Gary Lewis

Maybe in the future have it set up so that if you enter a vehicle then you must also vote in every class? Maybe that was in the instructions and I missed it anyway... You know, if you don't vote, then you also cannot win. Isn't there a saying like that about politics...if you don't vote then you don't get to complain about the outcome?...lol. On the Nabble poll I can't tell who has voted. So I couldn't enforce that rule. However, if we do a virtual show again I don't want to use the Nabble poll. There are several issues with it, including that once I post the poll I can't change any of the entrants. Can't add, delete, change spelling, etc. So everything was done from about 8:30 to 10:30 last Wednesday in a huge flurry of work, entering 52 names 6 different times and reading them to Janey to ensure they were right. Instead, if we do this again I hope to use a poll app and embed the poll on the website. That way I wouldn't have the time crunch of having to do everything at the last minute, and there might be more tools with which to manage it. As for the number of people who have voted, I wonder if it is like eBay and they'll come on at the last minute?

I havent driven it but to the end of the drive, down the street 100 yards, back into the yard and back to the barn. That's good since you said you didn't torque the upper ball joint nuts down.

That trick would have been nice to know many years ago. I went to see Dad and the rear bumper on his truck was twisted. We never did figure out a way to fix it. As for the tool, that looks like something Jack The Ripper would use! Does it pry on the trim or the retainer?

Looks good, Ray! How does it drive?

Today was such a beautiful day! It started out in the 50's and got to maybe 75. I was reminded of the Saturdays back in High School or college when I'd spend most of the day washing, waxing, and what is now called "detailing" my ride. (And it would have been a superb day for a truck show!) So I decided to back Big Blue out of the shop and work on him outside today. First up was adding sound deadening material to the inner roof panel. Basically I put up a 20" x 24" piece in the recess on both sides. I cleaned the panel with brake cleaner and then applied the deadener and rolled it out, and then when the sun had heated it up for a while I rolled it out again. It is on there! And it should make quite a difference. Then it was time to add the extra weatherstripping to the tops of the doors. The passenger's door had a piece, although it wasn't in good shape, but the driver's door didn't have any and it didn't look like it had ever had any. As there has frequently been questions about where the piece goes, I took pics of the top and bottom end positions before removing the existing piece, and included those below. After removing the existing piece I was left with goo on the door, so out came the Goo Gone and after a lot of work I got it all off. Then I cleaned the doors with isopropyl alcohol to ensure the adhesive would stick, and put the piece on the passenger's door - and the bottom end didn't stick. So out came the remnants of the 3M spray adhesive and I sprayed the bottom end of that strip as well as the door, and the whole run of door on the driver's side as well as the whole piece of weatherstrip. And that did the trick - both pieces are "on". But, if I were doing it again I'd use adhesive on the whole piece and not rely on the vendor's tape. Anyway, here's what the driver's side piece looks like: About that time I realized that I was right by the trailer where the winch was mounted, so I moved the winch to Big Blue and wired it up. However, it isn't quite complete as the hitch receiver that bolts under the winch was starting to rust pretty badly. Turns out that when you bolt an unpainted piece of flat steel to the bottom of a flat bumper it traps water between them and rust ensues. So I did a quick pass in the blast cabinet to clean it off and then hit it with two coats of POR-15 and topcoated that with Rustoleum's flat black. Should be dry tomorrow and I can install it and call the winch DONE! Oh yes, here are pics the two ends of the factory extra weatherstripping, as promised:

That's ingenious! How well did it work?

I think enjoying it is a good idea. That's where I am with Big Blue, and it is feeling good. Yes, I have a lot of things left that need doing, but they are mostly one-day efforts or, as today, several in a day. So that's my vote - enjoy it. Restoration can come later, and by then you'll probably know more about what you want the truck restored "to".

Andre - I think your question of "What is wise" is perhaps posed to the wrong people. By definition all who enter here have a problem, and asking us for "wisdom" isn't wise. Ok, let me get real, if not serious. The question back to you is what you want to do with the truck? Do you want it to be serviceable for many years? Are you wanting it to be less of a pig for fuel? (Notice that I didn't ask if you want it to be economical, as that's not going to happen. ) In my case I'm in the latter part of my wrenching days and I'm building vehicles that my offspring, who are not mechanics, can have maintained. So both of my trucks are intended to have Ford's EEC-V EFI system with OBD-II ports. And when you plug in a scanner you will be told it is a 1996 truck, and the EEC will tell you what's ailing it. But that is an expensive way to go.

Thanks, Jonathan. But the guy and called and I both scrolled back to the top on our iPhone X's and didn't see the yellow although we were looking for it. Yes, to say the least I'm disappointed. It was a LOT of work for everyone to create their entry and for me to put it up. And this "turnout" isn't encouraging.

Congrat's!!!!!! That is SUCH a GOOD feeling!!!

Your new meter has confirmed my suspicions - the other meter is SENSITIVE! So I think you are ready for Scott's "next step".

I checked and with an iPhone X and using Safari I didn't get the yellow banner saying my vote was counted. But I closed that page and opened it again and the radio button where I voted was still pushed, so it was counted and remembered. VOTE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill - Thanks a bunch! ID # E8TE 9C675-BA cross ref's to PN E8TZ 9A624-B. So I'll be on the hunt for that - after confirming I don't have one.

Basically what I think that is saying is that terminal 4 has neither power nor ground on it and is floating. So the meter is searching for ANY voltage on it and keeps turning down the scale until it finds something. Do you have a test light? Or a 12v bulb you can wire from terminal 4 to ground? If it doesn't come on, and I'm sure it won't, then check terminal 4 with your meter. It should show 0 volts.

Bill - I don't think I have that piece of ducting. Guess I need to find one.

Ok, results turned on. Go look!

I think it varies by device and browser. I got a call last evening from someone that couldn't see that he had voted, and no matter what we did it wouldn't show him the yellow "you voted" bar. Ok, I'm going to turn those options on .....

Yes, you are correct - assuming your choke is set up properly.

Some folks are having problems telling if they've voted. I think I should turn on one or both of these viewing options immediately. Thoughts? Allow viewing results before vote Allow viewing results before end date (poll creators can always view the results) That would let you know that you have voted.

I don't think Ford ever offered a true dual-snorkel for the 460. What they had was a trap door on the back of the housing that opened when the vacuum got down to a certain point. It got more air to the engine, but it was HOT air. I doubt I need dual snorkels. And when I go EFI I'll be running factory '95 ducting with a single duct over to the filter box on the driver's fender. What I'd like to do is figure out how to duct cold air to that. But this engine hasn't been dyno'd. Dad's engine was but w/o a filter IIRC. However, Scotty has dyno'd this combination and said it'll turn out 360 - 370 HP, but I don't know if a filter was used in that test either.

Please vote for the October 2020 Truck Of The Month! Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: Brian/Dee's Bullnose: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: George & Nick's Brutus: Jacob's 84 in it’s natural habitat: Windbane's 86 F150 plow truck, almost ready for snow: And Dave/FuzzFace2's 81 F100 "Custom" flare side:

Our off road race team "Nuts Racing" we had a broken part trophy, it was made from the part that was broken when racing. The transfer case adaptor was a big one of some of the members till they got the suspension & drive shafts figured out. The other was a Ring & Pinion. They do look good Dave ---- Well, they look classy, but they are inexpensive. However, those that have gotten them in the past, and that doesn't include me, seem to like them. But that is a cool idea about broken parts and ugly trophies!

Dave - Thanks! As for the air cleaner, at this point it certainly IS more trouble than it is worth to have dual snorkels. However, to your question about hot air, the factory ducting takes care of that pretty nicely. Just turn the stuff for the passenger's side up side down and it works on the drivers side. However, that's not true of the piece that connects to the radiator support. It needs to be cut in half and the back side flipped and re-glued. As for the oil fill, that's not a problem as I don't expect to be doing that very often with a brand new engine. But pulling the air cleaner to get to the fill isn't hard at all. But since the goal is to go EFI, I think I'll enjoy the truck with the single snorkel unit on it for a while and use the time it would have taken to create a workable twin-snorkel air cleaner on installing the other upgrades still waiting in the wings, like: Installing the new u-joints in the front drive shaft and installing the shaft - after I fix the leak in the front output shaft on the t-case Painting all the interior trim and installing it as well as the Highliner head liner and CB unit Installing the 3000 watt inverter Installing the on-board compressed air system And then, when all of that is done, go for the EFI.

Andre - That is EXCELLENT! Well done! However, it would be nice to see those pics up closer. Are the picture file sizes so big you had to pic "Big" or something like that to get them uploaded? I can help you with that if you'd like. On the tranny, as Dave asked, do you want a manual or an auto? There were only two autos used in the Bullnose years, but later the E4OD was introduced. Here's some info on them: C6: This tranny is legendary. It was used behind the 460 and the diesel, and seems indestructible. However, it is poor on economy for at least two reasons - it has no overdrive and the torque converter is always slipping. AOD: This tranny was used on the smaller engines, but never on the 351W in the trucks. My guess is that it wasn't thought to be strong enough, but many people have used them behind the bigger engine and it will work if you take care. Or, if you have one built they can put stronger parts in them to stand up to a lot more power. The AOD was a nice design for the time as it has an overdrive gear and it bypasses the torque converter in overdrive. And it requires no electronics to run it. E4OD: This was the next evolution of automatic transmissions and came out in later trucks. It has both an overdrive and a lock-up torque converter. And, properly built, it'll stand up to plenty of power. But, it has two issues - first, it requires an electronic controller and those start at ~$750. Second, they are a whole lot longer than a C6, maybe 7", and you will have to shorten the rear drive shaft and lengthen the front one. Hope that helps. If you are interested in a manual we can discuss that as well as there are several options there.

I may be able to help, but need a bit more info. Do you mean "gauges" instead of "gauge"? If so, then you need to wire it as shown below. Those schematics are from here: Documentation/Electrical/1985 EVTM. I chose that one instead of the 1986 EVTM because you said that your wiring is from the 70's. In 1986 Ford changed the wire colors ever so slightly by dropping the hash marks and dash marks, but one thing Ford was good about - they didn't change the basic wire colors over the decades. However, one thing that did change through the Bullnose years is the fuel system wiring. So as you get into this you will need to confirm how your fuel system is set up. The one shown in the top schematic is the simple one and the one I think your truck will have. But we may need to discuss that.