Gary Lewis

Will do.

Folks, please thank Ray Cecil. He's been a member on here for 2 1/2 years, and for much of that time he's been an administrator. But today he let me know that life has gotten too busy for him to continue as an admin, so is stepping down. Ray - I thank you, personally, for your service. And I hope things settle down for you, soon.

Bill - Thanks, but I'm reluctant to cut up good trim pieces. And if it comes to that I have an extra blue one, although I appear to be short the two I need for Dad's truck, so was planning to paint the blue one red when the time comes. Anyway, let's wait to see what others come up with. Maybe someone has a broken one that would work. Thanks again!

What little I know about CA emissions would fit in a thimble. But I've heard that there are areas where you might not have to be tested. I don't know if that's true or not, but if I were you I'd check locally. The problem I see with the early systems, like EEC-III, is that they weren't very smart. And they didn't have a nice interface like OBD-II. But, you can pull codes on what you have. On the link Bill/85lebaront2 sent, go to the EEC-III tab and then the Pulling Codes tab.

You take the trailer and I'll take the Bronco. Road trip to CA?

I did send it and it shows to be well on its way, with the anticipate delivery by 8 PM Thursday.

Scott - You won't like it. But I do! So please don't help him getting it running 'cause he might sell it cheaply.

Must be for the CC's. At least I've not seen it on regular cabs. The metal is pretty flimsy up there.

Welcome! Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be glad to add you if we had a city or zip.

Assuming that you are going to do as I asked and go read the guidelines and then introduce yourself, I'm going to work on a response re your problem. But before getting into the problem, let me ask if you live where the emissions system needs to remain operative? You've already sunk a lot of money into replacing parts, so I doubt you want to remove them. But you could change to a much less complicated system like the DS-II. Assuming you don't want to do that, I'm going to suggest that you read the 1982 Engine Emissions Diagnosis brochure, and more specifically the Ignition section. It may help as I don't think many of us have much experience with the EEC-III system. And the diagnostics for non-starting seem to begin at Page 5-28. But those are really detailed tests. You've already said that the only spark you get is when you turn the key off. And I think you've hit the nail on the head - you get that because you remove power from the ignition module, and that means it quits grounding the coil and that creates a spark. So something is causing the ECU to not signal the ignition module to spark. I've not spent enough time reading that document so I don't know which tests to recommend. But wanted to get this to you ASAP and let you start reading. And maybe someone that knows more about this than I do will come along.

Welcome! But somehow our joining process is broken as it was supposed to take you directly to the New Members Start Here folder for your first post. And the reason for that is that it also contains our guidelines, and we want to make sure that you've had a chance to see them as we will hold you to them. So, please assure me you've read them. And, do me a favor and go to the New Members Start Here folder and introduce yourself. There's a link to that in the email I sent you. Thanks in advance.

Folks - Angelo is having problems on the forum. He posted this: Are you folks having similar problems? Please let me know your experiences ASAP.

The oil pan was a bit of a pain but we got it. I'm on an Android, Galaxy S9+. On the mobile site, seems to be pretty recent but it won't show any replies and everything has to be individually clicked on to be read. It makes threads like this a nightmare to read. Angelo - Thanks. I'm going to ask others about their experiences. Hope there's nothing broken.

But thanks anyway, Angelo. I appreciate the offer.

I have a matching pair of black ones I was supposed to sell a while back and never did. Nothing wrong with them I don't believe other than one might be slightly warped, I'd have to dig them out. No! Sell them! I have an extra blue one I can cut up, but I just hate to do that since there are just so many of them in existence. Was hoping someone has a broken one.

Looks so very good, Angelo! Sorry about the goofy load on mobile devices. Hadn't heard that. What device?

Does anyone have a broken A-pillar trim piece? I'm looking for a good way to put a grab handle on the A-pillar, as discussed in Big Blue's Transformation, and I'd like to cut a piece of trim in two just above the middle screw hole in order to see how much metal I can get in there. So I'd like a piece of trim to play with. Happy to pay shipping. But it would keep the shipping down if we were only shipping a portion of the trim piece. However, I'd like to have that middle hole part so I can be sure I know where it goes on the truck.

Yes, the connections in back are a bear! Been there, done that, and have the scars to prove it. But I'll bet you will get it done nicely.

Well done, Christian!

Should be very helpful for you'se guys in the far north. Let us know how it works, please.

Did a bit more looking at the A-pillar grab handle idea. Found this piece of aluminum that sorta fits. (No, I'm not thinking about using aluminium.) It looks to me like nose in front might clear the trim piece, and I think the toe in the rear would since I can see from the other side where the trim stops in relationship to the cab and windshield. And if that's the case then a steel wedge could be shaped to just fit in that space. Then the idea is to drill that piece at roughly the same angle as the screw, which is the one that holds the trim on at that point. Then I'd tap it, run a stud in, and either Loctite the stud in place or tack weld it on the back side. Then there's the question as to how to keep it in place. And several thoughts come to mind: Welding: Is it too close to the windshield to weld it? This is probably a WelderScott kind of question. Adhesive: Maybe the structural adhesive used for body panels? JB Weld? Other? Fasteners: If it was long enough there could be several countersunk sheetmetal screws. Or, if there's room in the pillar use nutserts? Last, in order to figure out how much room there is in there I think I need to dissect an A-pillar trim piece. I have a spare blue driver's side one, but I really don't want to cut it up. Anyone have a broken one I could use? I'm going to "advertise" for one in the main section but thought I'd ask here as well.

I was just reviewing this thread and noticed a smiling Janey! Yep, that's her! I outkicked my coverage, didn't I?

Called twice and didn't get anyone so sent this email. We shall see:

Moved. (W/o asking. ) Yes, height at armrest. Discount? I'll ask...............

I hope it is ok to have moved the console discussion out. It was taking over your thread. But, it is your thread and I should have asked before I did it. Sorry. Meanwhile you posted about harvesting the rear diff, so I moved it back here. OK?