Gary Lewis

Ok folks, would one of you register for the test forum? Bullnose Forum/Test Forum in the menu. Here's what should happen. 1. I get an email telling me you've registered. 2. I promote you to "member" 3. You get an email that says Thank you for registering with Test Forum! Email Confirmation Please click on the confirmation link below to activate your account: 4. After clicking the link you'll be taken to a page that says Registration Confirmed and then tells you to click another link where you'll be taken to the New Members Start Here folder, etc Note that when you click that link you should be taken to the New Members Start Here folder on this forum, not Test. I will want to see the email and the page you were taken to, so please take screen shots and post them. THANK YOU!

How 'bout pics? I'm having a hard time imagining what you've described.

The resistance wire/ballast is in the harness and you won't see it. But it is there.

I'd put the original coil back and see if it gets hot. If not, it is the new coil that is the problem. And if the coil is getting that hot the ignition module is very likely to fail as it is carrying way too much current. So you may have fried it.

Did you not see my reply with several questions?

The condensor isn't the problem. And it is indeed a noise suppressor, so isn't needed. I can think of two reasons the coil would get hot. First, the wrong coil. Where did you get it? What brand is it? And why did you replace the old one? Second, if you've bypassed the ballast resistor. Have you changed any of the wiring to the ignition? Are you still running the original ignition module with a blue grommet?

Good luck!

Good to know that I can tweak the nipple. I was afraid it would leak if I did. As for hydroboost kits saying to use a tee and put the power steering return to the straight-through leg, I'm . I have a kit that came with Big Blue that I've been planning to use on Dad's truck, but never bothered to read the instructions. Will do as it may be something that we want to put on the Hydroboost page. Thanks!

If you've run a tee with no problems on the ones you've done I think I'll do the same. And if there's only a little bit from the hydroboost unit, and only when braking, then giving the power steering the straight shot makes sense. As for the other can, that one has the fittings in an awkward position and angle. I've seen some that put the fittings in better directions, but I've also thought about brazing a fitting in right where I'd like to have it. Anyway, I think I'll be fine with the tee. Thanks.

That's not bad MPG for break-in and idling in drive-thru's. When you can get it out on the road I'll bet it comes up to 15 or more pretty quickly. On the hose clamps, can you slip another clamp on and run two?

The pump is a Saginaw off an 1990 E350 w/a 460. But back to the Y or T. I can see that a T would flow best for the steering gear if set up that way. But it would flow poorly for the hydroboost. However, a Y wouldn't flow badly for either. Maybe slightly less than the T for the steering, but lots better for the brakes. So, why not use the Y? Or do you think the T is best?

So you are saying that the main flow will be from the steering gear and it should go through the straight part of the T and into the pump. And what little flow comes from the hydroboost system will get directed by the power steering fluid? That makes sense with what I'm reading in the FSM, which says "With the Hydro-Boost at rest (engine (6007) on, brakes released) power steering fluid flows from the inlet port, across the number 3 land and through the outlet port to the steering gear." Ok, I'll give it a try. I can do that plumbing tomorrow and then go to the Y if I have to. But, how will I know if I have a problem with the return?

My friend Greg from the UK is helping me to design this. It's half 12 there, so hopefully he's in bed. But in the morning I'm hoping he can help me figure out how to put the link in to the New Members Start Here folder, and cc all of us moderators on the email back to the newbie. If we can do that then I can handle adding the text to the message. I'm sure there will need to be some testing, which will be done on the Test Forum. But that's where y'all come in. The issue is that once an email address is used for a new member you can't re-use that address. So I'm going to be asking for volunteers to sign up to the test forum - when the time comes. (Please don't do it now!) And, when we do it we'll need to do it one at a time. Someone will register, be approved, and get the email. Then post a screenshot of the email so I can see, and I'll make some changes and ask for a new volunteer.

You have a good point. The outside of the dip stick is woven so is flexible. But, it is just a question of how long before it fails since the engine will always be moving on the mounts. So I'm back to looking for a way to have a bracket from the engine. I'll sleep on it and see what I can come up with tomorrow. But keep the ideas coming.

Janey has a brass rubbing from Saint George's tomb in London. And that was done with a gold "crayon".

I don't think a straight strap would work between those two holes as the holes sit inboard a bit and a strap looks like it would hit the valve cover. But, a strap with tabs on the ends, which may be what you meant, would work. Or, a piece of the channel I used to make the battery hold downs could be milled in a wide U to fit between those holes. And it could have part of the lip hanging down to stiffen it. Another approach would be to come up from the header's bolt with a bracket. However, I just went out to look and the dip stick really needs to be something like 4" away from the left edge of the valve cover. That's because the dip stick has to curve out around the headers. So if the handle is take in closer to the valve cover it'll be pointing in at the top and pulling it out will be awkward. It really needs to come straight up from that position roughly 4" outboard of the engine. And I'm thinking that a piece of angle down to the perch might be the best approach. But, keep those ideas coming in, please!

I've never once had an issue with Dad's truck having a later windshield... The '82 Explorer I had needed a windshield, so I had one installed. Unfortunately they used a later model windshield that obscured the VIN. I didn't realize that until I sold the truck to a friend of my brother's, and he lives in Kansas and I'm in OK. The DOT there couldn't see the VIN, but being a small town allowed my brother to remove the dash pad and show him the VIN using a mirror. I doubt very many people would allow that, so I highly recommend that people don't let the wrong windshield to be installed.

Good! Welcome.

Thanks, Jim. But I ordered the $12 stainless one. My reasoning was that a brass Y looks like something you'd get from the hardware store when you pick up more all-thread. On another topic, the parts from Denny's Driveshafts came in today so I can now go through the front driveshaft. And, I got several things done today. First, I got the lower steering shaft in, albeit the old one from Dad's truck which has a ripped boot. But I needed it in place to so I'd know where to bend the brake lines and power steering hoses so they'd miss it. I did get the brake lines from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve bent to clear the steering shaft. After that I got the hoses for the power steering and hydroboost systems installed. So now I'm in a position to fill the brake system and bleed it. And, I can also fill the power steering system, but since I'm not going to put the belt on the pump when I break the engine in, it'll be a while before I can use that system. Here's a shot from the front showing the hose routing: And here's a shot from the top. Note that the dip stick is in there. More about that in a minute. And now to the dip stick. It is installed, but it is too long for the tab on it to connect to a header bolt. So I'm thinking about making a tab to go under the valve cover bolt you can see near the dip stick. Thoughts? Other suggestions?

I agree, Shaun. The factory shop manual doesn't show one, nor does the master parts catalog. And there wasn't one on Dad's truck when I pulled it apart.

I'm relieved that the locating pins and plate are there, although I'd have been willing to bet they were. But I don't think that document is a Ford doc. It says "Ford", but I think it is just a page from some mechanic's book called Altra. And it doesn't look like any Ford doc I've seen - and I have 100's of them. Speaking of those, I have all of the technical service bulletins from 1980 well into the 90's. But few of them are on the site - yet. You might look through the spreadsheet that I put together from a Ford doc that supposedly showed all of the TSB's. However, since then I've learned that there are a lot more TSB's than are on the spreadsheet. Anyway, you might look and see if you spot one that might be of interest and I can scan it in. Documentation/TSB's/TSB Index.

Jim - It is more that they didn't follow the directions than they didn't post in the New Members section. That may seem like a very small thing, but my thinking has been that if they aren't going to follow directions coming in then they aren't likely to follow the guidelines later. In addition, having not gone to the New Members section they may well not even have seen the guidelines. In fact, one guy told us he'd never seen them - as we banned him. As for each of us cc'ing the others, I don't think there's a way to do that. We'll all get the initial email when they register, and the first one that works it will see the Member box unchecked. And since it is usually the two of us doing it, I guess we'll just have to look and see if the box is ticked. Unless I can figure out how to have us cc'd on that email that goes to the new user when we make him a member. Then we'd all know. Thoughts?

Larry - Bill/85lebaront2 ran a carb and ignition shop for decades. He knows his way around carbs, for sure.

Yes, that IS cool!

Ok. Got it. I think this was the process:You requested membershipYou got an email saying "Dear User, Thank you for registering with Bullnose Enthusiasts. Please click on the confirmation link below to activate your account." And as soon as you did that you were able to post. (This was triggered by Jim approving your membership.)You then got an email from Jim saying "Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Please read guidelines, below my signature...." And that was something that Jim sent you after he approved your membership. If that's correct, then I see why Paul and others have been confused. They get approved and can post, and later they get an email that they may or may not see with additional instructions. Obviously we need to move the instructions into the automated message than comes when we approve the membership and discontinue the extra email we've been sending.