalog's illustrations. Let's take the cooling system illustration below. I see these fasteners and the new catalog tells me: N606676: M6 22.5mm long and 9.8 hardness. And, it is a Type 11 so it looks like 383375: This is a #12 spring nut that has A & B dimensions of 5/8", is Grade 5, and looks like 383152: This is a 1/4 - 14 self-tapping screw that is 5/8" long and looks like

Bill - Thanks, but the file turned out to be about 1/2 the size I expected. Yes, it is still 230 Mb, so it is large. But, having it all in one file makes the search so much easier. Cory - Yes it is. And, it is up: Documentation/Reference/Standard & Utility Parts Catalog. Using the approach explained on the page of opening another browser page it takes about 1 1/2 minute for me to find a part, which is faster than going to the numeric index at the back, finding the page #, and then scrolling back up to that page. But either way works. Please take a look, guys, and tell me what you think. So far I've found every fastener I've looked for, but will continue testing it. Y'all do the same, please.

LOL! Well, live and learn. So, can you mark where the ends of the resistor wire are? Lots of people have asked and you are the only one I know that has found it. So mark it and take a pic?

If it is a lack of an engine plate, the piece that goes between the engine & the block, then I have an extra you can have. But I'm doubting that I didn't put one in there.

Oh no! So sorry! So the new flywheel cracked? I'm pretty sure the crank is not bent. I put 3000 miles on that engine to and from Delaware from Ok. And many more besides. But what do you mean by "spacer ring"? Is that the metal plate that goes between the block and the transmission?

You are on the map!

The 1406 is fine for a 460. I ran Big Blue on one for a while. But getting the throttle connected will require a ball on it if it doesn't have one. And you'll have to get the fuel line connected. I'm with Scott - tow or a trailer would be my preference. Are you a AAA member? They'll tow it.

As my father would say, you are going to keep us in suspenders and not tell us?

I thought so! Do you want me to put you on the map? And is that the new one at Garnett and 96th?

Glad you joined! Southeast MO? Like Poplar Bluff? I ask 'cause we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you with a town or zip code. Yes, pics would be great.

No, I think it is the red/light green wire in my pic. You beat me. Well done! Want to know how I did it by searching?

Matt - I can't find "r/g" as wire colours. Nor "r/dg" for dark green. But I do find several instances of "r/lg". And here's one. But you'll notice it isn't served by a fuse, just a fuse link. So one approach would be to pull all the fuses and see if it still gets hot. But that wire doesn't make sense as I don't think it goes up there. More likely is this one that supplies the sense circuit to the alternator. It would go from the ignition switch up over there, to the right side, and then out to the alternator. But there are others, so if this doesn't work let me know.

Bummer! I've not gotten a used windshield. But I would be hesitant to do so unless you can confirm it is not pitted. Also, make sure you get one from a Bullnose truck. The later trucks had the VIN tag moved and the later windshields obscure the VIN on ours. That's a no-no. In fact, if you get a new windshield make SURE you tell them you won't take one that obscures the VIN. Many shops carry only the later windshields and once they put it in they don't want to take it out. I suspect it is illegal for them to put a windshield in that obscures the VIN, but if you don't push it they may do it. Don't let them as it will cause problems down the road. Don't ask how I know about this.

Yes, I agree. The more I think about this catalog the more excited I get. I started years ago on FTE documenting the fasteners, with pictures and descriptions. In the midst of that IB broke the albums in FTE and it no longer worked. I then started the website and we have the Documentation/Fasteners section. But, it is only the tip of the iceberg and even that isn't complete. I theory this has all of the fasteners other bits and pieces for our trucks. I haven't proven that, but it does have the few I've tried. Perhaps the Fasteners section can be tied to the catalog? Ditto the Documentation/Cooling Systems/Elbows page. And so on. I just have to figure out the best way to present it.

Excellent! Well done! I'll have to keep that one in mind.

That's a great project! Hope the boys are helping you. There is no better way to learn than with your father.

Have a good trip! Enjoy!

Yes, Scott is a really nice guy. We enjoy working together. The 30 minutes extra last night was spent getting the boot on the caliper. In '78 they hadn't yet gone to the boot with a metal ring bonded to it that you press into the caliper. Instead, there's a groove in the bore of the caliper and a lip on the boot that goes into the bore. He didn't have enough hands to put the boot in and then work the piston in. It takes 3+ hands, and 4.75 are preferable. We got it with 4.0 and a pick that we slid around to pull the boot up and over the piston. Ok, so you found the bit about the rod. I needed a rod at the back of the aux battery straight across from the one in front so I could use the same hold down design I used on the main battery. So I drilled a hole in the arm coming off the battery tray to hold the coolant reservoir. But the j-bolts, as said, are smaller diameter than the thread, so you can't put more threads on one and use it. The first thought was a piece of all-thread, but that yells "added on" and I wanted it to look stock. So I took a piece of 5/16" rod, which I happened to have but didn't have 1/4", and turned it down the needed length on each end to .250". Then I threaded it 1/4-28, just like the j-bolts. And I'm pleased with the hold downs. I think they look good and I know they hold the batteries in tightly. I had my sights set on using the more modern battery hold down system, but since my main battery doesn't have the lips on the bottom for that and the aux battery's tray doesn't have room for them, that wasn't going to work. This will. But, it may have locked me into using these batteries in future. Oh well!

I think that is asking for trouble. Being as I'm playing in that area I think you are right - it may well hit the steering box or the header. And if it doesn't you'll still have to have new hoses made.

You are now on the map.

There's no downside to plugging it in. As for getting the factory service manual, it is a good thing to have. However, those schematics are from the EVTM. But in reality much of the FSM is on-line on the site, and all of the 1981, '85, and '86 EVTM's are.

There is something wrong if the belts are squealing. But Dad used to take a round file or rasp, lay it in the pulley, and whack it with a mallet. That leaves little teeth in the pulley and stops the noise - and wears the belt.

The better picture did it. I believe you are looking at C169, and those are the two wires going to the tach. See the right side of the first page below, from the 1985 EVTM, that shows the wire colors, and the second page that shows where the connector is, its color, and the # of pins.

From our page at Documentation/Electrical/Batteries. And something like "80/" means 1980 thru the end of the catalog, which was 1989.