Gary Lewis

You are making progress, and as Jim says, progress is GOOD! Speaking of Jim, I've not heard from him in several days. Have you?

I'm pretty sure a seat from a Supercab isn't going to be a good fit in a regular cab. Even the guy on the SeatShop video said they are quite different. That's not to say it can't be done. It is just a question of how much work you want to do.

Excellent! That's a great find. Will you run that Sag pump? You are aware U-Tech Center has them for $55 delivered? Or, contact me for a better deal.

I got lost. Does your ambulance have a regular cab, Supercab, or Crewcab floor? The regular and crew cabs have the same front floor pan. The Supercabs and Broncos share a different one. At least up into the mid-90's, although I don't know how long Ford carried that distinction. So if the 2001 seats aren't too expensive you can try. But I wouldn't tie in at any point other than where the factory did as that's where the floors I've seen are reinforced.

I can see how the engine stopping with all that gearing would cause a pretty quick stop. And, I can see the right rear wanting to come up then. But is really did in the video! Is it time for EFI? Those guys, pretty much all of them, know what they are doing with those Jeeps. I could learn a lot from them. But, I don't think that's the kind of stuff I want to get into. Janey is good for 1's and 2's, but I'll have to find someone else to do 3's. And I'll have to learn a lot to do 4's. I'll be happy to take BB on some overlanding trips where his capabilities are overkill. But at least we ought to be able to make the trip w/o serious breakage. And I don't like breaking what I've built.

There's got to be a bunch of those trucks in CA not able to pass emissions, and not rusting due to the climate. Just ripe for building up.

Yep, it is shown in lots of CA-spec parts lists.

They are for the little Bronco and Ranger.

I wouldn't use two gaskets. I think they were just being kind giving you two. But I would use sealer. I use a THIN skim of RTV on both sides.

Got the rear view mirror tab glued on this afternoon, and now have the truck positioned and the garage door marked to adjust the headlights after church tonight. David - The tire pressures are on my to-do list for tomorrow, but thanks for reminding me. John - We've not been before either, but we've heard good things about it. And while we'll split one of the chicken fried steaks, the quitter's box looks like a given.

No, if you used #18 or larger wire it won't have any impact on the reading. So, I take it grounding the wire made the gauge go full scale so your wiring is good. Good luck on testing the sender. You could put it in a pan of water and bring it up to a boil, at which point it should be down to about 10 ohms.

That's the vent to the rear axle. The hose gets hard and breaks. Get a new hose and run it up to where that one stops. There should be a clip and a little "button" that keeps varmints out. Re-use them.

Yes, it was excellent work. Lots of people did a lot of work. I was impressed. And, by the way, the trophies and certificates are on their way to the winners.

Easy. Pull the wire off the sender and ground it. With the key on the gauge should go to the top of the range. If that works then put a DVM on the sender. Cold it should read ~72 ohms and with the engine hotter than it is supposed to be then it should read ~10 ohms. However, I've not had good luck testing the temp sending units with a DVM. Those I've tested didn't read how they are supposed to read.

Just back from the alignment shop. Here's the before-adjustment pic showing that I dialed in the camber and caster very close with the eccentrics, but that changed the toe-in. And then Steve/FoxFord33 did his magic:

Interesting. Didn't know it even existed and there are two sources for it. But glad to know that it works.

Well, I ordered a MeterMatch today. Should be in on Friday and I may install it on Saturday. Talked to Brian, the guy at TechnoVersions and it should be the bee's knees for Bricknose senders and Bullnose gauges.

Thanks, John. But for now I'm just going to pick some stuff up locally. Need to get the mirror on for our trek on Friday to Kendall's in Noble. Been there? And I'll have to try some of that glass cleaner! But just plain old Windex will make things a whole lot better than they are now.

Wow! That's serious stuff! I didn't see anything I thought Big Blue could handle, and some of that was just downright awesome to see a vehicle come through, like the V-Notch. That blue Jeep, and the green one as well, are serious machines. And the drivers know how to handle them. But the older Jeeps seem to be quite nimble. And some sound like they are running the original 4-bangers. Are some of the serious ones autos? Your Bronco did well. But you had a rather hard stop at 4:25. Did you bang up that new slider?

I used The Right Stuff to seal the pipes on Big Blue. It expands a bit, but not like the spray foam, and gives a flexible gasket.

I think I've found what I like most.

There are several "underhood harnesses". Each engine has a different harness because of where the sending units are. And then there is the difference in ignition systems, fuel systems, etc. I guess I've lost track of what you are trying to do. Can you help me?

Thanks, David. Didn't get much more done on Big Blue today, just a few very small things. I put the floor mats in after I washed them a few days ago, and put the cover on the winch. However, I don't like the way I have the cover secured so need to find a better approach. And I lubed the front u-joint on the front shaft after I got it installed as you'd better not lube it until the caps are captive. I checked the coolant in the radiator, which was full, then added a bit to the reservoir. And added windshield washer fluid to that reservoir as well. Checked the engine oil level and it is sitting right on Full, having not used any in the first 150 miles. The power steering fluid is right on Full as well, but I changed out its diaper as it is still leaking. And the brake fluid is up to snuff, as you can easily see through the clear reservoir. And the clutch fluid is right where it should be. Speaking of the power steering system, the new pump isn't due in until Thursday, so that'll be too late to install for Friday. And the Meter Match won't be in until Friday, so we'll go with the current setup on the gauges. Maybe I ought to make a note to stick to the dash about the readings I mentioned earlier. Tomorrow I take BB in to have the alignment checked, and then need to stop and get some rear view mirror glue. (Yes, I know that the pros have some better stuff, but we don't have a glass shop in town, and I'd like a mirror for Friday.) And then I'll leave the truck out until after church and go out and adjust the headlights after dark. In the interim I need to check tire pressures and wash the windows. Road Trip!

I don't have a pic of one installed as they are behind the instrument bezel. But here's where it goes:

Before buying a regulator I'd call Edelbrock's tech support and tell them what carb and pump you have and see if they think it can be too much pressure. They may say I'm all wet, in which case don't spend the money.