Gary Lewis

I agree with Shaun. I think the 5.8L is speed density. Not my preference. How was the seat bolted in? I would pass unless done correctly. But the truck does look good.

I'm now creating a list of places from which to acquire a Highliner. For Christmas? Jeff's Bronco Graveyard: $275 but out of stock. However, on 10/22 I spoke with Pat there and he said that they have an order coming in about a month. So if I ordered soon it would ship from them in a month. And the price is $275 + $59.05 shipping. Classic Parts: Doesn't say if in stock, and this is the one w/o factory headliner. And it is $325 + $60 shipping. CarID: Really poor website as it doesn't give the vehicle the various ones are for but says each is vehicle-specific. Dashtop: This is the outfit that makes them, I think. $400 plus $68.08 shipping estimate. LMC: $375 plus shipping of $57.25. Says they are in stock. NPD: $375 + $30 shipping, and they are in stock More to come as I find them.....

The sunrise we saw last Friday when we left Estes Park was just like an orange coming up over the Earth. That was due to the smoke from the Cameron Peak fire, which was causing evacuations 7 miles from us. And the sunsets were extra red as well. So I don't think this compares - it is WHITE! Hard on eyes, really. But it sure will come in handy. And, speaking of light, I bought a really good LED flashlight while in Estes Park. It is rechargeable via USB so I'm hoping to put it on a behind-the-seat storage rack and have it trickle-charged when the truck is running so it is always ready.

Yipes! Oh, my goodness! That's awful! That was three days after we rented a Jeep and went over Ophir Pass. And, as the crow flies, that's only 4.3 miles from where we were. The Drive says "The 22yr old male, who was the driver of the Jeep Wrangler Sport, told Deputies he had shut off the engine, applied the emergency brake and stepped out of the vehicle to help direct a driver behind him around a tight turn. The Jeep started to roll with his 23yr old female friend in the passenger seat. He tried to jump back into the vehicle to try and steer it, but he was thrown into rocks when it left the road." The implication of "started to roll" to me is that the emergency brake came off, but is that the way you read it? Could it mean it slid over the side? Surely not. So, is it that it is so steep?

Go here: Bullnose Forum/Marketplace/For Sale, Trade, or Free To A Good Home and then click New Topic. Name it something about the power/remote control mirrors and post away. The pics will be the hardest part, as we've discussed.

Steve - I think I'll be happy with this one. As for what I did today, I did some testing on bulbs for the underhood light, as detailed here. And then I installed the light with the LED bulb:

Are on a computer or a mobile device? On a Windows machine there are several free apps to use. On an iPhone I've used Photoshop Express.

Interesting! A "printer" makes flexible packaging. I didn't know that. Anyway, you are now on the map. As for your pic, you've run afoul of the problems in posting pics on this, and many forums. The issue is that when you take a pic with a modern camera you can rotate it any which way and it'll put an orientation stamp in the picture's metadata. Then when modern devices open the pic they read the data and properly orient the pic. Not so our forum, although I hope to change that some day. So, for now you have to open it in an editing app and then save it. That usually gets it to the proper orientation. And, your file might have been over the 1 Mb upper size limit, so you made it Big or Small or somesuch. That takes detail out. So when I rotated and zoomed your pic it got fuzzy. Sorry. When you open and then save your file in the editing app tell it to save to a size smaller than the 1 Mb limit.

Good question. The LED had been shining brightly for over an hour so I touched it and found it just a bit too warm to hold my finger on. So I got the infrared thermometer and the hottest I could find was 160 degrees. Then I lit up the incandescent and after a couple of minutes I could find 280 degrees. And, there was no way I could touch it for any time at all w/o getting burned. So, there's a BIG difference in temp. Which is pretty well confirmed by the current pulled and the wattage rating. At 14 volts and .6 amps the #90 was pulling 8.4 watts, which is close to its rating of 8 watts. But the LED pulled .2 amps so it was pulling 2.8 watts, which again is close to its rating of 2.4 watts. (Maybe both were rated at a bit lower voltage?) So you might think that the LED would put out 1/3 the heat of the incandescent bulb: 8.4 divided by 2.9 = 3.0. But it also put out more light, which is a form of energy as well and that has to be subtracted from the wattage pulled. Given that, the LED has to be turning the current into maybe 1/4th or 1/5th as much heat as the #90 incandescent does?

Welcome, Curt! Glad you joined. (And glad you finally got in. That Yahoo thing is a bummer.) Where in West Michigan are you? If we had a town or zip we could put you on the map. (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.) Two Broncos!?!?!? That's not fair! I don't have any. Seriously though, we need to see pics as we are wont to say "Pics or it didn't happen." What do you do? Me, I'm retired and loving it!

Yes, I've just switched my incandescent #90 bulb to an LED. I used an LED advertised as GRV Ba15d 1076 1142 COB 1511 LED Lights for Vehicle Boat 2.5Watt Double Contact Bayonet Base With Glass Cover from Amazon. And while it is slightly longer than the #90 bulb it still fits under the lens nicely. In my typical style I've done some testing to see what the difference is. Basically I find that it is ~4x brighter than an incandescent #90. And it does that while pulling 1/3 the current - .2a vs .6a for the incandescent. How did I determine that? But using my camera as a light meter and a lab power supply that kept the voltage constant. In the pics below the incandescent bulb is on the left and the LED is on the right. And you are highly likely to say "Wait! The lighting looks to be roughly the same!" Indeed it is, which is exactly the way an automagic camera works - it exposes the image for different lengths of time and/or lens openings to achieve the same picture, regardless of the amount of light. But, when you go look at the "camera information" in the file you can see the differences. In both of the shots below the camera held the lens opening to f3.7 and the ISO setting to 1600. Plus, I kept the zoom to 4.5 mm and the over/under exposure option to 0. So, other than the shutter speed they were identical shots. To capture the image on the left, the incandescent bulb lit one, the camera held the shutter open for .6 seconds. But to get the one on the right it held it open for only .166 seconds. The amount of light is an inverse relationship with the shutter speed since all else was held equal. And .6 divided by .166 is 3.6.

Curt - Two things. First, you should introduce yourself by posting in the New Members Start Here folder. The reason for that is because we have the guidelines posted there and the hope is that you'll read them when you go there. And that's needed because we hold people to them. Second, you should write up an advert post and put it in the Marketplace and then the For Sale, Trade, Or Free To A Good Home folder. Include pics and descriptions. That's where people will go looking. But it is fine to have posted about them here.

I was taught to use a dollar bill to find the tight spots. It'll slide through most places but when you find "that spot" you'll know it and then you can adjust the lip. It is tedious as the bill doesn't like to slide sideways so you are constantly opening the door to re-position it, but it does work.

Congrat's!!!! (And another major notch in David's belt for spending someone else's money! )

Ok, I see that now. And it looks impressive. But my mantra on Big Blue has been to use standard parts that can be replaced easily in the field. Or mountain top for that matter. So I don't want to modify the mounts. Instead I want to use the factory mounts so I could buy a radiator from a parts store in a pinch to get me back on the road. I think this Champion 4-row aluminum radiator will cool quite nicely. Compared to the 3-row brass radiator that has been on the truck it should provide more cooling and, hopefully, no leaks!

Steve - This page on Speedway should take you to a search for a radiator for an '85 F250. And there's no option for C&R. In fact, all they have are the Holley Frostbite and then radiators for those demented people who want to put a Bowtie engine in a Ford. Did I miss something?

I've thought about doing what you've done. Fortunately my truck came to me with the Warn bumper as the Sky Offroad RSK obviates placing the receiver where you put it - which looks to be a very solid place by the way. So you have the best of both worlds - stock looking when you want it and a winch on either end when you need it. I like that! As for "offroading", I'm not likely to do much of that, but do want to do forest service roads and the trails in Colorado. And I can see how a winch would be very helpful on them. Just last week when taking one of the trails in Colorado I saw aspen trees that had fallen across the trail and someone had pulled off, probably with a winch.

Given the massive amount of welding required due to the way they build these things it is easy to see how they might leak. But I sure hope mine won't! As for Champion, I found them being sold by several of the vendors. And the recent reviews are "OK". So that seemed a better bet than some of the others.

That’s a cool story! Glad it made it home so easily. And, it is certainly a nice looking Bronco.

cut the transmission crossmember to get the transmission out. But he did leave me the gussets and enough of the crossmember to be able to patch it up and make it work. Guys like that don't deserve to have trucks.

Thanks. I really need to spend some time cleaning my installations up with boots and covers - before I have an accident. And yes, that Smart Isolator runs warm. Surprised me as well. Hmmmm, what about printing a guard for it? Could it press onto the little studs in front and stay?

Yipes! What winch do you have? I have a Smittybilt 12K and it doesn't pull that kind of current, although I don't remember exactly how much it does pull. I have a Warn winch bumper on the front, and a hitch receiver mounted right below the winch using the same bolts that hold the winch to the bumper. And my battery-side connector is strapped to the back end of that receiver. But, there's no fuse to the battery, although there really should be give the size of the wire as it could really melt down with a direct short. I have an aux battery on the driver's side, and the winch wires wend their way up from the receiver to that battery. The winch plugs into that cable when mounted in the bumper, or if the winch is mounted on the trailer and the trailer is hitched to the front of the truck I put the 10' welding cable jumper between the connector on the receiver and the winch. It would be nice to be able to put the winch on the rear. But that would mean creating a receiver mount for it and then carry it everywhere. Perhaps if I didn't have the Warn bumper I would mount the winch in front of a standard bumper on a receiver and then I could easily move it to the rear.

Ok, I ordered the Champion 4-row as well as that cap from Amazon. They are a bit more expensive than ebay, but I know if I have problems they'll work with me. And delivery is some time from Friday to next Tuesday.

Got a text back from my nephew, and he said the radiator he really liked is a De Witts. But they don't make a direct replacement for our trucks. Shaun, it would probably have free shipping. But a 3-row for more than a 4-row? It looks to me like Frostbite is Holley's brand. Does that make them any better? Scott - With the idea that they are pretty much all the same, I think I'm about ready to order a 4-row Champion. Anyone have other ideas? Better guidance?

Wow! went berserk! Looks like it was a hunting truck. But it has lots of good parts.