Gary Lewis

Uh, yeah. That would be me. I took a week off work to pull the straight six out of there and install the 351w. I had to get the project finished in a week. I assumed that since the truck came with both 6's and 8's, that it would be fairly straightforward. I was wrong, obviously. I was not having a lot of luck searching the internet for pictures of the V8 mounting arrangement, but I assumed the engine perches (as I now know they are called - kind of hard to search for something that you don't know the name of) were basically the same between the I6 and V8. When I dropped the V8 engine down, I found there to be a spacing problem with the I6 perches, there was a large gap on either side if about an inch and a half. So, I knew the perches were different from the 6 to the 8, but didn't know how. I assumed the V8 perches were like the I6 perches, just taller. So I modified them to be taller... the overall effect being that the engine sits a bit higher and a bit more forward than it should. I got a driveshaft of the right length and called it good. I was determined to finish the engine install in a week, and I did. Later of course, I found out that the V8 engine perches actually sit behind the K-member. I think I also learned that they are riveted to the frame, making them a PITA to remove/replace. And here's where my truck chassis gets weird(er). The VIN decodes as an 81 with a 351W, and that's what I wanted in there. But there are a couple things wrong with the chassis for that. First, there was no sign that V8 engine perches were ever in there. Second, the frame is supposed to be an 81, but there are no swiss cheese holes. So I think I've got an 81 body on a later I6 frame. I haven't tried to find the frame VIN, but I know where to look, thanks to you. So I got a strange truck, and probably made it stranger. Maybe one day I will hunt down the correct engine perches and put things more stock, but for right now I'm not really worried about it. I don't think I have changed the engine angle enough to worry about driveshaft phasing weirdness, but time will tell. Don't hate me because I don't know these trucks yet! Also, you may have guessed by now that I am not a "keep it stock" purist. I see enough talk of engine swaps, etc. on this forum that I don't guess everyone is. I respect those who want to restore a truck to stock, but that's not me at all. I love fabbing stuff up or modifying other stuff to work with a vehicle. You got it done, and that's what counts. And if you go to stock Windsor perches it'l cause the engine to be farther to the rear and your driveshaft will be too long. I'd stick with what you have. As for not hating you 'cause you don't know these trucks, I sure didn't about 10 years ago, and still don't know that much. But with the help of the guys on here and others I'm learning. And stock isn't the goal. How you want it is the goal. Neither of my trucks are close to stock.

Yep, I think to get the 460 ones on won't be too difficult. On another topic, the router bits came in today. I'm thinking an 1/8" round-over will be about right. Maybe I can give that a try later today if the Saturn cooperates.

What can I say but that I’m well watched. 😎 Glad you got it.

I have the sway bar and the brackets, but pulling the links to the sway bar on the old TTB helped the ride significantly, so I'm going to start without it. If I remember correctly, there was going to be some fabrication needed to make longer links. So I decided to do without and see how it goes. And the new springs will surely settle some. It is going to be just what you wanted.

Looking good! Nice fabrication. So, yours is Abby Normal? Did someone use the wrong perches, like from a 300 six?

If I'm not mistaken, this is Saturday. And I would expect the office staff to be home today.

Thanks, Bruce. I wasn't aware of those heat shields. But I have the 460 ones and with one side on I might as well put the other side on. Hopefully it'll be as simple as the driver's side was, meaning one tab needed no trimming and the other wasn't all that difficult. Anyway, thanks again.

Matt - That IS disappointing! I would contact SEM directly. The gentleman I spoke with, Dave Anderson, was very helpful. I've forwarded the email conversation we had to you so you'll have his contact info. Please keep us apprised as to what you find out.

ISWYDT Your next tutorial needs to be: Converting your alternator to 520 chain drive for MOAR Amps! That was just serendipity. A slip of the fingers. But yes, it would take a serious drive system to power an alternator while it put out 220 amps. Probably a gilmer belt?

I have no more experience than Jim. In fact, I don't know that I've ever worked on an AOD. But, we don't know for sure that's what you have, although I'd bet Jim's guess is correct. As he said, the TV rod adjustment is critical for those transmissions. There's a discussion on how to adjust them in the factory service manual section here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/automatic-overdrive-aod.html. You might see if it is set correctly. But the burning rubber smell is worrying. Any chance something has fallen onto the exhaust system?

Looking good!!!! Don't remember if you have used springs or not like I do. but I expect a suspension with used springs to settle a bit after driving as the bushings flex and things align.

Nice truck!

Vic - Jim has laid it all out, but most of that is also on our page here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. As for going with more than 160 amps, in theory I did that for Dad's by replacing the diodes with one capable of 160 amps. And I replaced the standard regulator with one that brings the current on slowly (LRC) as it will be run by twin v-belts. But that alternator hasn't been run yet, so I can't say it works. However, if I had to find an 3G alternator today, I'd do as Jim did and by one from DB Electrical. The page above says "For instance, DB Electrical currently (2/8/2019) sells the F4PZ 10346-B from the list above for from $78 for a 130 amp unit up to $278 for a 220 amp unit - with a 1-year warranty." How badly do you need the extra current?

Well done, Chad! I have one of those laying on the bench to be installed on Big Blue. Keep thinking "I could do that today" and then think "but the hood stays open 100% of the time and it would run the battery down." So, I'm holding off. But I don't know what the guts are like on it, so it is good to know you guys had successfully repaired them.

I don't think anything is wrong with the ammeter as it sets in the center when there's no current, and swings to the left when current is flowing out of the battery and to the right when it is flowing in. As far as the three amigos, fuel/oil/coolant, I don't know. That's strange. Let's see what you find out today, Clay. On the tach, I've seen several of them stop and start at odd times. Not sure that one did, but if it is then it may need cleaned as they are pretty sensitive to the stuff left over on the printed circuit from soldering. Or, as Jim said, maybe the wire has a break.

As Jim pointed out, the oil pressure, fuel level, and water temp gauges are actually thermometers. There's a heating element in them and the current from the sender heats that up and the gauges slowly climb. So you could pull the key out and the gauges will slowly fall. Takes maybe 2 minutes to completely cool off. But the tach never did sit at 0 when the key was off. However, it was fairly accurate when the engine was running. I don't know why.

Start with "its a Holley" and go downhill from there. Seriously though, I'm not sure you could run that much gas through an Edelbrock. If the choke was on it would be rolling black smoke. Having said that, I do remember getting a bad tank of gas in my '69 Bee. It gummed the needles up so badly that you could almost see the gas gauge moving when on the highway. And that could have happened to an Edelbrock.

Yes, you are correct. It isn't a bullnose. But, it seemed cool to say it that way. As for the Nissan, turns out his mother was wrong - it is a Saturn Vue. He sent me a link to a Youtube where I guy replaced the alternator. Things were going well, with a cutaway now and then to do something more. Finally there was a cutaway and he came back to say "We finally had to pull this bolt and raise the engine using a jack." So I'm planning on having to do that.

The trailer brake controller?

First, the guy on that ebay advert is smoking some pretty good stuff. Ain't no way he's going to get that much for that seat. In comparison, I paid $125 for a very nice front bench seat a few years ago - the one in Rusty IIRC. As for what will sell, here are my thoughts: The radiator support: The diesel core supports are getting hard to find. Ask Jonathan. The door panels: Even though the driver's side panel has a hole drilled in it, I think it would sell, as would the passenger's side Switch bezels: The window and lock switches and bezels are sought after. Don't break them. You didn't show the dash, but what shape are the instrument and radio bezels in? Radio: That's a high-end truck so it might have had a nice radio/tape player in it. Some people are looking for those. Seatbelts Plastic trim: I don't think the corner trim, kick panels, and pillar trim is being made yet, so is becoming sought after. That'll give you a start. But you'll have to pay up front and then sit on the stuff for a while until someone is looking for it.

People frequently leave the engine/firewall ground off. But, the Bullnose trucks had a poor ground plan, with the early ones having rear light grounds on the frame. In '84 IIRC they put the rear lights ground in the cab, but you are still dependent upon the engine/cab ground. In the years after the Bullnose era they beefed the grounds up significantly with grounds from the core support to the fenders and from the frame to the cab. Have you seen what I did on Big Blue? You can check it out here, but the diagram I made looks like this:

And, as I was scrolling back through to find that I also found that you asked me a question about dual snorkel air cleaners. Do you still want to discuss that? I think it would work. Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid. On the air cleaner lids, post the size of yours and I'll check my 351 HO lid tomorrow. And a 2bbl lid if I have one.

You also found out on here about the VV air cleaner: And, as I was scrolling back through to find that I also found that you asked me a question about dual snorkel air cleaners. Do you still want to discuss that? I think it would work. Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

Two weeks later and I filled the old Bull up again last night and again hit just a hair below 16mpg. I guess that is where my "run around" mileage is. Its not highway mileage, but it's not stop and go crawling traffic either. I guess I'd call it mixed, so that's not bad. Now to get some highway driving in so I can get an idea where that will be. That's good MPG for "running around". I'll bet the highway #'s will be around 17.5.