Gary Lewis

Yes, congrat's to both of you! Exciting times! And I agree with you, save the snark for a few more days. Perhaps your boss is the one that picked the Ram trucks. (Did it ever occur to you that running around with a sign that says "Ram" on the back of your vehicle is like the old "kick me" signs?)

I pulled the return line off the front FDM and put it in a gas can. Powered up the pump and the regulator's gauge settled at 5 psi - right on target. Switched over to the rear pump and it worked perfectly as well. Put the return hose back on the front FDM and the rear still worked fine. But switch it over to Front and the pressure wraps the gauge around like it'll twist it off. So I called Spectra and spoke with their tech. He can't believe that I got two bad ones, but fully agrees that my testing proves I did. He also had me check the labels on these two and they are from the same batch, V161, and were both produced the 37th week of 2017. So he told me to call the supplier and get a third one. I called Herko Automotive, who sold it to me, and they will send me a third one once they get one of these two back. So one gets shipped out in the morning. And they agreed to check and make sure the new one is from a different batch - although I didn't get a good warm, fuzzy feeling they actually will. To summarize, it appears to me that there are two possibilities: Bad FDMs: Yes, maybe it can happen to get two bad FDMs since they are from the same batch. But the tech said they test every one of them, so it doesn't seem likely. Opening Pressure: What if the front FDM just requires a different pressure to open the check valve? I don't think the valve ever opens, but what if it is set to open at something like 40 psi and the rear one opens at a much smaller pressure? Whatever pressure the rear is opening at is not causing the regulator any problems, but the excess pressure on the front sure is. This won't really stall the initial firing of Big Blue as I can run off the rear tank just fine as long as there's an FDM in the front. I can certainly drive the truck on the rear tank alone as I've gotten along fine for however long I've had the truck on the slightly smaller front tank. But, if the third FDM doesn't fix it then it seems like I'll need to go EFI sooner than I thought as I'll want the extra gas capacity for trips. So, do any of y'all see another possible problem in this? Something else that could cause the rear to work and the front not to?

Yes, I think it could. So when you pull it down check that out closely.

I'd open it and the OEM one up, side by side, and see what is different. You may find the accelerator pump blown, which will cause an engine to run very rich.

I thought that you'd probably put a tee in right there, which means that you are seeing pump pressure and not after the losses of several bearings, which would be the case at the top/back of the block. So that pretty well says your bearings are worn. You can get by for a while with that pressure, but if you pull the engine you should do a lot more than just do the gaskets and seals. A full rebuild is in order. Having said that, I'd be looking at crate motors. My experience with machine shops of late hasn't been good, and from what I've read a crate motor is frequently less expensive than having your own engine done. And you'll get a warranty, which won't be the case if you build it yourself.

On second thought, there's about 12" of hose from the wye to connector that hasn't been proven. I know from the wye to the rear tank is open, but it is possible that something is wrong from the wye to the front tank. I think I have a piece of that stainless fuel tubing that his the 5/16" fitting on one end, so if I disconnect the return from the FDM and connect it to that line I can run that line into the empty gas can and test to see if the return is completely open. If so, then I'll call Spectra.

Shaun - You can start a thread about this if you want. Pics as well and we can collaborate there - and know where it is rather than in email. David - I hope mine is a bit quieter than that. (But you ought to hear that in the shop with this sound system. ) Now for the bad news. I got the replacement FDM installed and have roughly the same symptoms. On the front tank, where the new FDM is, the pressure goes right on up on the gauge. But on the rear tank it goes up to the set point on the regulator and stays there. I've not pulled the return to make sure that's the problem, again, but I'm loathe to do that. Instead I think I'm going to call Spectra. Perhaps they had a bad batch of those FDMs? Thoughts?

Rob - You may have missed it, but on Dane's implied recommendation of not using RTV, I moved on to seam sealer, which I had laying around. We will find out in a few days as I'm gonna let it set up before I try it. As for starting it up, we shall see. Today I'm swapping out the fuel delivery module in the front tank, and that's a pain! (By the way folks, the FDM holds 370 gallons of gas, and when you tilt it to get it out of the tank up under the bed all 370 gallons run down your arm. ) When that's done and dusted I'll start filling the t-case, transmission, and power steering/hydroboost systems. Then lube the ball joints, tie rods, and u-joints - all of which are new. Oh, I forgot, I have to take the A/C & P/S steering belt off and check the plug wires to ensure they are connected and the timing is where I want it. At that point, whenever it is, I can roll it out of the shop, install the seat and belts, and start it up. Dunno when that will be, but it is SOOOOOOON!!!!!!!

A greased RED herring.

I like the factory knobs more than aftermarket. If I could only find an adapter that fits the splines, but has a 3/8-24 threaded end up top. I'd be golden. So, you have a knob that has a 3/8-24 thread? Now that adapter would be perfect. If we just knew someone with a machine shop..... Maybe together we can figure this out. Later. I'd have to figure out the spline size and count, and use a broach to create the splines in a part that I could then thread. Shouldn't be too hard. Later.

LOL! Yes, probably louder than I want for a while.

Shaun - The Bullnose color break change in '85, didn't it? Big Blue's color changes below the body line, and I thought '80 - 84 changed above the body line. Right?

Dane - I'm glad you spoke up. I saw your response as I was looking for the tube of RTV, which wasn't where I thought it was supposed to be in this chaos of a shop. And along the way I saw the seam sealer, so based on your experience I shot some seam sealer in there, spread it around with a screwdriver, and pushed it on. Hard. Pulled it back off to look, and it appears that I got enough as all of the splines were full on both parts. So it is back on and I'll let it set up a few days before testing it. Thanks!

It won't help, that's for sure. And heavier oil would raise the pressure. As would STP or somesuch. But I have a question - where is the aftermarket oil pressure gauge connected? If it is down by the oil filter, as it probably is on a Windsor, then 5 psi is LOW. That's 'cause the oil may not be making it to the last lifter at that pressure. My thinking about 5 psi not being too bad was based on my 460 and M-Block experience where the oil pressure tap is on the back of the block behind the intake. And that's after the lifters on the M-Block, although I don't know for sure on the 460. Anyway, pressure is naturally lower there as it is after a number of things have been lubed. But if at the oil filter, that is LOW.

First, you did good changing out both the alternator and the regulator. One or the other was bad and one can easily harm the other. Best to replace in pairs. On the oil pressure, that is low. Not terribly low. And not so low it'll hurt the bearings, in my opinion. I would have said it is due to engine wear. But when you said "pull a small hill it goes up over the top it’s back to 10 to 15" you got my attention. With a manual transmission if you are not losing or gaining speed I would have thought it have stayed the same on a hill. Are you maintaining speed? Are you shifting gears? I'm at a loss as to why it would do that if you are maintaining speed and not shifting gears. David/1986F150Six had an issue a few years ago, as described here, but his experience was that the pressure dropped as the RPM went up. And as it turned out the screen in the pickup was partially plugged and that was starving the oiling system as the RPM went up. But yours isn't doing that. I'm not sure why, but other than the symptoms on hills it is consistent with worn bearings.

The splines in it are very well defined and it slips on snugly. It just comes off in your hand when you pull back to shift out of 2wd to 4wd, etc. I think I might try RTV first. I have a tube of black RTV laying on top of the tool box, having used it yesterday to seal the inner ZF5 boot to the transmission cover. That might just be enough to keep it on in use, but allow it to come off if I need to change out the boot.

As the others have said, welcome! And, I'll echo the "where are you located"? But I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if you'd like. Nothing exact as we don't want people showing up on our doorsteps. That's a cool story. Have you seen that we have a "virtual show" going on? Read up on it at Documentation/Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show. You should enter. Computers? I retired from IT, so have seen a few of them myself. But I enjoy wrenching. Welcome!

Thanks, Jim. I gotta get one.

Dane - Thanks, I missed it. Jim - I believe you. So, what do you recommend that will hold it on well enough but still let me get it of when I need to do so? I'm thinking about seam sealer. The stuff I have sets up pretty stiff but isn't permanent.

I like that - The Ugly Truckling!

I'm guessing this must be part of a FB combo, or something? Actually this was something Gary and I talked about when I came to Skiatook in 2017 (using a mill), and I have mentioned it to Chris by messenger. I think opening the clock holes, even without access to machine equipment, is an easier prospect than replicating the finish. Finding an OEM bezel with clock holes already in it is obviously the best, but for whatever reason the clock option was extremely uncommon for XLS. That is still in the back of my mind. It is just nerve-wrecking thinking about cutting a XLS bezel YES! It really IS!

Yep, that looks good, Jim. And I'd do that mod on Big Blue - but I don't plan to put the spare up there. In fact, I don't think I'm strong enough to do so. Still need to have that bumper/spare tire carrier made....

Yep, it is possible to reset the odometer to match your current on, and you can do that using Motorcraft/Ford instructions: Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and the Reset Odometer tab. (If you knew it was there and couldn't find it you weren't alone. I had to search for it. ) Yep, that's the way it is supposed to come apart, as shown below:

Ok, which one is that? My go-to Rigid's battery is on its last legs so I need something to replace it. But I'm not finding a Bauer magnetic base 180 LED work light in Harbor Freight. Do you have a link?

Yes, I forgot the flashlight holder! I was frequently told "Point the light where I'm working not where you are looking!" And that meme says it all.