Gary Lewis

If you mean these two brackets then I agree with you:

Well, that's interesting. I hadn't tried my iPhone X, but have now on Safari: Portrait: I can't see more than #27 Landscape: I can only see #44 Ok, there are problems. So use the list on the page here: Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show and on the Entrants tab.

Looks great, George! Well done.

You can upload files here, and I assume you can upload those but haven't tried. And my intent is for this site to be here forever. Maybe we need to have a place to put them?

What browser are you using, Jonathan? How about the rest of you? Can you see all 52 entries?

Ok guys, someone is going to have to 'splain this to others, but that statement reminds me of what a friend once told me: "I'm waiting with bait on my breath to see....." Anyway, it is aligned. At least I got the eccentrics out, set according to the chart, and re-installed. I'll have to wait for a week to get it checked as Steve/FoxFord33 is the alignment guru and I want him to check it. I've re-included the instructions again, but before we get to them let me explain how I got them out. First, I should have used anti-seize on them when I installed them originally. So to get them loose I soaked them in PB Blaster overnight. Then, with everything having been banged with a hammer multiple times I took a very small chisel and started tapping it into the gap between the ears and the knuckle. And quickly broke off two of the smaller ones. But using the larger ones I was able to slowly get the eccentrics to come up to a point I could get a thicker/bigger chisel in. Then pretty soon I used a pry bar and tapped on it - gently. However, when I got it up to about the point where the top of the eccentric was even with the Cotter key slot in the stem of the ball joint it didn't want to come out any farther. It seemed like the wheel was pulling the ball joint outward hard enough to keep the eccentric captured. So I let the lift down and put just a bit of weight on the wheel and the eccentric came out easily. Then I lubed the goody out of them with anti-seize and then set them to the desired setting. So let's discuss the right setting and use the right side as the subject. It was at +.4 degree for camber and the target is 0 degrees, so the correct setting was -.4 degree. But the eccentric chart only goes in .25 degree increments so I used the -.5 degrees column. And the caster was at 3.7 degrees and the target is 3.4 degrees, so the correct setting was -.3 degrees. So go down the -.5 degree column and you'll see that for the right side it intersects with the -.25 degree row at OP/YZ. (The left side is at what should be LC on the chart but is actually PM - as discussed previously.) Ok, so how do I use that info? The instructions say to align the upper letters, the OP, with the slot of the outer bushing. And then set the outer bushing so the YZ is "lined up with the flat or outside tab of the knuckle." And I think this is what that looks like:

Nice Bronco. And I was tempted. But Matthew 16:23 came to mind and, right then, FB did a refresh and that truck didn't come back up. I took that as a blessing. Anyway, glad you found your colors!

So you are asking if the Cold Weather Modulator can be eliminated. The answer is yes. Go back to the link above and read the Note on Page 66, and the "check valve" of which they speak is the CWM. Many of the air cleaners didn't have them.

Is there a question in there? I haven't figured out if I answered your question(s) or if there's more to answer.

Love the Bronco. And, as you'll soon see, we are not strict at all about the years or even the brands of the vehicles we post about. I have a Super Bee that's been mentioned. Bill/85lebaront2 has - a LeBaron T2, oddly enough, and he posts about it - when he ever does any work on it. And I have it on good authority that we'll see a '91 Wagoneer on here soon. So, please post about your Bronco. Start a thread and track its restoration.

Well done, Frank! We will have to remember that one.

Barry - I'm not sure I fully understand what you are saying and asking. But let me take a stab at an answer. One snorkel is plenty enough for hot air as you shouldn't be using lots of throttle or air on a cold engine. So my plan is to seal the hot air opening on the driver's side snorkel and not have a flapper valve nor vacuum motor there. But that will require modifying the snorkel to cleanly close the vacuum motor's hole off, so I might put a dummy vacuum motor there. As for the thermal sensor, aka "thermostat", you can find the part numbers here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. Also, it looks to me like turning the cold air ducting upside down allows it to almost fit on the other side. On Big Blue the factory ducting is on the passenger's side so I'll turn the piece that goes to the radiator support upside down. But it doesn't quite work so I think I'm going to have to cut that piece in two and glue it back together. Hope that answers some of the questions.

A better man than I. My artistry is limited to drawing stick figures, and even then they aren't easily recognized.

I understand. And I really hate having dumped big bucks into the first pass on both Dad's engine and bodywork. But had I done the bodywork I'd still be working on it. I think I've come to the conclusion that for things like bodywork where there is an art to doing it I'll pay an artist to do it. That leaves me to do the one-off things that you'd be really hard pressed to find someone to do, like integrate a '95 wiring scheme into an '85 truck so you can go with the EEC-V EFI. Or add the 90's fuel system but step the pressure down to accommodate a carb for the interim. And then there's the Saginaw P/C pump with a hydroboost brake system and a '95 master cylinder. And adding a '95 D60 front axle with a Sky RSK. If you found someone to do those things it would cost 10 times as much as doing them yourself, and even then you'd be involved on a very frequent basis as the questions came up. But it gets down to what we want to do and what we are capable of doing. I'm more of an engineer than an artist, so I'm learning to stay away from things that take an artist's touch.

That is really COOL! I loved the video! Welcome TEACH! You are going to fit right in, and you are going to teach us as well.

Maybe this view will make it easier to see the differences. I've cropped the other stuff out of the pic and rotated it so the stays are on the correct sides. And you can see that the one on the left has holes that will angle it. And the one on the right doesn't. And in these pics you can see the difference.

Gary, the menu only lists entrants up to #34. To see the rest you have to open the tab... Jonathan - Apparently you hadn't refreshed your browser. I just scrolled down to #51. How do I know it is a refresh problem? Because I have that problem all the time as I'm adding these pages.

Yes. The specs for the D44 TTB, sorry. I should be more specific. What does "screen of the machine" mean? The alignment specs are on this page: Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Alignment.

You are now on the map. And, what do you teach?

Keys! That reminds me the battery on the one for Blue is low. Anyway, first impressions on the Flex? Is it what you were looking for?

Welcome, Kevin/Teach! Glad you joined. Before going farther, let me tell you that we are in the middle of a virtual truck show. You can read about it at Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show in the menu. And you can see links to all of the 51 entries on the Entries tab of that page. The last time for entries has come and gone, but for you I'll make a special offer - get your entry in by 5:00 CDT today and I'll get you in. (I'll be working the entries fervently tonight and can't change them to add one later.) There's nothing special required, just words and pictures if you'd like. As for Minnesnowta, what part? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and we can add you if we have a town or zip. Welcome!

John - You are explaining exactly why I went pro from the start. (Actually, the first guy wasn't a pro but he said he was.) While I had planned to do everything myself, including the bodywork, I came to the realization that I didn't know enough to do that. I'm sorry you had that experience, but it looks like you have it sorted nicely. Well done!

Is that what you need? Anything else?

I can do that. But how 'bout this one?

Good point, Jim. Any tips on getting the eccentrics loose? I've banged on the knuckle, put the nut on the ball joint and banged on it, and even tried to pry it up by driving a chisel under one of the tabs - but broke the tab off.