Gary Lewis

I had a similar thing happen with Sears. It took everything I had to break them loose. Took it back to Sears and talked to the shop manager and explained that when the rotors warped they'd be paying for them. And, that they'd lost my business forever. Fortunately we caught it early enough that the rotors never warped. But I've NEVER been back to any Sears automotive service, and won't. (However, I did manage Sears IT infrastructure for a while. )

Yipes! Thanks, but some of those are $125/ea. Or ugly! Or both! I'll be thrilled to get a pair from Jonathan if he discovers he has too many. Or, we have a large truck salvage not far away and I might be able to find a pair there.

Yes, that line is frail. So check it out.

All of the above. And if the check valve isn't there or isn't working then when you accelerate the HVAC system loses vacuum. But if the check valve is there the HVAC system, being sealed, keeps its vacuum and it doesn't change modes.

Greg - I'm not sure what you are asking. Those pages are right here on the website. In the menu go to Documentation/Electrical/EVTM and then either the 1985 or 1986 EVTM and then the section on Electronic Engine Controls. Does this not work for you?

Oops, orgot I was logged in as Test.

Never heard of Orange. But I'll be looking for it.

Bummer! Sure hate that, Ray!

To do that chock the wheels and put the park brake on. Then, with the engine off, put the shift lever in D and slide under the truck. There you'll see a bolt/nut combo holding two pieces of the linkage together. If you loosen that you can then shift the tranny by hand. Find Park and then back it off through Neutral and into Drive. Then tighten the nut/bolt. And, I should have said that the adjustment of the indicator comes after that.

Yes, "K" should be a C6. And yes, you could stop it from going into 1st if the linkage is not adjusted properly. The General Automatic Transmission Section from the factory shop manual (Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/General Automatic Transmission Section) says: To do that chock the wheels and put the park brake on. Then, with the engine off, put the shift lever in D and slide under the truck. There you'll see a bolt/nut combo holding two pieces of the linkage together. If you loosen that you can then shift the tranny by hand. Find Park and then back it off through Neutral and into Drive. Then tighten the nut/bolt.

Jim - No, I ordered clutch kit 07-910 and flywheel LFW109. (Look here. )

That 5A during cranking, which bypasses the resistor wire, is less than what I expected. As is the 3.7A for engine off & key on. So that says the DS-II module has more drop across it than I expected. But the other readings are pretty much to be expected since the coil is only conducting a portion of the time while it is being "charged".

I don't think I've ever seen a manual steering truck. That thing is BASIC!

Yes, I'd agree that's the model to get. As for the scans, my new scanner and associated software usually turns murky pages into pretty much black and white, although I do it in gray scale. So I think that would be good documentation to have.

Jim - if you don’t have the ability to scan those sheets, how about mailing them to me and I will.

That’s interesting. The alternator is rated 130 but puts out 106 at 1600, 134 at 2500, and 160 at 5000 RPM. But that’s alternator R’s and the 1986 Dealer Fact Book says the 460 is geared 3:1. So it puts out 106 at 533 engine R’s, 134 @ 833, and kicks out 160 amps at 1666 R’s. Wow! No wonder the 3G is a favorite!

Yippee!

Very hard to tell from the pic. I'm in no hurry, so am happy to wait to see what you get.

That's what I thought at first, but I figured you could tell the transfer case shift lever isn't installed, but it is a grainy cell phone picture. I think I may need to revise the plan for Big Blue:

At one point I was toying with installing one of the winch-style carriers on Dad's truck, until I wrote this here: But if a winch-style carrier would work it would solve the problem of the heavy spare. My intent was to use a fold-down license tag holder like the one Chris/ctubutis sent me, below, to cover a hole in the bumper to access the winch's drive mechanism.

Let us know what you find, please.

Glad you got it done! I’ll bet it will make a big difference in the way the truck drives.

You can measure the current if your meter has a 10 amp or larger scale. Just put it in series between the positive of the coil and the red/light green wire and turn the key on. E=IR so I=E/R. If battery voltage is 12.6, the resistance is 1.1 and the coil is 1.5, then 12.6/2.6 = 4.9 amps. But, I don't think you'll measure that 'cause the DS-II module has a voltage drop across it. Assuming it is the standard .7v for a transistor then voltage = 11.9 and the current may be more like 4.6 amps.

You are absolutely right! I'd not ever seen that. The EVTM says:

Yes, you've proven the resistance wire is in place. And the difference between 1.1 and 1.2 ohms could be the leads, as Jim suggested, or just the difference in meters. Low resistance like that is really hard to measure accurately. As for the 10.5 volts you are measuring while the engine is running, I think it is a red herring. The ringing will vary by the coil that you have and whether or not you have a condensor/capacitor snubbing it. And different meters will probably give different readings because the chip in them computes the DC reading differently. But I think you've answered your question - the resistance is there and your system is working correctly.