Gary Lewis

Not sure I'd cut them off just yet. Wait until you get everything going and then make the call. But what are you powering the electric choke with, assuming you have one? One of the red/yellow wires is better than some approaches. The better approach is the get the same wire but after it has passed through the oil pressure switch. That way your choke only runs if the engine is running.

Also, I put a better copy of that illustration on the page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns. (Yes, that's where they are. Got a better idea? )

Do you mean load that picture bigger?

I'm confused as to what the actual question is. But let me see if I can help. Your sig doesn't say, but I'm guessing that you have dual tanks if you have a 460. If so, I think the diagram you want is the one below, although I don't know what an OCRD is, this one is from the 1985 EVTM. Note that connector C325 has a red/yellow hash wire in it, and if you go on down a page or two it says it is near the ignition module. But also note that there's a red/yellow hash wire going off to Page 52. And here's Pg 52, which also shows several other connectors with red/yellow hash wires that are applicable to the 7.5L. Are you trying to figure out which connector that is? Or do you have a problem?

Truck looks WONDERFUL! And that's a cool story!

Well, the square nut worked. Here are a couple of shots. First a closeup and you can see the Loctite on the nut - just like there is on the square nut. It isn't coming off. And this one shows, as best as I can capture, the 1/4" space between the cooler and the condensor. Now the cooler and stay are coming off to be painted/powder coated. And a whole bunch of the 6 x 1mm fasteners as well as some of the parts for the grille mounting......

Depends on what the positive cable looks like. But it never hurts to put new cables on. And, you may be able to resurrect that connection long enough to drive it to Autozone. If there's enough wire that you can cut off the bad wire and put it under the clamp you can probably drive it.

You had/have a very bad battery cable connection. It was dropping enough voltage to get so hot it melted. You have to replace either the terminal itself and shorten the wire as it is surely fried right there, or better yet replace the whole cable. That kind of connection is a problem waiting to happen as things are open to the atmosphere and, therefore, corrosion. I'd get a new cable with all crimped connectors.

Not sure exactly how long BB's been off the road. But just about a year. The thread started in May of '19 and wandered around very badly so it is hard to say exactly when the tear-down started. But sometime last summer. Yes, it will feel good to finally have him running, if not quite on the road.

It is time for the August TOM poll: Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: Brian/Dee's Bullnose: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: Myrl/myrl883's Parts Truck: Jonathan/Ford F834's '81 working:

Scott - Are you SURE it is ok to cut in half? I hate to do that, but.... I do have a paper cutter, so that would be easy. And it is a royal pain to scan each piece of paper, duplicate all of them, re-order them as the bottom half are now in reverse order, and then crop each page to get the right image. But you said it is something like 44 pages. That's only 22 pieces of paper so isn't too bad. It was that 200+ page owner guide that tested my religion. So I can get there by not cutting them. Your call.

That air cleaner is correct for these applications:

Yeah, right. That's what they all say. Seriously though, that must be a blast. Big Blue is a bit large for easily slipping into stalls at Sonic, although he will fit if you are careful. So we don't take my project truck there very often. But Janey asked last night when we'll be taking it out and I said "Maybe in August."

I understand. But my reasoning is that the stud is not meant to be removed. It is there to provide a firm attachment point for the hose clamp. So if I find a way to get a nut of any kind in there and it is sturdy, then I'm not worried about it serviceability as it isn't coming off. In fact, it'll probably be Loctited on. I did come up with another option during the night - a square nut. There's an access hole not far away that I can get through to put the nut in position. So if I can secure the nut in the end of a small wrench using paper towel then I might be able to put it in place. We shall see - after while.

That's a pretty tall, or high, ratio. Should be good for cruising.

Where are the pics?

Once the bottom of the cooler is secured I'll see if I can rotate the "stay" up on the crossmember to start the curve of the hoses earlier. That may allow them to be secured to the bottom of the radiator support with a couple more clamps, which might make the jump back to the engine reasonable. We shall see.

Thanks, guys. The drawing below attempts to depict what I'm seeing/feeling. The part in the middle has a radius to it on the edges, and while the hole is too close to it to get a regular nut on, I'm wondering if the sheet metal nut might get in because of the radius. But if that works the sheet metal nut couldn't spin because it would be up against the piece inside the radiator support. I'll give it a try tomorrow. If not, the idea of a piece of metal bridged across that hole is a good one. But if that doesn't work I might be able to go all the way through as I think I'm far enough below the red piece to get through. And yes, there's no room for a nutsert. As for the thread, I think I was wrong. I'll bet that was 6 x 1mm. It is the smaller of the two thread sizes used all over the radiator support. On a positive note, I did in get the assortment of rubber-lined stainless hose clamps and I'm using three of the 5/8" ones for the oil cooler. And this evening the new hose came in. So when I get the route figured out I'll be ready to install it. Speaking of that, the check I did today said that if I put 90s on I could come straight forward with the hoses just above the oil filter. But there wasn't any obvious way to support the hoses when running that way. So I'm leaning to going over toward the frame since that will give me a way to support the lines. But I'm still thinking about it.

Got a bit done, but not quite as much as I'd hoped. First, I wanted to get at least the top of the cooler positioned so I could play with the hoses w/o fear of those previously-used red zip ties letting go. So I used some 5/8" rubber-lined hose clamps, tapped those two holes 8-1.00, and installed some spare bolts. But if you look closely you can see a scribe mark on the hood latch support. The tube hits the support so it looks like I'm going to have to play http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/florida-man-42_orig.jpg. Then I tried to tie down the bottom of the cooler. However, I ran into a problem. In this pic you can see a hole I drilled, straight above the stainless hose clamp, more of which later. The plan is to put a 1/4-20 all-thread in there with a nut front & back, and then put the clamp you see on the bottom of the cooler over it and secure it with a couple of nuts. But, there's a piece inside the radiator support that is too close to allow me to get a nut back there. I'm wondering if I can use part of a sheetmetal nut and get it in there. Any other ideas? But, with at least the top of the cooler secured I moved on to creating a "stay" for the hoses where the pass the Sky crossmember. You saw it mounted, above, from the front. And here 'tis from the rear: And here are two shots of it before I installed it. I'll need to powder coat it black when I do a number of other pieces as well as several of those bolts with white heads and washers.

Guilty! But that's easily fixed. Let's see, the radiator goes where? The anodizing idea could go with it or to Big Blue's thread as I'm gonna paint the oil cooler. What else?

Looks good! Looking forward to a report on how the temp gauges work. But, spend time with your son. Been there, done that with our daughter, and a week later we REALLY miss them.

I feel like round in square is "incongruent". I looked up that word and it means "not congruent". Congruent seems to mean "identical in form; coinciding exactly when superimposed". I don't expect the headlights to be identical to the doors, but round in square just jarrs.

A bit of reading says that anodizing requires the part to be VERY clean. My oil cooler isn't. Also, lots of things I've read say that a thin coat of high temp black spray paint, like for a BBQ grill, actually helps transfer heat. So I think that's the way I'll go as it'll be easy and doesn't require the cooler to be as clean.

Good info, thanks Bill. And those 90s would send the lines straight forward where the barbs on mine currently send the lines up and into the mess of hoses and tubes going to the power steering pump and steering box. The hose I bought says right on it "Min 3 inch bend" so I want to be careful and not try to bend it too tightly. I'll see in a bit how the lines might best run to get to the front w/o tight bends and yet stay out of harm's way.

Wow! It looks great! And I love the chip guard in the paint at the bottom. But I didn't know there was a Grabber Green. I had a Grabber Blue truck in '72 but didn't realize there was also a green. It certainly does grab you.