Gary Lewis

That's great! It is good that there is some support, and if I had an IDI I'd be quite interested.

When I've shipped body panels, like doors, fendors, or tailgates, I've built a crate out of 1" wood. Yes, it certainly added to the shipping cost, but the parts got there w/o bending.

I'm following this, but I'm skeptical as well. However, the numbers don't lie although it is usually best to measure several tanks in a row to get good results. What kind of driving are you doing? I ask because 11.5 MPG is still not all that good for a 351W/C6 combo if it is on the highway. But if around town that's not too bad. On the other hand, 8 MPG certainly IS bad.

The specs on the ones in that link say the whole roll pulls 44 watts, and that's for 5 meters which is 500 cm. 500 cm is 16.67 longer than 30 cm, so 16.67 x 1.5 w = 25 watts. And 25/44 = 57%. IOW, I think yours pull roughly 1/2 the current that the ones in the link pull. So, are there different efficiencies in LEDs?

I guess I'll stay with a fixed one. KISS!

It must be a muscle thing with my hip because as I got moving it did not hurt as much, when I first got up I could hardly stand up straight. Thanks on the looking good and did you expect anything less that thorough With the carpet installed I want it to look like the factory installed the over drive and why I placed the OD stick in the pan. That's where the 4x4 stick is right? Dave ---- No, I certainly didn't expect anything less. And yes, on a Bullnose truck the 4wd shifter is through the pan. Later years went through the side of the hump. So yes, yours will look like Ford did it - which is what I'm doing on both of my trucks.

Jim - Thanks. I really appreciate it. But please don't worry about it. I think I can come up with the Ford medium duty grab handles, and would prefer them - assuming I even need them. Again, I appreciate your thought.

Ok, if you like Lou's you are a KEEPER! Spent many happy hours in the old house in Elk Grove. Oklahoma is treating us well. We both grew up here or near here, so when we retired while in IL, having lived a lot of places, we wanted to go "home". We live in a small town, Skiatook, but are 30 minutes from Tulsa, so have most things easily available to us.

Cool! A roll that can be cut to length. And connectors that fit right on. But do those LEDs have the same intensity as yours? This roll has 5000 lumens and the roll is 16.4' long, which puts it at 305 lumens/foot. Or, looking at it another way, each of the 600 LEDs put out 8.33 lumens. Does that match yours?

Ok, you are on the map! But, here's a test for you. Where do you go for pizza? There in Arlington Heights, or do you do as we did when we lived in Elgin and go to Elk Grove? Seriously, now that we live in Okiehoma we order Lou's in, frozen. Not as good as getting it there, but better than what we get here. The only thing we don't get by ordering is the fabulous salad.

No freeze spray, but I might go out and put it in the fridge and see if it'll come out in the morn. If not, the thread lock idea is a good one.

Ok, thanks. But getting that added will take a bit of "quiet time" on my part as I'll have to follow along on two screens. And that means in the shop with the two monitors. Tomorrow!

Looking good. And you will see a significant difference in temp with the valve closed.

I don't have a burr that small. But I have EZ Outs so may be able to back it out. I was just hoping to save it.

Welcome! I like the truck. How 'bout telling us about it in a signature? That way we won't have to wonder and can, therefore, answer your questions accurately. And, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and we could add you with your permission and a location.

I like 5000 K.

That's what I'm doing. I have several 4.8 10MM bolts that drill easily and tap ok. That's what you see in the pic above. But I had an adapter with a rough spot, so ran it in a die using an 8mm bolt to drive it. But it stuck and the bolt backed out. Unfortunately its length is the same as the thickness of the die, so it is sitting pretty much flush on both sides. Any thoughts to save it?

Interesting! We need to figure out how to capture info like this.

Jim - Do you have a recommendation for a source for the roll and the end caps?

Jim - I was wishing I had some of the orange today. The way I was installing the adapters with an 8mm bolt inside as a driver scared me away from using red for fear of locking the bolt in the adapter and the adapter in the bracket. And, apparently I locked an adapter to a bolt with blue, so my worry was reasonable. But the use of a pencil as a driver was a breakthrough. Given the taper of a pencil it digs in when driving, but backs out easily. So I put one in with red and it worked. Bill - The tolerance is tight. The pic below shows my first attempt, which broke through the side. To start that one I used a small center drill to create the hole, but I saw some flex. So on the 2nd one I used a much larger center drill that probably didn't flex as much so put the hole closer to the center of the bolt. And that time the drill didn't break through. So, you would use your new lathe? Or do you need me to make some for you?

I agree that coming up through the taillight would be the way to go. And it looks to me like it would be easy to run wires along the inside of the "gunnel" w/o them being seen, so you should be able to get to the front half of the bed, making it even better! Unfortunately, I realized today that BB has a bed liner and there's no access to that portion of the bed.

You got even more done than I guessed at. Good job! It is looking good, and thorough.

84/86 F-150/350,U150 E4TZ 7506-A //undercut one end, knurled other

1985 through at least '89 for all but the diesels.

I made that one larger. See if that helped.