Gary Lewis

Yes, it looks wonderful! Glad you found the right #. I need to capture that somewhere.....

Gary, that's correct, there's one sensor in each exhaust side, about 24 inches past the head. I know a lot of people only monitor one bank of a V engine, but I just can't bring myself to completely trust that. And in fact you can see just at idle that the banks are .3 off from each other. Not a huge difference, but it is different. Do the readings stay off as you drive? Or do they come together? I’m wondering about a difference in the sensors or the gauges themselves. Maybe try cross-wiring them to see if it is the sensors or gauges.

A buddy had one at his station and why I thought of it. The wheels that went under the car or truck did not swivel they were steel with a nut & bolt thru the out rigger. This did not fold up so he would push it out of the bays along with some other equipment when he opened up and push it back in a closing time. Not fun when it been snowing all day to push that stuff back in This would have been back in the 80's so I don't know if they had folding cranes back then? Dave ---- I think I can cut the legs off and re-use them, which will make it a lot easier. Not sure when I'll do this, but glad we had the conversation as I now know what to do. Thanks, y'all!

Looks good! The Innovate gauges go to the different banks of the engine?

Try it and let me know how it goes. But even if that works for you, others won't know to do it, so I need to fix it.

To test the vacuum advance, pull the hose off the carb and suck on it. With the distributor cap off you should see the plate inside turn as you apply vacuum. As for constant vacuum to the vacuum advance, there are two schools of thought. I don't like to have vacuum at idle and then have it come in as you apply throttle. Others like vacuum all the time. But on the 300 six with the Carter YF or YFA, there is frequently no port that gives full manifold vacuum, so you have to use the one they supply. In any event, you shouldn't need vacuum advance to get it started. It sounds like your timing is late. I'd put it at least at 8 BTDC, if not 12.

Jim - My SiL and I had a good conversation about this today. Basically the issue is that many of the menu items requires you to hover over them if on a desktop or touch them if on a mobile device. Touching them should do the same as hovering, meaning expanding the menu. And then another touch is the equivalent of clicking on it. But apparently on yours one touch is the equivalent of clicking. TJ, my SiL, suggested that you click on the three dots and ask for Chrome to be in desktop mode. And while that may work for you, surely there are others with that problem. So, I need to go through the website and rework things so there are no pages that can be clicked with other pages below them. And that's going to take time. But, I'll do it!

Ok, Bill. I should have the system from Huck. I think. Perhaps I can ressurect it. I'll go looking tomorrow or Monday. Thanks.

Sure looks like a lot of work, Dave. But it will be worth it in the long run. You are going to love it. And, you are problem solving quite well.

Rob - It does look like a new one is in the offing. Shaun - I knew I was going to have to replace the clutch and pulley, but assumed it would bolt to the bracket. So it is the FS6 that is the right compressor? I wonder what I did with the one off of Huck? Surely by '90 they'd gone to that compressor. I'd planned to use the clutch and pulley from it, but may have to put a new compressor in.

You can see who has them online by searching for the part number. Go here and look your application up and get the two-character code: Documentation/exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding. Then go here and find the part number by using the two-character get the part number: Documentation/Exterior/EXTERIOR MOULDING RETAINERS

I currently have outriggers on the back on which the rear wheels ride, and they can be widened. But I can't imagine needing them set wider than 48". In fact, I'm not sure they can currently go wider than 48".

It looks like the inside of Big Blue's tires are ~60" apart. But the outside of the engine stand is 34". So if the H were at least 36" apart on the inside it would work. And since each leg is 3" that would mean the outside would be at least 42" across. Given that, I could rebuild the shop crane in an H, and might make the outside of the legs be 48" apart. That would make it usable on smaller vehicles and yet allow max stability. Or, I might be able to make the H adjustable width-wise. Not sure that would be very helpful, but it would allow for minimum storage space. And in any case the legs would still fold up.

Well, my SiL helped me put the A/C system in place today. And, there's a problem - the compressor doesn't mount to the bracket. Thoughts? Make an adapter bracket? New compressor?

Jim - The last time we found this it was on the page called Interior. I made that page non-clickable and it seemed to fix the problem. So I just made Electrical non-clickable. Please see if that works for you.

Sounds like a fun game. As for adding you, happy to do so but where?

LOL! Maybe so.

Steve - I think Clay said the tranny shop had checked crankshaft end play but not runout, and that the runout was excessive. As for the rebuild, I bought Rusty with a "newly-rebuilt engine". I didn't pay to have it done. And when I asked who built it he said "my cousin".

Looks like you figured it out.

Good deal! You'll be wrenching soon. As for the Subie, the new cap appears to have fixed it. We filled the radiator up and marked where the coolant was in the expansion tank and then the car was driven around town for a while. The next morning the level in the expansion tank was down just about an inch, which doesn't represent much coolant as it was in a narrow neck of the tank, and the radiator was full. Yesterday it was driven to BA and back on the highway, a distance of about 60 miles, and after it cooled the radiator was full and the coolant at the same point in the tank. And tomorrow it is going to Wichita and back on Tuesday, a distance of about 300 miles. All of this is working up to a 1200 mile trip to Charleston, SC in about a month when the kids move there for a while.

Dave - I'm not ready to say it is the picker or the stand. It is just an incompatibility of the two. My shop crane has angled legs, making it of the V variety. And the stand is a K. So they don't play well together as the K doesn't go far enough into the V to let the boom get to it. Scott - I think rather than draw it I need to demonstrate it. And test it. But not until I get Big Blue motivating again as I don't want to take the time and I don't have the space. However, you may be thinking better than I am. As I contemplate the tall-wheel scenario I'm not seeing that working if the tall wheels are on the stand. IIRC the stand's legs have to go inside the crane's legs, and the only way tall wheels would work is if they were on the crane and the stand went under the crane's legs. But, the crane already sometimes hits the front axle on an F150 or Bronco, so I can't go higher with it. That gets me back to Dave's suggestion of the crane being an H, with the legs wide enough to let the stand come in, but not so wide that they hit the inside of the tires. Most track width is fairly standard so I could figure out what would work there, and then see if my stand would fit inside of legs set that far out. If so, that might be a reasonable approach. If not.... However, I'm not ready to rebuild my shop crane.

I probably would too. Sold my uncle that red flatbed. He drove it for a couple months and the 9" went out on him. Cant remember exactly what happened. But you and I had that axle apart in your shop during a GTG one year. We did outter axle bearings and seals, and inspected the third member and it all looked pretty good.... This stuff dont last forever ya know? I do remember refurbing that 9", and would have bet it was good for another 100,000 miles. Goes to show what I don't know.

You are right, Ray. But I still feel badly.

I'm confused as the pics seem to be exactly the same - what's shown below. But it looks good! What headlights are those?

I suspect that there were really small differences in the ECU, probably for emissions purposes, that don't make much difference in daily driving. Glad you can get it worked out through O'Reilly's.