Gary Lewis

Don’t worry, you are probably better off with new hoses. And you will have a completely new system. 👍

Shaun - I've never tried hammering a socket on a broken bolt. Cool! George - Sorry about the letter and the boo boo. But at least Brutus is on the road.

Since so many companies (and people) call them "Stepsides", I'd argue that it's not even a mistake, that it was on purpose (I mean in the LMC catalog). The Mar-K catalog is the only one that actually indicates both terms...they will call it a Stepside, and then in brackets say "Stepside is the same as Flareside" lol. In a way, it's similar to what we call the starter solenoid (fender mounted). Some people will say that it is not a "solenoid", it is the Starter Relay. That's all well and good, but everybody still calls it the starter solenoid, as do all of the aftermarket companies that make them. The term Flareside has grown on me the last few years, but it still takes some concentration to use it around others. Stepside and Flareside are copyrighted terms, so it is technically wrong to call one by the other term. In fact, there probably should be the little "c" in a circle beside them in all advertising. Keith Dickson is well aware of this and is doing his best to correct all of LMC's advertising.

I don't know, Jonathan. Sorry.

Chris - The fact that the bolts had the grease on the is probably why you got them out without twisting them off. They frequently rust and seize if not thoroughly lubed. I have always used anti-seize all over them, and that works, but Jim recently introduced me to Loctite PST, which is good for preventing seizing. As for getting the pump off, I’ve had to whack them with a mallet. And getting hoses off usually requires slipping a small screwdriver under it and prying up. Work all the way around, breaking the tension.

Cool! Tell us more about it and your plans for it?

Good job! Posted well. Email me what you want for the , please.

Well done, Christian!!!! That looks very good. And you have two tanks. Cool!

I'd like to see some pics of that cover. Curious what a real craftsman can do.

That's cool, Matthew! And it's made it back.

Welcome! Glad the site is helping. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or zip.

That is a bummer! Do you have the two-piece cable with the speed control transducer in between? If so, might one of those cables be bad? How 'bout the transducer? The speedometer itself?

All of the aftermarket retailers call them Stepsides...as does 90% of the general population...lol. I always argue that the term "Stepside" became the Generic Trademark name of all brands (Chevrolet, Ford, Dodge, Jeep, International, etc). To be honest, I didn't even know they were called Flaresides until just a few years ago. The only trucks I knew as Flaresides were the ones that Ford RE-introduced in 1992 that actually said Flareside on the fender. So I now use both terms. I depends on who I am talking to. LMC's knew "Mr Ford", Keith Dickson, is on a mission to correct their catalogs. No more "step side"!

Jonathan - PLEASE take lots of time. As you know, I'm taking some time off, and even when I get back to it I won't be in any hurry. You have more important things to do!

Sure, please shoot me a pic or two! On posting pics, have you tried the “big” button?

Thanks, Rob. Seam sealer has done perfectly on the knob. Not sure how easily it’ll come off, but it sure is staying on. 👍

Gary, arrived safe and sound a couple days ago. Thank you to those that voted and thank you Gary for just being awesome in general. I’ll be using the LMC gift card this weekend to order new cab and core support mounts for my ‘80 4x4 project. Hope to be putting the cab back on the frame in a couple weeks. Excellent! Congrat’s!!!

Pretty!

Now that Big Blue is drivable I'm going to take it easy for a while before diving into the power steering/hydroboost system to fix the leaks. So I've been cleaning up the shop a bit as it became a real pit during the last year while I worked on Big Blue. But today I ran across the medium-duty truck radio bezel and the switch for the OX locker at about the same time, so spent a while thinking about how I'm going to mount that switch. Harking back to this thread, OX lockers come with a Carling switch that looks like this: And I am going to put that (and five others like it for the compressor, driving lights, backup lights, battery parallel, and PTO) in the space at the top of this medium-duty radio bezel: But the question has been "how"? Today I think I found the answer in the 6-switch bracket also sold by Carling. It will pop into a rectangular cutout in that bezel, which will fit nicely in the flat spot at the top, and provide a sturdy place to mount the switches. And, looking at the space where the clock currently mounts, there are openings where I can run the wire to the switches so that they can be connected and the wire will feed back behind the dash in as I install the bezel. And for now I'll blank off the narrow window at the top. But, what I'd like to do some day is to put a readout there hooked to an Arduino and have that take the place of the aftermarket gauges.

Yes! Fuse Link T is in the wrong spot. It should be on the other side of the fender-mounted starter relay, and that should solve the problem.

Yep, I think any time you change camber or caster the toe changes. Steve had to reset the toe when I changed both camber and caster. As for the driveline, you should be able to swap out the yoke to the one that takes the double-cardan. I can look up where I got my double-cardan yoke if you'd like.

You are right, that's not right. There should only be power in Start or in Run with the oil pressure switch closed. If it was me I'd do these tests in Run but with engine off: Check the Pink/black wire at the tank selector relay. It should not have power in Run w/the engine off, and if it does you need to figure out why. Pull the fuel pump cutoff relay out and see if the power on the pink/black wire goes away. Put the relay back - does it click as you install it? Shouldn't, but if it doesn't and yet there's now power on the pink/black wire the relay may be welded shut If the relay clicks when you put it back that suggests that it isn't welded shut but is being pulled in. See that the R/Y wire to the fuel pump cutoff relay doesn't have power Does that make sense?

Just spoke to the police dispatcher. The patrolman did confirm that it was Jim to which he was speaking by seeing his ID. But, I misunderstood - apparently his phone was shut off by the carrier and he has yet to get a new one. When he does he will contact me.

I forgot the reference to a class I HATED! Diff E! Yes, one of my degrees is in that stuff, but that was 'cause Tahlequah didn't have Engineering.

Many of your answers can be answered here: Documentation/Driveline/Calculators. You'll see the E4OD and NP208 ratios. And Novak says the 229 as the same ratios as the 208. Pretty much all t-cases have 1:1 in High, but they vary a bit in Low range. (Note that Big Blue's BW1345 is the lowest of the ones listed. ) So put in your tire size (assuming you know that ) and your diff ratios and then have a play. (It comes up with Big Blue's #'s each time you refresh. Wonder why?) If you get something around 1800 to 2000 RPM in OD at 65 MPH I'd think you are good. Much lower than 17 or 1800 and you might have to shift out of OD for some hills. But that's not a deal-breaker.