Gary Lewis

As long as I don't have to eat another weisswurst. That was the worst! Had it in the Hofbräuhaus and I tasted it the rest of the day! Perhaps we could have a truck show here? (I took that pic about 5 years ago.)

I'd love it! Give me another reason to visit your beautiful country - to meet you guys!

Have you read the instructions at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's? Just clicking Big Size should solve the problem.

Excellent! Those things should make it a good, safe trip. On your list of things to do might be a new set of tires. Those have quite the howl to them from roughly 45 MPH up. No hurry, but you might want to hear the sweet sound from the Magnaflow muffler.

I can't find a clamp big enough. It needs to be at least 6 3/4" long, and most of what I find is a max of 5". I've looked through the list of #'s Bruce provided and they are all too short. I've perused Amazon and haven't found them. Can't find them on the Dorman site, although that site is frustrating to use. And I can't find it on Rock Auto. So, the plan at this point is to put a zip tie on it and take it somewhere that has the clamps. Obviously a driveline shop would, and potentially 4WD Parts. But if anyone knows of a source for longer clamps, please let me know.

Forgetting what you put in it, meaning the vinegar, the fact that the oil is a bit high and the coolant is gone strongly suggests head gasket problems. The parts stores sell a kit to test the coolant for products of combustion, which get in there via a bad head gasket. If that shows products of combustion in the coolant then you have head gasket problems. If not, pull the intake manifold/lower plenum and check the mating surface where it hits the heads. The manifold is aluminum and the heads being cast iron creates a galvanic action at that point when wet and hot. So the aluminum gets plated off right there, causing a loss of seal on the gasket. If it is leaking at the bottom it will go into the valley and into the oil. If that's the case it may not be the head gaskets. You could run a leak-down test on the engine to check that out and may not have to pull the heads, although at that point you are pretty close. Anyway, the leak-down test will usually show up a leak into the cooling system.

I think you are right, Jim. I'll admit I was tired and not thinking straight last night when I posted that. Let's see what he says.

Philipp - Welcome! Sure glad you joined! I've been to Regensburg. We took a Viking cruise down the Danube a few years ago and due to the low water situation we started there rather than Nuremberg if I remember correctly. And I remember the cathedral. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you. But do you want it to be the little village? Which is it? Nice truck! It looks really sharp. As others have said, those colors pop. And it will be nice to work on it with your son. Congratulations!

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! On the oil question, I'd leave it for at least 500 miles. You want to change after the main wear-in has happened on the engine so you can get the cast off metal bits out. But it won't hurt to go a little longer. As for the wife dropping the engine on your head, is she trying to tell you something? The noise in the CB is probably because you don't have the hood on and the antenna is "seeing" to ignition system. On the belts, best tighten up the loose one, but let the other one wear in a bit before tightening it up any more. But the water/coolant leak is worrying. Doubt it'll get any better so you need to find it and fix it.

I forgot your question and comments. First, you'd be surprised at what we have interest in. Try us. Second, yes there's always something. A truck is never done. I call it peeling the onion. You cry and peel. But pretty soon you have a whole bunch of onion rings. As for the oil drops, do you have the original intake manifold on the truck? I ask because people frequently do a poor job of sealing the front and rear of the intake manifold to the engine, and they'll for sure leak there if so. And that oil will work its way down the back of the engine and then drop out after a drive. Don't ask how I know. Another possibility is the oil pressure sending unit that is also at the back of the engine. It screws in there, and if you have an electric fuel pump you'll also have an oil pressure switch there. Sometimes the fittings leak. Some times the sender leaks. Or, it could be the rear main seal. But that's a huge pain to fix as the engine has to come out. So, I'd clean off the back of the engine behind the intake manifold and see if it looks like it is leaking there. Use carb or brake cleaner on a rag to get it really clean and go for a drive. Afterward is there oil there? Can you tell if it was from under the intake or the oil pressure sender/switch?

Does it need to be exactly that one? I think your carb has a 1/4" blade and you need the female connector, Right? Panduit makes this one, which is available at DigiKey. But there are plenty of others.

I think the two connector sections just need to be merged, with your most recent catalog addition being primary, and the external links being just that, external links with no image. As for the rest of the electrical section, I haven't looked at it enough to notice the issues so I have no suggestions. I forgot about that, Shaun. Need to fix that. Anyway, I added a page today. Was looking for something in the Illustrations section of the MPC and ran across the wiring routing. Had been looking for it, so added this page: Documentation/Electrical/Wiring Routing. Has info on the: Camper, aux battery, and trailer tow relay wiring Main wiring harness, including a nice shot of the back of the instrument cluster, under hood, fuse block, down the frame, etc Battery & starter, which answers the question we discussed recently about how those wires are to be run Power door lock wiring

It does. But the closest info we have is for its big brother, the 400.

Man, that is NICE! Love the welds!

Steve - I'm sorry. I didn't realize you weren't on there. But you are now, assuming that I got the right place. Please go look. As for willing to help, we dispensed with color coding long ago and everybody gets the same green. See what you think.

Bill - The spec's on the 2150 for a 400 are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1982-engine-emissions-diagnosis.html. But that's a 179 page document, so you'll want to open it in another browser tab and then search for what you are looking for. Or download it and use your own pdf app.

Sven - It is always the case that the locals don't go. Years ago we had a Brit move into our little town in Oklahoma and he asked what there was to see. So we explained what was available, but none of us had been. Later we moved to London and I asked about seeing castles in the UK. A guy brought a book about them, but no one had been to see any of them.

Yes, that is a good approach - bolts with a shank that keeps the force off the threads.

Yes, I'm pretty sure you can get the ends out by pulling them forward. And if you are doing that it would be time for the sway bars.

Gary, I just remembered that I was also driving around for a while with the vacuum advance disconnected, but I don't remember exactly when or for how long. In any case, I'm hoping to get some good running on it to re-check the highway MPG. 16 around town is decent though, I'm happy with that. The vacuum advance makes a huge difference on MPG.

I'll check with the local mechanic I know to see if he has the tool.

Yes, I do. Thanks for checking. Seriously though, I put the part numbers for the fuse box and the covers here: Documentation/Electrical/Circuit Protection and on the Fuse Box Part Numbers tab.

I imagine the blanks are waisted so the die has an easy lead in, or out. It's pretty easy to get exactly what you want when you have the might that Ford did, and you want a zillion of them. Yep, and it probably saved them some money as well as weight. Every little bit adds up. Got notification that the dip stick has shipped from Lokar, so they did have at least one in stock. And the driveshaft parts have shipped from Denny's Driveshafts. The only thing I'm missing is the boot strap. The one I ordered from Summit is going to be too short. However, from what I'm reading most of the straps, if not all, require a tool to install them. Denny said most people just use a heavy zip tie. Anyone see a problem with that?

You can see from the map that you aren’t the only member in Germany. Yes, the Christmas market is open year-round in Rothenburg. But for us the highlight was the night watchman’s tour. That was really cool. As for the truck, that’s a neat story on how you got it. Would be good to write up in a thread about the truck in the main section.

That's excellent mileage for those conditions, Cory. Well done! I'd bet 18 is easily within reach when you put it on the highway and get to settle into 5th.