Gary Lewis

Looking forward to your report and pics, Jim. PROGRESS!

Gideon - Glad you got the brakes done and the engine doesn't die. But those springs need to be replaced, just as you thought. So, some teenager owned your truck?

Ahhh! My bad! Sorry. You posted above the quote, which is what the email response does. Disregard.

If it is through the timed port, which is possible, then your vacuum advance diaphragm is blown. Which is something that you need to fix. Pull the vacuum hose at the carb, leaving the other end attached to the vacuum advance, and pull a vacuum on it with your mouth. I'll bet it leaks, badly.

Brian - You are now on the map. And, you aren't really all that alone out there. Also, I can tell that you replied via email rather than clicking the link that says "If you reply to this email...". I can tell because of all the excess baggage that comes with posting via email. Take a look at this post and you can see what I mean - it copies in the post to which you are replying. This is your thread so you can do what you want. But others might not appreciate all of the extra baggage that is hard to sort through. Two ways around that: 1. Click on the "If you reply..." link, which will log you onto the forum and post there. 2. If you really want to post via email then click the three dots that most email apps have at the bottom of your reply and delete the baggage before you send the email.

Jim - You are right, several changes need to be made to that. Remind me later as I'm headed out the door to go to church. And then working on BB, then mowing the yard, then..... But seriously, several changes are needed.

Ok, I'll put you down as the polite one since you put Nick's name first in the signature. And, you are right - it is a "little truck family". Several of us have met via the shows or get-togethers (GTG's), and many more were hoping to do so this year. But, we didn't plan on a pandemic. But, we help each other, swap parts, and even pray for each other at times. So "family" is an apt description.

You can't get to the Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade page??????????? I'm not working on anything that will fix that as the problems are in the forum's host and not the documenation's host. (Too much detail?) Are you running an ad blocker? Sometimes those do strange things. Here's the page that shows the shunt. And you are looking for the splices - S203 and S202. S203 is very near the starter relay and S202 is closer to the heater motor, both in the black/orange wire. In Big Blue you could tell what was the shunt and what was normal wire as the shunt's insulation was different. But, it is the wire between those two splices, and they are fairly easy to find as there are three and four wires, respectively, coming out of them.

My HiPos dim, but since I've not had the truck out of the shop since I put them in I cannot say how much they really dim. Having said that, from my experience you aren't going to get too much light with today's LEDs. Even the HiPos. A few years ago at one of the GTG's David/1986F150six and I put LEDs in his dash and added a ballast resistor so there was enough current draw to make the voltage drop across the dimmer effective. Later he sent the ballast resistor back as he ran the LEDs on full all the time.

I'm sure I can speak for others - we are glad you joined! (I think that "you" is plural, as in both you and Nick, but I'm never quite sure which of you is posting.) Yes, it is very frustrating when you post just a seemingly simple question and no one answers it. And while I've been guilty of doing just that, usually someone else here will point out the error of my ways and answer the specific question. And, speaking of that question, there are several different bolt patterns used on Ford engines, and here are the ones used in the Bullnose era: Small Block: (My term) This includes the Windsor engines, such as the 289, 302, & 351W as well as the 300 six and also the 351C. Big Block: (My term) This includes the M-Block engines, meaning the 351M and 400, as well as the 460. But there's a twist - while the bolt pattern is the same the flywheel for manual transmissions is in a different spot so you can't directly swap a manual tranny from a 460 to a 351M or 400 unless you use the right bell housing Diesel: Both the 6.9L and the 7.3L share the same bolt pattern. So to answer the question, the FMX should work.

A bit of searching for "EFI" and "throttle" and "body" found these discussions: Fuel Injection Upgrade Dads 85 F250...Rebuilding an old friend 85 F150 302 EFI upgrade/aftermarket modification Need advice on what to do I'm sure there are more and others will chime in, but that should let you see what some are doing.

Got the "waterproof" relays in today. I'm really impressed. As you can see the terminals into the relay are sealed. And the blue seals on the socket seal the relay's skirt to the socket. Plus, the lines themselves are sealed going into the socket. Now for what I did today, the first thing was to get the fuel line stay installed. But where I wanted to put it was a bit on the busy side with other fasteners, so it took a bit of measuring. However, I got it installed. Here 'tis, albeit with the old fuel lines going through it: But, on the other side you can see how tight the fit was. I couldn't even get nuts in, so I drilled the frame and tapped it 6 x 1.00mm. With that in place I moved on to running the fuel lines through the stay. But, I quickly learned that the factory lines, which are shown in the picture above, that went through the stay were apparently 5/16" as my 3/8" lines didn't want to fit. So I added a spacer in the middle, which seems to have worked as you can see in the pic below, which has the 3/8" lines running through it. And, in the pic below, you can see that that I've added the connector to the supply line and have it connected to the pigtail going up to the EFI fuel rails. And, I've re-used the factory EFI fuel hose that was over the nylon fuel line to ensure the line doesn't kink on those bends. And, it provides a bit of insulation, although I will add the line insulation I have left over from the dip stick and clutch line. Tomorrow the 5/16" connectors are supposed to be delivered so I might get a chance to add one of them to the return line. Then I can start on the hoses going up to the regulator, and placement of the regulator. Amazon delivered the quick-connector/6AN flares, but not the flare/barb connectors, so I may get hung up there.

It is ok here. And that tach, gauge set, and clear cover is what John/Machspeed is looking for.

Yes, you'd be better off getting the whole thing if you aren't good with soldering electronics. As for the clear plastic, I think David/1986F150Six has found them NOS. We didn't have the part numbers in the page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges, but I added them just now. As for the HiPo LEDs, I do really like them. They work very nicely. On the paint, I used HiPo's paint but have also used Testors. They both worked for me. And Dr. Todd Brockman at The Eye Institute did my cataract surgery.

Is it shown in this illustration? If so, give me the generic part number and I'll get you the complete #. Maybe you can find it that way. EDIT: The illustration would have been nice to include.

Well said, Jim. I don't use a soldering gun on a printed circuit. Soldering pen, yes. But keep the heat low as that copper is adhered to the plastic with a glue and you don't want to mess it up.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. You did a good job telling us about the truck. But pics would help. And is the rubber trim that's hanging the adhesive-attached stuff? If so, that was only used in '85 & '6, and is really hard to find. As for doing that work in central Texas in August, that doesn't sound like fun. But what part of central Texas? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd put you on if we had a city or a zip. And you did a great job of providing details. You even have a signature. Well done! Last, don't miss that we are having a virtual truck show and, as a member, you can both enter as well as vote when the time comes. Read all about it at Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show in the menu. Welcome!

Glad you got it fixed. Isn't it amazing what some people will do?!?!?!

You do not have the right printed circuit for a tach. There are two options: If you've not done a lot of soldering I'd suggest getting the whole instrument cluster inc tach.

My 1987 EVTM shows the same. Strange!

Jim - We have info on the spacer on our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade. Here's the pic of the package from Home Depot:

Rusty - I'm confused. The 1980 & 1985 Master Cross Reference books show exactly what you said. However, in reality that's not always true. You can see that from my pic, below, - a printed circuit that ends in "B" and which has gauges and supports a tach. And it has been working quite well. So, I think what we should say is that the versions that support a tach end in "BX", where "X" may not even exist. Does that make sense? Is there a better way to say it?

How about testing with drill bits?

Do you have an ad blocker running? I've seen lots of weird problems with them running. And since we don't have ads maybe you could turn it off if it is on? If not I'll do more checking.

Here's a pic of the speedo cable latch. And while it may be possible to remove it w/o breaking it, mine didn't want to come off. And, here's how to remove it. Note that my finger is on the tab and my thumb on the speedo's input. That's because the latch has to move down a bit to release, so if you put your thumb on the bottom of the latch all you are doing is deforming the latch - and it may break. As for a tach, there are two printed circuits on the gauges - without tach on the left and with tach on the right: