Gary Lewis

Are you new? This is the internet, we can't have informed expertise around here! Oh...wait, this is Gary's garage. Ignore me, I got carried away. Anyway, thanks for the intel. So a question to you: I was looking at the specs for the Destination tire, and noticed the rim width range for the size in question is listed as 6"-8". My rims are 5.5" - is that perhaps part of my problem, I have too-wide tires on a too-narrow rim? Should I consider stepping back to the factory spec 215/75R15 tires? Matthew - You do remember Steve from the get-together. Right?

That guy learned the hard way that "restoring" a truck that's not running is expensive. But, I'm guessing he didn't know what he was doing. Instead of starting with a motor home he would have been well ahead to start with a truck w/a 460 in it. That way he would have had the bits and pieces he needed, like perches. And for that matter the seat belt. And radiator, and, and, and. Then there's the 3.5 MPG. There's something seriously wrong with the engine or fuel system to get that. Big Blue got 11.0 - 11.5 MPG on the highway at 65 MPH running the A/C. And his engine was seriously worn out.

Chris McGaugh just provided a link to this article on Facebook. I read it and thought y'all might like to see it. The 1980-’86 Bronco was an even greater departure from the original

I don't know, David. If the tire has less bulge maybe it will have less resistance to rolling. I've read that the bulge, aka deflection, causes tires to be running "uphill" the whole time.

David - What a good description. Jim - Never thought about holding my thumb behind the slide on my Woodsman. Cool! But in my lever action rifle they are super quiet.

Doubt many know what CB cap is, Jim. Takes me way back. May still have a few. Are they still sold?

Well, congrats but yipes! Congrats on getting the project done as well as getting the load-distributing hitch set up. But yipes on the process. That doesn't sound like fun. I sure hope you like towing with it connected. As for the hole in the drain, good work figuring it out. That one would have taken me a long while to understand. Good luck on the trip! Let us know how it goes.

That is cool, Jim! They'd LOVE to do some welding. I have plenty of scrap pieces, and while I only have one automagic helmet one of them can use the good one and I'll use the other. And, congrat's on being a great grandfather!

When my boys were learning how to drive I didn't hack on them as much as Lesley wanted me to. I told her "my job is to let them learn from their mistakes, and try to keep them from making mistakes that will have consequences that are too high." That meant that it was probably more effective to point out the stop sign as they blew past rather than early enough for them to stop at it. But only if I could see that they weren't going to smoke someone in the process. That's a tough enough process with your own kids. I can see it's going to be harder yet with someone else's kids (ie, my kid's kids). (And we are one small step closer to grandkids. I might have mentioned this, but my younger son got engaged a couple weeks ago) Good points, Bob. And, as you are likely to find out, there are different parenting styles from generation to generation. Mine was to tell them something and if they didn't do it start counting. If I got to 3 they were in trouble. Our daughter's style is to tell them something and then let it go. I don't think that style will work very well in a hazardous environment, like driving or power tools. But I'm trying to learn to tell them fewer things, concentrating on the important ones. And they are learning that if Pop Pop tells them something he means it and there will be consequences if they don't do it. They are wonderful kids and I love them to death, but I want them to be safe. So I've chosen to wait a while to introduce them to doing serious things in the shop. They've watched me do things on the lathe and mill, and have even operated the media blaster. But I've not let them do very much heretofore. I hope that can now change.

Starliner - You are saying that the old switch does as the new switch does and has two separate positions in On? Just wanting to make sure I understand. Jim - If you look at the schematic you can see there are multiple wipers. And from my experience it isn't uncommon to find that they make and break at different positions in the rotation. For instance, it is not unusual at all to have the grease set up in the winter so that letting the spring pull the switch back to On just gets the ignition circuit and not the one that powers the radio and other accessories. And to get the accessories on you have to manually rotate the switch farther. So in this case the switch is coming out of Start on the left wiper so the starter motor is turned off, but not out of Start on the right wiper so the ballast resistor is still being bypassed. That's very good to know. And, the alignment process doesn't fix that. Just the ingenious testing with the DVM. Well done, Starliner!

That's a pretty good thought... I don't know what the alternator on there is rated at. I assumed around 60 or 70 amps, but if it's 40, yeah time for an upgrade. As shown on our page on alternators (Documentation/Electrical/Alternators) the 40 amp 1G was standard through 1985 and the 60 amp was optional. And the 70 amp was not used. So you might have a 40 or a 60. But, those only put out that current at full tilt, which is 5100 RPM for the 40 amp and 7000 for the 60 amp. That's alternator RPM, but most of the pulley ratios are 2.68:1 so that's 1900 and 2600 engine RPM respectively. But the 3G puts out that much current at idle.

This is on our page at Driveline/Clutches & Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage and then Part Numbers tab. But Shaun, which search function are you using? There are several and some work better than others.

I'm late to the party and answered the question in the other thread. But, for continuity:

I sit corrected. Good to know. Thanks, guys.

Yes, welcome aboard! Glad you joined. Jim is right, I always ask about the map as I want approval before adding someone to it. How 'bout a signature? You can find instructions on how to do that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. A signature helps us help you w/o guessing about details of your truck.

Agree. No reason to hurry to synthetic. Make sure everything is run in and mated. On the cork gasket, you may need some kind of sealer. BUT, RTV makes a gasket slip and slide badly. So if you are going to use RTV then you should only snug the bolts up lightly, let the RTV set up over night, and then torque it. But another type of sealer might be better. There are lots of them, like The Right Stuff. Or even Indian Head. TRS replaces the gasket. Indian Head glues the gasket to the surfaces. Maybe others have suggestions?

I'm with you on everything but the locating pins. I got lost there. Are they for keeping the air cleaner from being installed at the wrong angle?

Here's the table from the MPC, and I see two left-hand threads: 9/l6"-18 x 2 3/4" E3TZ 1108-A L.H 9/l6"-18 x 2 13/16" DOTZ 1119—A L.H.

I just did a search of the site and found a couple of hits on this topic: Interchange: By adding 3 wires, a later electronic chime (large black 7-pin) or buzzer (smaller black 7-pin) can replace an older buzzer (green 4-pin). By adding 2, the later white buzzer (smaller white 6-pin) will work. Each additional wire adds functionality. Year-To-Year-Differences: Dane wrote "In the electrical, the brochure says lights on/door buzzer changed to a chime on XLT, XLT Lariat in 1986, in the 1986 brochure. Mine has a build date of 02/86, it's a XLT Lariat and it has a buzzer. Could be somebody changed it to a buzzer, but that seems kind of unlikely." So I don't think a chime is a direct plug in, although I don't know that for sure. Maybe someone else does. But your buzzer should have two functions in it, key on and seat belt, as described below. If so, I don't think there's a 2nd buzzer available as you have both in one.

The lift has a safety to lower it they probably won't figure out, and going up usually doesn't hurt anyone. So as long as they don't have their hand on the chuck when they turn the lathe on, or don't have a good grip on the end mill when they start that, maybe it'll be ok. They've already learned how to run the mower while sitting in my lap, so they are progressing. So it is time to go into the shop and learn some things there. I've been looking forward to this, and hope the time is right.

Well, if they do you won't have problems with mice.

Somehow I missed that. And I hope now to be able to get them out there with me. I'll have to be careful how I say this, but our granddaughter has never met a button she didn't push. And she didn't take kindly to being told no. She once did exactly what she was told not to do, and when asked why said "Because you told me not to." Case-in-point: Her other grandfather called a few months ago and couldn't get the Subie started. It'd been setting for a few months at their house and he was sure the battery couldn't be dead. I suggested that he open the right rear door and check the dome light. He asked why there, and I said "That's where your granddaughter sits and she plays with the dome light switch like it is a toy - in spite of being told not to." He called back to say the switch was on and the battery was dead. Her brother is less obvious about it, but we had a serious discussion a year ago when using the winch on Big Blue to pull the mower out of the "swamp". I handed him the remote and told him not to push the button, but he did anyway. I told him that I was going to give him one more chance - if he didn't do E.X.A.C.T.L.Y what I told him then we were done. He'd go in the house and not touch the truck or the mower again. He listened and obeyed. So I've been waiting until they mature a bit. I'm hoping that now is the time since they are almost nine. I'll have to have a serious discussion with them when they go in the shop. It is my way or the highway, and there are no second chances. There are buttons, knobs, and levers in there that can hurt someone badly. I really would like to teach them how to make things, how to fix things, and how to use tools - safely. And maybe now is the time.

Haven't tried to do anything with the dizzy other than turn the engine over manually a couple of turns. I'll try the grease approach. Thanks. On the sealer, I want to use something that easy to get out as I have the injectors to go in there eventually. So the Loctite PST seems like a good approach rather than something that sets up and would have to be chipped out.

Not a bad price, although "Needs some work but will run" isn't awe inspiring. And he doesn't even tell us what engine or transmission? I can tell it has the C6 and the Holley 4180C, but is it a 351W or a 460? And, what is the heater hose valve off the rear of the passenger's side valve cover?

The blue ones are just right for Big Blue, but the brown ones I have in there are working. Maybe I'll get them painted when I paint the dash cover, kick panels, et al.