Gary Lewis

Here's the poll for the June TOTM: Ray's blue Flareside: Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: David/1986F150Six's sunburst pic: Brian/Dee's Bullnose and his daily driver: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: And Myrl/myrl883's Parts Truck:

Yes, that's a good looking truck! And, you've reminded me that I'm late to get the poll up. Thanks!

Yes, calipers are cheap to rebuild. And our calipers are easy to rebuild. (But the 1978 calipers take 3.5 hands to get the boots on. Ask WelderScott as he came back two weeks ago yesterday 'cause he couldn't get them on. And it took the two of us quite a while to do it.) There's really not much to the calipers. There's the piston, which may need replaced because some of them are phenolic with a metal crown and the metal is usually bad. Then there's a square-cut o-ring and a boot. The o-ring just sits in a groove and the boot has a metal ring on it that presses down into a recess. So most of the work is in cleaning it. Pull it apart and use brake cleaner and a brass wire brush to get all of the deposits off. Lube things with brake fluid and put them back together.

Wow! NICE! But that is REALLY expensive!

Yes, it has to be something in the mechanical linkage that isn't causing the module to come back to Run. I don't think there's a spring in the switch. It just slides. So all of the positioning is from the key tumbler and linkage. As said, we see a lot of this in the winter when the grease sets up and doesn't let the linkage and switch come all of the way back to Run. What usually is witnessed is that the accessories don't come on, like the turn signals, clock, and radio. But the engine still runs. I'd pull the tumbler and flush it out with cleaner and then lube it. And go through the linkage doing the same. Look for where it might be rubbing on something.

Probably. But those things have to be limp! Here's part of the cross reference chart to take ID # to part number. You can see that E4TA 18080-GA crosses to E4TZ 18125-E, which was later replaced by E7XZ 18125-D. (Yes, I know yours say -G4A, but that # doesn't exist in the list. And, it wasn't unusual for Ford to put a # in there to designate a minor change.)

Yup, know the feeling well. I think I'll wind up making longer links, but it wasn't intuitively obvious to the casual observer exactly where the upper brackets ought to go until the weight was on the suspension, and by then I'd lost interest in getting them on. So that's a step after I get the truck on the road.

Matt - See what you think now. I'm not terribly happy with the alignment of the pictures and the text, and expect you to want some changes. Just let me know and I'll sort it tomorrow. Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers

Matt - It's just gone 3 AM! What are you doing up? I'll see what I can do about that tab......

Crimping is how I do it, and I also use adhesive-lined heat shrink. Works great. On the Bronco tailgate, two things: 1. We have a thread on it here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/How-to-open-a-tailgate-on-a-Bronco-that-the-electrical-system-is-not-working-td51705.html 2. We have the factory shop manual section here: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window

Yes, it is looking great!

Yep, which is why the ubiquitous Chrysler ballast resistor is ceramic.

Matthew - Well done! Would you like that to be put on a page to immortalise it? I'm thinking it would be on a new tab, maybe called Park Repair, or Repairing Park Position, or somesuch on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers. What do you think?

I forgot about that "acquisition"!

That would certainly explain the burning rubber smell. And the shifting would be poor as well.

What an awful story, Bill! Post it on Facebook where FedUp might see it?

I'll stay away from Enginetech. On the brakes, the front calipers don't slide very well so they don't center perfectly. Therefore there's usually more wear on one side than the other. Anyway, you are homing in on a Blooming Onion!

Rob - That's quite the update! A LOT OF WORK! Now you see one of many reasons why I don't want the C-II pump. Just turn the wheel and it'll puke its guts out, all over the engine, floor, etc. Add noise and lower assist and it has three strikes. I like the headliner. I hope you'll show more pics of how it looks and tell us how it sounds. But I'll bet that the sound deadener and foam makes a big difference. What brand is your pressure regulator? Looks a lot like the Holley I've run.

The starter was a PMGR - right? Glad it worked out for you. How do you make battery cables? Crimp? Solder? What size?

Well done, Matthew! That sure cleaned up nicely. :nabble_anim_claps:What wax are you going to use on the hub cab?

That's easy to explain. When idling your alternator is basically not charging the battery so your voltage will probably be about 12.6. But when you rev the engine the alternator does charge and the voltage probably goes up to about 14.4. Doing the math, 10.5 divided by 12.6 gives .8333. And 14.4 times .8333 = 12.0.

Bummer! What brand was your gasket kit?

I got a little bit lost on the AC relays. Let me state it how I think you meant it: You need a ground to tell the Sniper when the AC is on The Sniper provides a ground when it wants to kill the AC If that's the case then I think you are stuck using two relays - one to give the ground to the Sniper when the AC is on, and one to open the circuit to the AC when the Sniper wants to turn it off.

The Vue wasn't worth the climbe. We worked 4 hours, but only 2 of those were on the alternator. You literally have to pull the two front engine mount bolts and jack the engine up 2" to get it out. And during that time he told me he wanted to replace a bolt in the exhaust system that had broken off. He had the nut and part of the "bolt". So I got the right nut and bolt and we jacked it up and put a jack stand under one side and he slid under. Long story short it was a stud, made of the hardest material known to man, and welded to the exhaust pipe. We cut the head off and still couldn't drive it out. In the end we drilled it, and only broke two bits and dulled at least half a dozen others. You can do the math: Gary & Dennis worked for 4 hours, and changing the alternator took 2 hours. How many hours did they drill and cut on one stud? Anyway, yes I was going to order a 3/8" round-over originally. But I now have a 1/8", 3/16, 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" so I have options. (Note that the Amazon advert says the set includes 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", but mine has the 3/16" instead of the 7/16".) And all with 1/2" shank. Thanks to you. And, along the way I put fasteners 1/4" from the edge. So, I think I'm constrained to use either the 1/8 or 3/16", and probably the 1/8".

Uh, yeah. That would be me. I took a week off work to pull the straight six out of there and install the 351w. I had to get the project finished in a week. I assumed that since the truck came with both 6's and 8's, that it would be fairly straightforward. I was wrong, obviously. I was not having a lot of luck searching the internet for pictures of the V8 mounting arrangement, but I assumed the engine perches (as I now know they are called - kind of hard to search for something that you don't know the name of) were basically the same between the I6 and V8. When I dropped the V8 engine down, I found there to be a spacing problem with the I6 perches, there was a large gap on either side if about an inch and a half. So, I knew the perches were different from the 6 to the 8, but didn't know how. I assumed the V8 perches were like the I6 perches, just taller. So I modified them to be taller... the overall effect being that the engine sits a bit higher and a bit more forward than it should. I got a driveshaft of the right length and called it good. I was determined to finish the engine install in a week, and I did. Later of course, I found out that the V8 engine perches actually sit behind the K-member. I think I also learned that they are riveted to the frame, making them a PITA to remove/replace. And here's where my truck chassis gets weird(er). The VIN decodes as an 81 with a 351W, and that's what I wanted in there. But there are a couple things wrong with the chassis for that. First, there was no sign that V8 engine perches were ever in there. Second, the frame is supposed to be an 81, but there are no swiss cheese holes. So I think I've got an 81 body on a later I6 frame. I haven't tried to find the frame VIN, but I know where to look, thanks to you. So I got a strange truck, and probably made it stranger. Maybe one day I will hunt down the correct engine perches and put things more stock, but for right now I'm not really worried about it. I don't think I have changed the engine angle enough to worry about driveshaft phasing weirdness, but time will tell. Don't hate me because I don't know these trucks yet! Also, you may have guessed by now that I am not a "keep it stock" purist. I see enough talk of engine swaps, etc. on this forum that I don't guess everyone is. I respect those who want to restore a truck to stock, but that's not me at all. I love fabbing stuff up or modifying other stuff to work with a vehicle. You got it done, and that's what counts. And if you go to stock Windsor perches it'l cause the engine to be farther to the rear and your driveshaft will be too long. I'd stick with what you have. As for not hating you 'cause you don't know these trucks, I sure didn't about 10 years ago, and still don't know that much. But with the help of the guys on here and others I'm learning. And stock isn't the goal. How you want it is the goal. Neither of my trucks are close to stock.