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Everything posted by Gary Lewis
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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
Gary Lewis replied to ratdude747's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
I don't understand that logic. If you go to the parts store and buy a caliper many/most are rebuilt. Do you trust someone that's doing it as quickly as possible to do a better job than you can do? As for something else being rotted, there is nothing else. The caliper assembly consists of: In the two sets of calipers I've rebuild there was zero wear in the bore. (And even if there was a rebuilder may well use the body anyway.) So if you replace the piston, the o-ring, and the boot the only thing left is the bleed valve. And in the calipers for Big Blue I replaced them. So I have calipers that are every bit as good as the ones I could have purchased, and probably better as I used top shelf parts and know they were put together correctly. Now, I'm not saying you need to rebuild yours. I'm just saying that there is nothing else to rot. -
Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
Gary Lewis replied to ratdude747's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Yes, calipers are cheap to rebuild. And our calipers are easy to rebuild. (But the 1978 calipers take 3.5 hands to get the boots on. Ask WelderScott as he came back two weeks ago yesterday 'cause he couldn't get them on. And it took the two of us quite a while to do it.) There's really not much to the calipers. There's the piston, which may need replaced because some of them are phenolic with a metal crown and the metal is usually bad. Then there's a square-cut o-ring and a boot. The o-ring just sits in a groove and the boot has a metal ring on it that presses down into a recess. So most of the work is in cleaning it. Pull it apart and use brake cleaner and a brass wire brush to get all of the deposits off. Lube things with brake fluid and put them back together. -
Coil gets HOT and engine cuts out. 1984 F250
Gary Lewis replied to Starliner's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Yes, it has to be something in the mechanical linkage that isn't causing the module to come back to Run. I don't think there's a spring in the switch. It just slides. So all of the positioning is from the key tumbler and linkage. As said, we see a lot of this in the winter when the grease sets up and doesn't let the linkage and switch come all of the way back to Run. What usually is witnessed is that the accessories don't come on, like the turn signals, clock, and radio. But the engine still runs. I'd pull the tumbler and flush it out with cleaner and then lube it. And go through the linkage doing the same. Look for where it might be rubbing on something. -
WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
Gary Lewis replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Probably. But those things have to be limp! Here's part of the cross reference chart to take ID # to part number. You can see that E4TA 18080-GA crosses to E4TZ 18125-E, which was later replaced by E7XZ 18125-D. (Yes, I know yours say -G4A, but that # doesn't exist in the list. And, it wasn't unusual for Ford to put a # in there to designate a minor change.) -
Sky's Front Superduty RSK on a 2wd
Gary Lewis replied to VWThomason's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Yup, know the feeling well. I think I'll wind up making longer links, but it wasn't intuitively obvious to the casual observer exactly where the upper brackets ought to go until the weight was on the suspension, and by then I'd lost interest in getting them on. So that's a step after I get the truck on the road. -
Matt - See what you think now. I'm not terribly happy with the alignment of the pictures and the text, and expect you to want some changes. Just let me know and I'll sort it tomorrow. Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers
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Matt - It's just gone 3 AM! What are you doing up? I'll see what I can do about that tab......
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Crimping is how I do it, and I also use adhesive-lined heat shrink. Works great. On the Bronco tailgate, two things: 1. We have a thread on it here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/How-to-open-a-tailgate-on-a-Bronco-that-the-electrical-system-is-not-working-td51705.html 2. We have the factory shop manual section here: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window
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Yes, it is looking great!
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Coil gets HOT and engine cuts out. 1984 F250
Gary Lewis replied to Starliner's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Yep, which is why the ubiquitous Chrysler ballast resistor is ceramic. -
Matthew - Well done! Would you like that to be put on a page to immortalise it? I'm thinking it would be on a new tab, maybe called Park Repair, or Repairing Park Position, or somesuch on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers. What do you think?
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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
Gary Lewis replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
I forgot about that "acquisition"! -
That would certainly explain the burning rubber smell. And the shifting would be poor as well.
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What an awful story, Bill! Post it on Facebook where FedUp might see it?
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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
Gary Lewis replied to ratdude747's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
I'll stay away from Enginetech. On the brakes, the front calipers don't slide very well so they don't center perfectly. Therefore there's usually more wear on one side than the other. Anyway, you are homing in on a Blooming Onion! -
Rob - That's quite the update! A LOT OF WORK! Now you see one of many reasons why I don't want the C-II pump. Just turn the wheel and it'll puke its guts out, all over the engine, floor, etc. Add noise and lower assist and it has three strikes. I like the headliner. I hope you'll show more pics of how it looks and tell us how it sounds. But I'll bet that the sound deadener and foam makes a big difference. What brand is your pressure regulator? Looks a lot like the Holley I've run.
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The starter was a PMGR - right? Glad it worked out for you. How do you make battery cables? Crimp? Solder? What size?
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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
Gary Lewis replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Well done, Matthew! That sure cleaned up nicely. :nabble_anim_claps:What wax are you going to use on the hub cab? -
Coil gets HOT and engine cuts out. 1984 F250
Gary Lewis replied to Starliner's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
That's easy to explain. When idling your alternator is basically not charging the battery so your voltage will probably be about 12.6. But when you rev the engine the alternator does charge and the voltage probably goes up to about 14.4. Doing the math, 10.5 divided by 12.6 gives .8333. And 14.4 times .8333 = 12.0. -
Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
Gary Lewis replied to ratdude747's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Bummer! What brand was your gasket kit? -
I got a little bit lost on the AC relays. Let me state it how I think you meant it: You need a ground to tell the Sniper when the AC is on The Sniper provides a ground when it wants to kill the AC If that's the case then I think you are stuck using two relays - one to give the ground to the Sniper when the AC is on, and one to open the circuit to the AC when the Sniper wants to turn it off.
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The Vue wasn't worth the climbe. We worked 4 hours, but only 2 of those were on the alternator. You literally have to pull the two front engine mount bolts and jack the engine up 2" to get it out. And during that time he told me he wanted to replace a bolt in the exhaust system that had broken off. He had the nut and part of the "bolt". So I got the right nut and bolt and we jacked it up and put a jack stand under one side and he slid under. Long story short it was a stud, made of the hardest material known to man, and welded to the exhaust pipe. We cut the head off and still couldn't drive it out. In the end we drilled it, and only broke two bits and dulled at least half a dozen others. You can do the math: Gary & Dennis worked for 4 hours, and changing the alternator took 2 hours. How many hours did they drill and cut on one stud? Anyway, yes I was going to order a 3/8" round-over originally. But I now have a 1/8", 3/16, 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" so I have options. (Note that the Amazon advert says the set includes 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", but mine has the 3/16" instead of the 7/16".) And all with 1/2" shank. Thanks to you. And, along the way I put fasteners 1/4" from the edge. So, I think I'm constrained to use either the 1/8 or 3/16", and probably the 1/8".