Gary Lewis

Ray - I'd forgotten about that. The one I was remembering was Dad's truck. But on one, if not both, I remember using all-thread to push the bushing out.

So what would you say of George's 429 Mustang scenario? It's not what the car came with, but it's not modernized in any way. I'm of the mind that "period correct" whether factory or aftermarket does not fit the "modernized" aspect of restomod. It's a Hot Rod for sure, but not restomod. Then again, I don't think adding a Pertronix distributor to your Super Bee (in and of itself) would count as restomod either. Maybe I feel that the changes have to be more drastic. By most of the definitions I've read of "restomod", any deviation from factory is a modification. So pointless ignition, as in Pertronix, would make it a restomod. But you are right, there has to be some limit to that. If I added a right-hand rear view mirror, which most cars had but which my '69 Bee doesn't, would that be a mod? Technically yes, but there's no documentation on the vehicle to say it didn't have one, so... (Trust me, it needs one! The first day I had it I looked to the right and there was no car showing in the mirror so I started to move over. Then I realized there was no car showing in the mirror as there was no mirror. But, there was a car there!) But to the question about the 429, that's a modification. But George's question about it being a clone is a good one. I guess I'd say that swapping the engine to a 429 makes it a restomod. But adding all of the badging and labels to say it is a Boss 429 is making it a clone. So, maybe my personal dafynitions would be: Restoration: If it is essentially the way it rolled off the assembly line it is a restoration. Ok, maybe you can sneak a Pertronix module in the dash and go pointless and still call it a restoration. But you can't remove the Holley and put an AVS on there 'cause that's an improvement. Restomod: Anything that at, at first blush, looks like a restoration but turns out to be modified - for whatever reason. A 429 in a Mustang that didn't come with one would be one. An '85 F250 w/a '95 engine, transmission, front axle, and fuel system would be one. Clone: A vehicle that has had parts and badging changed to make it like, if not the same as, another vehicle. A 302-based '69 Mustang with a Boss 429 and all associated badging would be one. As would a '69 Bee with a Hemi and the associated D60 rear axle. (Note that Detroit put a D60 behind a Hemi and under a 460.)

I think the term "restomod" is poorly understood or, maybe more accurately, poorly defined. Here are a few definitions I've read: Original Parts Group: A true “restoration” is a vehicle that has been reassembled with the goal of bringing it back to factory-stock condition only. A “restomod” job is defined as a vehicle that has been put back together with the addition of new modern or aftermarket parts that were not on the vehicle when it came from the factory. This makes a “restomod” a car with a combination of both factory original parts and some new parts designed to improve the performance or appearance of a vehicle, like putting a modern engine in it to make it more drivable, or painting a car in a new color that the original factory did not offer at the time of manufacture. A car falls into the “restoration” category when it is restored back to the exact original specifications it had when it left the factory assembly line. CJ Pony Parts: A restomod combines the classic styling of old school vehicles with new technology. Rather than using all stock components, restomods use aftermarket parts to improve upon the performance and appearance of older vehicles. Restomods are becoming increasingly popular, with many builds stealing the show at SEMA and other car events. WHAT DOES RESTOMOD MEAN? As the name implies, restomod is a combination of “restoration” and “modification.” Restoration requires using all original parts to restore a car back to factory specs. Restomods are restorations that also use aftermarket parts not available from the factory. Many restomod parts fit like stock but provide more capability, performance, and comfort. Super Chevy Magazine: Now, before all those upgrades took place, the body was restored (remember that word) to appear in like-new condition, which is where we get the term "resto," short for "restored." Once the car takes on parts to improve its performance, handling, and safety, the car has now been "modified." With the car now being restored and modified, it is then referred to as a "restomod." My own belief is that it gets down to the vehicle itself and what it rolled off the assembly line with. If you deviate from that it is not a restoration. You've modified the vehicle.

That's the kind of info I was looking for. But that was a generic question, and not anything I am going to use on Big Blue - at least right now. For BB I'll run the Eddy as set and certainly the ignition as Scotty dialed it in.

Frank - I don't have an extra, but looking at the page on that (Documentation/Exterior/Spare Tire Carriers) there are three different lengths: 195 mm, 230 mm, and 265 mm. Make sure you get one that is long enough for your tire size.

Thanks, Frank. Yes, it is a special feeling.

You remove the nut and that does give you access to the eccentric. But in my experience if they've been on a while you have to drive them off. To remove the pivot bushings I used a piece of 1/2" all-thread and something that just fit and pulled them out that way. IOW, I made a puller.

George - Yes, a nice tight cab is a wonder, and gauges you can see at night are a huge blessing. Makes a truck feel solid. Dave - I feel for you on that "someone forgot to tighten the shocks". Been there, done similarly very very recently. Bill - How much interaction is there between AFR and ignition timing? IOW, you mentioned spark knock due to being too lean, but you can get there with timing as well. So is it better to be a bit more rich so you can have more advance? Or? Dane - These trucks can do amazing things with the right setup. Glad you are getting to use yours.

Thanks, guys! The onion is getting much smaller, that's for sure. If I get the seat bolted in and the power steering leak fixed and that system bled tomorrow I might get to drive him around the neighborhood. But I dare not go very far as I know the alignment is way off.

I hope it is something easy. And something obvious. But first I have to find the M10 bolts with which to properly install the seats.

That's a LOT of GOOD work! Well done, Cory! And the reinforcements look substantial.

There's no belt, so it is leaking with no pressure on the system. Why were you asking about the cooler? Think it might have rusted through?

Mine is a 3-wire, but I don't remember for sure if it is the Ford unit or the Chrysler that Bill suggested.

Ok, now all cylinders are firing and things are starting to come together. There are some noises in the valve train from time to time, and the fuel pressure sometimes sits at 5 psi and sometimes goes wonky. But it isn't running rich as I can lean the idle out too much with the mixture screws, and at 500 RPM (on the tach, but it may be a bit higher) it pulls 16" of vacuum. I talked to Steve/FoxFord33 this morning at church and he said Wednesday would be a good day to bring it in for alignment. So I need to get the seat and seat belts nailed down, the power steering/hydroboost leak found and fixed and the system bled, and then try the 2nd regulator on the fuel system. And here's what the exhaust currently sounds like. But if I get it aligned on Wednesday I hope to have the exhaust system done on Thursday.

Yes, that blotch is now aluminium. Surely conducts quite well. Ain't about to scrape off. O'Reilly's didn't have the ASF42's, but they did have a new Autolite 24, so I'm going back with these + the new one. No idea on 2 & 5, but the choke wasn't off yet. Going back out to install the plugs, and will let y'all know soonest. But those heat shields complicate things a bit, so it goes rather slowly.

Yep Plugs 1 - 4: Plugs 8 - 5: And that plug #7 a bit closer:

Yep

Well, I just did steps 1 and 2, and on both the fuel pressure came up to 5 psi perfectly. I think it is still dropping a cylinder or two at idle, but didn't run it long enough to even get the choke off as I want to pull the plugs. But, I also found a oil spot on the driveway (yes it set out last night) right under the front of the engine crossmember. There's dampness on the front of the crossmember, and the fluid looks like Royal Purple, which probably means I have a leak in the connections at or around the P/S pump.

I do have two gauges installed, as shown below, and both of them are connected on the same tee as the oil pressure switch. I don't think the pressure could be dropping that much to drop out the switch. But, I guess that is possible. So here's the test I am planning on doing: Put my jumper/switch on the oil pressure switch and, with the key on, bring the pump on w/o the engine running to see what the pressure does. I assume it'll settle at 5 psi w/o bouncing, just like it did before. Then start the engine to see what the pressure is doing. I'll bet it bounces as I've done nothing that would fix it. While the engine is running, and the gauge is presumably bouncing, close the jumper/switch to short across the oil pressure switch. If that is the problem the gauge should stabilize. I'm betting that shorting across the oil pressure switch does nothing. I'm guessing that the issue is that when the float closes the pressure spikes because the regulator can't react quickly enough. And I'll bet the float is chattering. If that is the case then maybe the deadhead regulator will fix that?

Gary, your venture here is going much like mine did. Recall my bad "New" pickup coil, too much fuel pressure with new fuel pump, etc. I had to laugh when you mentioned checking the firing order for the 10th time. I also pulled the distributor a half dozen times as well. Very frustrating. I'm with Jim here, and I know this much, my truck ran like crap when I put a new mechanical fuel pump on. Apparently, it was too much pressure for my Edlebrock carb. But, I could smell the gas and the plugs were quickly fowled. I want to see those plugs. Is that fuel pressure gauge new? The more I think about it the more I'm coming around to what you guys are saying - that fuel pressure might be the cause of the problem. I've read many, many times that too much pressure causes a poor idle, especially on an Edelbrock. And while I was able to adjust the idle fuel mix and the RPM responded, what if with that much pressure we are sloshing fuel over into the bore? And on a seemingly regular basis? The overall RPM would probably come down with the AFR change due to the mixture screws, but the slosh would cause it to miss at other times. So, maybe that needs to be my first priority this afternoon. The gauge itself isn't new, but the regulator is. That gauge was on the dead-head regulator I had on the truck before, so I moved it over to this return-style regulator. But I'll need to move it back when I put the dead-head regulator in after the return-style.

George - Isn't it amazing how much better a vehicle "feels" when you get a good exhaust system on it? And the painted gauge needles make a huge difference as well. You are going to be soooooo happy! John - Glad you got the clip off and the odo reset. But the lights will make the biggest difference of all. Amazing how much difference the relay harness makes.

And, by the way, I've added that to these pages: Documentation/Electrical/Switches Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems

I think this is the one: E0AZ 9278-A or Motorcraft SW-1592.

Jim - I agree the fuel problem needs to be solved, although I'm doubting that the bouncing pressure is causing what seems to be a very regular miss. But I think the extra pressure regulator might be the trick. Bill - I think I'm using the Ford switch and it does control the relay. And thanks for the plug #.

You are on a slippery slope. One thing leads to another and you'll have a "transformed" vehicle.