Gary Lewis

So what I see is the inertia switch is on the Switch side of the relay and should not play a role in the coil side of the relay. I have not tested the ECA at Pin 22 since replacing the ECA but the old one was loosing Ground at Pin #22, hence the replacement of the ECA. After reviewing the schematics, there is nothing in the coil side of the FPR on either power supply (#86 on the relay) or the Ground side (#85 on the relay), Power is supplied from a junction at a 20A link and ground is supplied by the ECA. I was planning on installing the ground switch relay at pin #85 on the FPR. You are absolutely right! The inertia switch isn't in the coil circuit. And if you were losing ground at the ECA then it wasn't a circuit problem. But, it wouldn't hurt to make sure this ECA is losing ground as well. And, if so that means something else is causing the problem - unless your new ECA is also bad. So, while the ground relay at the FPR would work, it would just be covering up the other problem. But at this point maybe you don't care?

Wait! You are looking for the switch on the clutch pedal? Those are available. David found one here, and although that listing has ended you can get the part number there. As for the blower, it is pretty simple - the switch and resistors ground it. So the fact that the lights dim suggests it is getting power. It is easy to take out so I'd take it out and see if it spins. And yes, the stock setup is that the horn is grounded and, w/o speed control, the horn pad on the steering wheel provides power. (With speed control it grounds the horn relay, which in turn provides power to the horn.)

Yes on the latter, CKT 97 supplies ground to the fuel pump relay from the ECA. I am loosing ground intermittently as tested from back probing the relay. I can add ground to it and it works as it should, I can remove it and sometimes it will continue to work and other times the ground disappears. Besides my timing being out of wack, which is something that will be addressed as soon as I figure this issue out, Nothing in the system that I know of is wrong other than loosing ground on CKT 97. Just reread your post, It is a brand new ECA, still having the same issue as before I changed the ECA. I am thinking something in the system is telling the ECA to cut ground on CKT 97 But after going through the diagnostics and wiring diagram, I can't seem to figure it out. So I know what is happening, just don't know why. I have used relays in the past for similar issues, but those were on no computer controlled and generally homemade setups on equipment. If you are measuring at the fuel pump relay then there are several things it might be. It might be the inertia switch or the wiring to and from it. And if it is betwixt and between the STI and the FPR then adding the relay at the STI won't do it. Have you tried testing both the ECA and the fuel pump relay at the same time? In other words, placing a meter or a test light on pin 22 of the ECA and another on the FPR's coil ground? If when the ground goes away on the FPR the ECA still has a ground then there's a problem between.

Gary, Page 62 of the 1985 EEC w/EFI 5.0 shows the fuel pump relay and the terminal junction in a triangle represented by (YY). That wire is the ground wire coming from Pin 22 from the ECA and is also the ground from the test port. I have reran the ground wire for the ECA to the back of the engine and am still loosing ground. Can I have your thoughts on using a 5 pin relay as an ignition activated ground switch supplying ground to this circuit if I were to add it. Do you think it would cause a back feed issue with the ECA or cause another issue in the system? Not being familiar with Ford electronics I can't call but really don't see that it would. What are your thoughts? Greg - I'm not sure what you mean by "loosing ground". Do you mean the whole ECA is loosing its ground? Or do you mean that the ECA is not grounding Ckt 97 as it should to bring in the fuel pump relay? Are you sure that the inertia switch is closed? If it is the latter then adding a relay to do that would work. However, whatever the original problem is will still be there. If it is just that the ECA's transistor to pull in the fuel pump relay is fried, then it may not be a problem. But if there's another problem there may be a problem.

Don't know what you are looking for in a GPS, but I'm interested in something like the Garmin Inreach devices. They provide both GPS and satellite communications so you aren't completely out of touch. You may not need that, but I would like to have it since I plan to take BB to some remote places where cell coverage won't be available and CB probably won't reach. That way my family can keep tabs on me and I can get help if needed.

I'm still looking for the right part number for the switch. Haven't found it in the MPC. As for the blower motor, are you saying it doesn't turn? That the lights just dim? And on the horn, do you have cruise/speed control? I ask because that makes a big difference in the horn circuit, oddly enough.

I'm not up to speed on flexplates as I've not purchased one. Just used the Motorcraft ones that came on vehicles. But, looking at Rock Auto I only see two brands for the 351M: ATP & Pioneer. You've broken a Pioneer and the ATP is even less expensive. But, that gave me a part number, D1AZ6375A the same as you have, and a search for that found this post by Bill/Numberdummy back on FTE. At that time, 11 years ago, Bill found 32 of them in various Ford dealers. But, the MSRP was $186.57, which may tell us something about the quality of the ones at about $30. So, if it was me, I'd call the dealerships that had the flexplates way back then and see if they still do and at what price? Bill supplied the phone numbers. And, if that doesn't pan out I'd look for something stronger than the $30 ones - even if it means going billet. In your shoes I'd be DONE with breaking them and wanting something that absolutely will not break. In fact, in light of the Motorcraft unit being so expensive, I'd seriously consider using that money for a STRONG aftermarket one.

The front locations look ideal as they'll shower the whole engine compartment with light. And while your body will block light from some of the LEDs hitting whatever you are working on, light from the others should fill in. But will the light from the rear strips be right in your eyes? I guess there's no way to know but try them there. And, remind me of where the switch is going to be? I'm thinking of why you have the wiring pointing in the directions you do. I know you have a plan.....

In the Honda XR650L world, they are known as Pigs. I guess because they are the biggest heaviest "dualsport" dirtbike you can buy.....that is STILL a dirtbike and not some amalgamation of street/dirt bike like a KLR. The Suzuki DR650 still is setup like a dirtbike....kind of. But has CRAP stock suspension. So....I think a Bull+ a Mule+ a Pig= a Rhinosaurus? Hahaha Little Red?

On a good note, us guys that have only a 16 gallon side tank can fill-up much quicker! They outlawed the latches on the gas pump nozzles here years ago, so you have to stand there for the whole fill-up. I don't use my truck that much, so having my full tank range being limited to only 240-250 miles is just fine for me. If I ever get the opportunity to take the truck on a trip, I'll be wanting to stop more often than that anyway. There's not a chance I can drive 57 gallons of gas out of Big Blue, even if I'm towing heavy. My bladder or that of a passenger will not sit still for it. But, being able to go into remote places and not have to carry Jerry cans will be nice.

Bummer! So, what are the absolutely essential things to do? The alternator? (Boy, I wish we had an underline button.)

That's why I asked "Does this not work for you?" I'm still stumped by your problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Honda-CT/274390913975?hash=item3fe2f913b7:g:CXcAAOSwu51e3Yza https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Honda-CT/283903759877?hash=item4219fb9605:g:wYoAAOSwCMBe2qr4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Honda-CT/133429052437?hash=item1f10fdc415:g:fSAAAOSw~K5e2D0Z https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-Other/254528997474?hash=item3b431c4862:g:PH0AAOSwzrZeWBU0 Those are really nice. But our son told us the other day that Honda has a 125 that is very much like the Trail 90 and is supposed to come to the US soon. And it goes for $4k new, which is about what the vintage ones are. But, wouldn't a pair of those in the back of Big Blue look good!

Well done! Both on reminding us what you had and what you've done as well as how it turned out. Sounds like the rear brakes are starting to work, which should make things a bit less sensitive. So, how are you going to tie that square tubing in? Or, more correctly, to what? The frame? And, how are you going to get around the roll cage?

Yes, Scotty is all of those things. I really like dealing with him and can't recommend him enough.

Well, that's a big improvement. I don't know about the blend door. Maybe Bill or someone else does?

Yes, glad you got it fixed. And I don't agree with the idea that replacing the fluid is bad. But we can agree to disagree.

Glad you figured it out. I don't seem to be able to change the color of a route, so hope to keep GPSKevin's markers green and ours blue. But I thought it would be helpful to have his route on there and use it as much as we can, and deviate only to go to the locations we want to see. On the bike, having a few tools with you is a very good thing. Hopefully you'll get plenty of riding in 'twixt now and then and they may come in handy. As for names, how 'bout Bull?

Following! This sounds like fun.

You are gonna be BUSY! Hope it goes well.

I can neither confirm nor deny. Obviously the F5 is for a 1995 vehicle. However, every hit on 3513016 in our MPC says that generic # is for an F350 crewcab, not a Bronco.

I don't think I'll lack for power. Scotty said no one has complained about a lack of power with that engine from him. As for the 14 MPG, that's my optimistic estimate. I could get 11.5 - 12.0 MPG with the worn out engine and T-19. So I'm hoping that a fresh engine with a ZF5's overdrive will bump it up to, hopefully, 14.

Ray - I think that's a reasonable approach. I'll lay out GPSKevin's route first as he's found, supposedly dirt/gravel roads, and then see where we want to deviate to hit those locations. As for the changes on the bike, I think a lithium ion battery would save a lot of weight as well as free up some room. Didn't know that is an option. Cool!

Ray - We need to figure out how to discuss/decide on the route. As you can see, I've been working on a map that should facilitate that discussion. But the map is going to evolve over time, so each time you refresh it I'd bet it'll change.For instance, this morning I added GPSKevin's route from near Hulah to where it intersects with what I'd come up with due east of Newkirk.However, I then realized that I could bring my starting point, the "A", up north a bit. But, that begs these questions: Does it matter where we start from? Can that be Skiatook? If so, how badly do we want to meet up with GPSKevin's route prior to where they join?If we can start in Skiatook and join up with his route after the Tall Grass Prairie, then I can start looking for ways from here via dirt/gravel roads to that point.

I think originally the 38 gallon tank was a replacement for a 32 gallon tank on a Bronco. But it fits an F-Series so that's what I'm going with. So with the 19 gallon mid-ship tank I'll have a 57 gallon capacity, and even with a 460 I might be able to pass a gas station or two.