Gary Lewis

I was tempted to quote James previously, but didn't. Will now: Yes, it is a beautiful region. But it is unfortunate there was so much damage elsewhere from the recent storm. From what I understand there are still lots of people w/o power.

Yep, I was thinking that's probably what they had. I ran across the one for Big Blue's rear axle vent yesterday as I was removing hoses and test-fitting tanks. But I don't have any more of those, so I'm thinking that a plastic fuel filter pointing down would be the best solution. That way if water gets up that high there should be pressure to keep it from going in. Right?

You guys had me craving fish and chips after all this seafood talk the other day...lol. As I said, I don't eat it all that often, but it sure is good when I do. This was in a small restaurant in a local hotel. "Some good" as we say around here. Here's a picture of the donor truck that will be turned into a Bullnose. I just stopped by and paid for it last night and will likely have it picked up next week. Like everything else around here, it's a rust bucket, but I'm OK with that. I still have almost a full gallon of Ospho and lots of wire wheels and flapper disks (and wire for the Mig). The good news...for me.. It's a factory 5.0L 5spd truck. I like that. Short wheelbase means I don't have to shorten it. Front and rear factory swaybars are nice (don't have to hunt for them) 3.55 geared diffs. I'll be running 31's, so I think the 3.55 gears will be a great match up. Yes, I'm drooling as well. What kind of fish is that? My favorite is cod. But I'm with Jim - a needle scaler would be my prefered rust remover. And even then you'll be covered in rust. Anyway, a 5.0/5-speed/short bed combo sounds like a sporty truck.

Very well it seems. I tested 4HI and LO around Bills ~40 acres. Took 7 south out of Bennigton to Pittsfield, then some nice country roads across to 8 and down to Norwalk so Bill could get his other Dodge out of the shop it's been at for four months. I made it down to CT without incident Had it up over 100 a couple of times, so it seems 'tested' Cory - That sounds like the kind of a trip we like to do. Catch several things along the way, some for Janey and some for me, and just have fun. And it looks like you did! But the Blue Mule "shines with her own kind of light" in those shows. Easy to pick her out. Jim - That road certainly does have some pretty country. When I was working I had a client in Pittsfield and I've spent a fair bit of time there. Beautiful country. But I think it is safe to say the t-case works. Wow, you test them thoroughly!

I agree, that's a steal! I do NOT need another project, but if it were closer.....

I probably can't answer the question, but I think the main page is fine. Gary can move it later if need be. Yes, the main page is the place to put it. Here in NMSH fewer people will see it.

Danielle - Welcome! Glad you joined, and hope you'll do more than "pop in from time to time". We are a community, even though we live in 12 different countries at the moment. Speaking of where we live, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and would love to put you on it if we had a town/zip. (No addresses as we don't want people looking us up.) Also, don't miss that we have a virtual truck show going on. You can read about it at Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show, but it is open to all members. Just write up your truck, similarly to the way the others have, and send that and pics &/or videos to me via email and I'll add you.

NP. And yep exactly. It would make sense to get the voltage drop in whatever is determined to be the origin of the hot side of the HVAC wiring (which could be debatable I suppose, but apples to apples it wouldn't really matter in determining the improvement of the relay mod) and not all the way back to the battery. But I'm still curious. I'm only getting about 10 volts at the backup lights which is keeping me up at night. Mark Yes, Scott, I measure my drop from the battery's positive post to the motor's positive lead at the connector. And similarly I measure the the return side drop from that connector to the battery's negative post. Obviously that's best case and a relay won't quite have that much effect, but it'll come close.

Jim - My relay kit is to be here any day, and hopefully there will be a clue or two that will let me find that TSB in the many, MANY books I have.

Thanks, Bill! That's good to know. Yes, I'd noticed that there is a huge difference on the size of the vapor line, as BB's is tiny compared to Huck's. And the rollover valves, which are expected to arrive today, have the much larger barb. So, just take it up to a crossmember and put a fuel filter on it to keep varmints and dirt out?

Great. I know Gary measured a pretty significant drop when he did the test. 2.0 volts on the positive side and .6 volts on the negative side. Together that's a 20% drop as the battery was at 12.9 volts at the time. And I disagree with Dave that regular cabs don't need more flow. Big Blue's A/C had to run on High most of the time, and it was supposedly fully charged. Yes, the evaporator was partially clogged, but not badly.

You can remember where it is, I'll remember we have it and know how to look for it.

I'm confused - why two sets of pics? What changed? Also, is the air speed in FPM or what?

Ok, I didn't undercoat the tanks, but I did trial-fit the front tank, and had to bend the rear strap a bit to get it to fit right. Then I cut up the inner tube into strips and used contact cement to glue them to the tanks and to the truck where the tanks hit. Then I turned to the fuel lines. First I removed the rear tank lines, which were to run to the switching valve, although I didn't have that. The front lines were already out. Then I checked out the lines from Huck. Turns out there are some damaged connectors and I think I'll have to get a repair kit. However, I'm going to see if I can merge Big Blue's with Huck's. But, I have to figure out exactly how the lines are to run. Fortunately I have the '95 FSM and the illustrations below are going to help a bunch. I'm inserting them here in case someone else needs them. My plans are to end the lines exactly like they need to be for the EFI, meaning with the right connectors at the right locations. Then I plan to create lines that will plug into those connectors and run to the pressure regulator - which, by the way, shipped today.

That's very helpful, Scott. Well done! We need to figure out where to put this kind of info so people don't have to use the search functions. Any ideas?

That's a really neat tool! I'm jealous.

No problem. I'm the research librarian here, and I know where I put things.

You are right, Jim. And if it was me, I'd take the VV off and go with a 2100, pre-EGR. Then pull the computer and the associated distributor, and install a DS-II dizzy from Scotty @ Parkland.

Yes. We have the owner's guides. Go to Documentation/Literature.

Tom - Ford sold many of the EEC-III systems with a 2150 carb instead of the VV. In fact, I'd venture to say a lot more 2150's than VV's. However, it takes the feedback 2150 and not the non-feedback 2150. If you don't go with a feedback carb the computer will get its knickers in a twist and lock ignition timing so your power and economy will be gone. So, in theory you could replace your VV with a 2150. However, I suspect that your computer is set to control the VV and not the 2150. I don't know that's the case, but I might be able to figure it out if you can get me the calibration code, which should be on a sticker on a valve cover, or the tag info off the carb.

Yes, I think it would work fine. I believe that a blue-grommet module is a blue-grommet module. But I can't seem to find E1FZ 12A199-A in my MPC's. It is an ID#, so maybe I can in the cross reference later.

Note the "without headliner" bit: 81/89 F—U100/350 — w/o headliner E1TZ 13776-A #E1TB 13776-AA-dome

For a 1984 - 89 460. Two required. 84/ F250/350 E4TZ 6K743-C R.H. & L.H.

Good ? It is a SWITCH AND COVER ASSY. (FUEL INJECTION PUMP GOVERNOR):

For the little Ranger: 83/88 R R.H. & L.H. E3TZ 9927886-A -r/b E9TZ 9927886-A or E9TZ 9927887-A