Gary Lewis

Interesting. Are you saying there are three #’s: engineering; ID; and part?

They are really liking it. Very different from any place they’ve been, but lots of new things to see. And the Subie is doing well. However they just use it around town as it still uses/loses coolant if taken on the highway. But around town it seems to go for weeks without more being added.

If by "nerf bar" you mean full-length ones like shown below, then that's what I like - for Big Blue. That's because he sits tall and they are needed to help people get in. And, I can stand on them to put things in the bed or the tool box. Plus, they protect the body as they are attached to the frame. Dad's truck won't have any, and Blue has the automagic ones that drop down when you open the door. In other words, I like the "clean" look for most trucks.

That would be great! Thank you! Cool! But, if not my daughter lives in SC and might be able to get you one.

Do you have white or red LED lights when you had this issue? I had white LEDs. But I've read that there are better LEDs for the tail/stop light function that would be brighter than incandescent. Maybe I just had the wrong ones.

I think you figured out that the year doesn't matter. I explained to them that their site isn't very helpful in that respect.

Yes, you are too low. I'd use the same bit and angle it up, meaning drill from lower than your divot and aim up. Then, after you've gone in maybe 1/8", slowly bring your drill up to horizontal. But SLOWLY or you'll break your bit and then you have to fish the really hard drill bit out. That should get you close to center. Then drill in as far as you dare go before going to the next sized bit, and then only go up maybe 1/16" at a time. Are you going to use EZOuts or what? If you get really close to the center you can drill it out until you start to see the threads of the head showing, and then you can peel the bolt's metal out of the threads. But if you are using EZOuts or somesuch you can drill it out until your EZOut will fit. And that 's when you need the heat. And depending on what torch you have, you can't get that head too hot. MAP gas or propane just won't get it too hot. Heat it and then chill it with something like PB Blaster. Heat/cool. You are trying to cause the two different metals to cool differently and break the bond.

Shaun - That's bizarre! Why would the FSM and the MPC have different numbers?

Your fuel level in the carb is too high. But since you didn't do anything to make it higher I'm guessing that you got some bad fuel. I had that once and it caused a similar problem. I'd dump a can or two of cleaner in the gas tank and, if you are handy with the carb, pull it apart and clean the needle and seat. I'd use isopropyl alcohol to do that and a Q-Tip.

Pretty sure that's an E4OD as Ford certainly didn't put the AOD behind anything bigger than a 302. So a computer is required for the tranny awa the EFI'd engine.

Or, maybe this from our page at Documentation/Exterior/Spare Tire Carriers & the Bronco tab. Part numbers are on the Part Number tab, oddly enough. And if the # you need isn't on there please let me know.

Nice looking truck. But needing an engine, or at least engine work, could be a problem.

I'm interested but have some homework to do on color, size, and how it fits up. I have a seat cover and am wondering if it will be an issue. Rob - Don't have my samples yet. But once I do there's no reason for me to wait until Christmas to order. And as for the kickback, y'all keep it. I'm doing fine. But I appreciate the thought. John - Sounds good. All - Anyone else? Need a couple more to get the discount.

Nice truck! Congrat's!!!!!!

Sorry, Shaun.

Dan - I do think there are gussets that angle back, but I didn't have them and just used the original ones. Bill - I used the E4OD crossmember and gussets I got off Huck, the 1990 half-truck, on Dad's truck, and it all fit fine once I drilled the holes in the right place.

Then I'd get a 1/8" drill bit and rotate the cap until the choke just hits the bit and tighten the screws there. In other words, you want ~1/8" of gap when the engine is cold and the choke is on as a starting point. Then adjust from there to fine tune it.

Dan - My guess is that the server is slow and that it was taking a long time to go to the post. But if you click this link and and wait a bit you should be rewarded with a post where I showed the initial gap when I put the top of my gusset in the factory holes and the bottom into the holes on the crossmember that was moved back about an inch. But, in case you don't get it I'll include the pic below. So what I'm saying is that you can use your existing gussets even with the crossmember set back an inch. They'll be angled and have a bit of a gap initially, but when you torque the bolts down they'll flex to fit. Here's what one looked like before torquing: And here's a view after torquing, although it isn't a closeup:

Glad you got the vacuum sorted. Now for the choke. Where do you have the line on the housing set? As for the owner's manual, that's a good buy. And it is right, a granny tranny usually starts fine in 2nd.

Ok folks, Randy from Classic Consoles responded to me today that they'll give us a discount of 10% on orders of 5 or more. So, maybe we want to get our plans lined up for Christmas?

Dan - I used the original gussets from Big Blue in the original holes, but moved the crossmember back ~1". In this post you can see that they didn't fit perfectly when put in place, but when the bolts were torqued down they conformed nicely. Does that answer the question?

No such thing as a worthless post. You didn't know, but found out. And I'm glad you found it as the pin stripes aren't the easiest to find. Well done!

John - That looks great! In spite of the difficulties.

I thought about suggesting that we take that bit out. But it is better than nothing. So maybe we need to make notes in my MPC and then update the web page. Seem reasonable?

All - I got the transmission crossmember section done, I think. And before you ask, I cannot find gusset part numbers for the little 230, in spite of them showing in the illustrations. The MPC shows them for the B and R-series trucks with the 230, but not the F-Series. Shaun - It really is bizarre! Confusing! Hard to believe, actually, that they'd have that many different #'s. At some point it would be good to cross-ref the numbers and see which vehicles got what parts. And yes, mine seems to work fine - now that I got the u-joint in correctly.