Gary Lewis

Welcome. Hope it goes well. As for the winch, you should consider these connectors. I'm using a set, which allows me to leave the wiring to the battery attached but take the winch off and put it on the trailer. Then I have a 10' jumper that connects back up to the truck.

Yep. I've never actually seen those mirrors.

Yes, I think you are right. Well done!

Working on a short-list of radiators: Frostbite 3 core: $308.95 plus shipping from Summit Frostbite 4-row: $412 from Holley, but won't ship for 10 days. And the same price from Summit. But Summit says they'll special order it for me, and it won't ship until November 3rd if I order today. Alloyworks: 4 row for $359 with free shipping and dual fans, although it looks like the clips for the factory shroud will fit nicely. Hold on - the reviews on Amazon for Alloyworks radiators have a 32% #1 rating, and the complaints are about leaks. PASS! Allowworks: Probably the same radiator as the one above but for $259 w/o fans it looks good. Hold on - the reviews on Amazon for Alloyworks radiators have a 32% #1 rating, and the complaints are about leaks. PASS! Champion 4-row: $267.95 and free shipping from ebay. Or $260 + $29 from Amazon. This is # - MC1451. But the reviews of Champion radiators for Jeeps on Amazon has 18% #1 ratings, and most are due to leaks. However, the reviews on Amazon for this radiator are 5 stars out of two reviews. And Jeg's has it for $302 and 4.3 stars out of 6 reviews. But the Amazon ratings for this radiator are from 2014 & 15, so they may be from before the production went overseas? And the Jegs reviews were from 8 months to 3 years ago. I sent a text to my nephew asking for his advice, and he said: So I'll wait and see what he tells me. EDIT: THE CAP BELOW DOES NOT FIT! And on the cap, I'm going with this one from Amazon. I really liked the Mr. Gasket one years ago until I found that their stuff is junk. But this one looks pretty good. Siri says 13 psi is .9 bar:

Looks great, Scott. But where did you get those boots? I badly need some for Big Blue as it is only a matter of time before a drop a tool on there. In fact, I'm thinking about creating a clear plexiglass cover for the smart isolator. Anyway, I like those studs. And, I fully understand capturing part numbers in your thread. Not only does it help others, but you can go back and find them.

That's really cool! I'm going to capture the pics here for posterity, but may also put them on the exterior mirror page.

Welcome, Jack! Glad you joined! We love father/son, or in this case son/father, projects. Cool! And your truck is quite similar to my Big Blue, or at least the way it came from the factory as there have now been few mod's. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) so would it be ok to add you? Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to keep track of what you and your father do to your truck. Maybe he'll want to join as well? Oh, and you should create a signature to help us remember what your truck is/has. How to do that is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Yep.

Yes on C610 and the red/light green wire. And probably yes on the yellow/green wire, but you want to ground the wire coming from the cab, meaning the one coming from the voltmeter. It'll be the one in the harness still on your truck. On the harness you are pointing to, here's what you should do with the wires from C610: Red/Orange: This is the wire that goes to Splice 203 and then through Fuse link J to the starter relay. You need to keep it. Yellow: This is the large wire that connects to Splice 202 and you need it. Yellow/Light Green: As said, you won't use this so can cut it and put a piece of heat shrink on it. Light Green/Red: As discussed, this goes to the alternator's LG/R wire Beyond that, you don't need the rest of the regulator's wiring harness. More specifically: Yellow/White Dots: Cut this wire off at Splice 203 Black/Orange: Cut this wire off at Splice 202 Does that answer the questions?

Thanks. What brand? On the shroud, I just realized that Summit's brand of radiator says "Designed for use with electric fans, the OEM fan shroud is not compatible with these radiators in most applications." I want to run the shroud I have awa the engine-driven fan.

Good question. I really don't know the answer.

Yes, that's surely C610. And, you've asked some good questions. Unfortunately our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion needs some upgrades as we don't have one schematic that answers all the questions. So, instead of answering your questions and then having to suggest other alternatives, let's go straight to the diagram below from that page and then the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab. This shows how I suggest you wire the output from the alternator. And what it says is: Take the output to the starter relay, but I really recommend that you put a megafuse in that circuit, probably w/a 150 amp fuse in it. Leave C610 and the shunt in place. Yes, you'll have a tiny voltage drop across the shunt, but it won't be enough to notice. Cut the yellow/light green wire on the cab side of C610, not on the engine side as shown below, and take that to ground via a relay closed by a key-on signal. Otherwise your voltmeter will be registering 24x7 and you'll slowly drain your battery. Then this drawing shows how to wire the rest, which you seem to have figured out. But you must have some switched power on the red/light green wire to bootstrap the alternator. However, you don't need a resistor nor bulb, just tie the existing red/light green wire to the alternator's "I" input. Does that answer all of the questions?

I think you are going to have to take it to a driveline shop. I say that because I've not seen the yoke that goes into the transfer case or the transmission wear out. That's because they are kept wet by the lube in the t-case or transmission. However, if the yoke is worn, like maybe someone ran things dry, then the output shaft of the t-case is probably also worn just as much. But, if you want to find the yoke go to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts and click on the Applications tab. Then scroll down to Page 19 where you'll find the F150 4wd's w/a C6. And there I see, as shown below, four different possibilities that match the info you've given. So you'll have to measure your driveshaft to see which yoke you have. IOW, is yours 31 17/32; 32 17/32; etc? Then, with the yoke # scroll back to the top and click on the Slip & Flange Yokes tab and you can find the part number for it. (See why I can't look everything up for everyone? Too much info is needed that you won't think to give me. Hence the reason I put the info online so you can look it up. )

You are now on the map.

The catalog says it is correct for 1980-82, so there is some difference starting in '83 although I don't know what it is. Perhaps that is when the wiring change happened that I ran into? If so re-pinning the connector should fix it. But, note that this kit doesn't include the vacuum reservoir nor 9A819, which is the transducer that goes between the two speedo cables.

This morning I was greeted with the view below. The towel wrapped around the hose was dry but the one laying in the radiator support was wet. There's a REMOTE chance that the radiator hose was leaking as the towel around it might not have been up against the radiator, but I don't think so. However, I did tighten the clamp, which wasn't loose. So I've raised the radiator on 2x4's placed between it and the radiator support so I can see the bottom of it with a mirror. Looks to me like the joint between the side cap and the center is leaking, but I want to prove that before I order a new radiator, so will keep the pressure on for a bit longer. Speaking of that, this one is brass/copper and weighs a ton. If I have to replace it I want to go with aluminum, so does anyone have any recommendations? I want OVERKILL. Oh yes, the 13 psi radiator cap starts leaking a bit at 12 psi, so needs to be replaced. And the lower hose has a cut in it that I can get my fingernail in, so I think I need to replace it while I have things apart - assuming I will have things apart.

Moved! And, while you could post your alternator question here I'd create a new thread in the main section for that. More people will see it so you'll get more, and potentially more complete, responses. Hey, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a town or zip.

Nice! But, aren't they chrome capped and not stainless?

Welcome! Glad you joined! However, our "joining process", which is not working well, asks you to post your first post in the New Members Start Here folder. The reason is that's where we keep the guidelines, and since we hold every member to them pretty tightly we want to make sure you've had a chance to read them. Have you? And, would it be ok if we moved this thread there? Then you'd be free to start a thread on your Bronco here in the main section and we'll follow along on its progress. Ok?

Some forums and most of the facebook pages, rely on "I think" rather than documentation. Yesterday I waded into a raging debate on a FB page re which Bullnose trucks had FORD on the hood. Guys were going back and forth with "my truck has FORD on the hood" or "mine doesn't" as if that proves anything. Hoods are changed all the time, and letters are easy to add. So I gave them a link to our page on literature and told them that it was 1980 & 81 and if they didn't believe it to go look at the brochures. And yet the debate raged on. Later on another page there was a debate about what thermostat to use in a 351M. Since the M-Block uses a very unusual thermostat, without which the cooling system won't work properly, I posted a link to our description thereof. But instead of reading that, which includes pictures and factory documentation, the OP asked "what is different about that thermostat?" Can these people not read? Or are they just too lazy to do so?

And right there you see why I do not use aftermarket manuals. There are mistakes in the Ford manuals, but they are few and far between. However, there are many mistakes in the aftermarket manuals, and they can cause costly problems. Whelp! (And I don't mean puppies.) I had the Haynes in my hand so it was convenient and, I've found mistakes in the factory manual to my Mark III, my Saabs, and right here online in the manual to my truck, so I'm not convinced there are more mistakes in the aftermarket manuals. More interesting is that I found a raging firestorm of a thread on a Ford Truck forum about the torque value on the locknut. There's filthy language and bomb-throwing -- it's a lotta fun. The suggestions range from 80 to 220 ft. lbs. Factory says 50, Haynes says 150. Now I have no clue what's right. I put those bearings in the truck about 15 years ago when I rebuilt the front driveline and suspension and here weren't many miles on them so they shouldn't have gone bad. I can see that the races have run hot and the grease on the inside bearing was pitch black, though it was the outer that failed. It was really hard to break the locknut loose because, well, I used the Haynes when I did the job the first time. Mark I found a big mistake in the 1995 FSM - you'd twist the bolt off if you tried to put that much torque on it. But I've found fewer in the FSM's than I have in others, so I religiously use the FSM spec's. If your grease was black the whole thing got really hot. What grease did you use? I ask because some aren't designed for the temps that disc brakes can create.

Nice truck. I'm not impressed by some of the cheap crimped electrical connections, but they could probably be replaced.

This morning, while drinking coffee, the Alaskan plate was given to me! The man who sent it my way graduated from High School in 1979. This was the plate on the vehicle he was driving at that time. Excellent! Congrat's! Must have been good coffee?

I haven't compared them to the newer ones, but several people have said that they work better as they work off the actual brake pressure. However, you have to plumb them into the brake lines, so when I put one on Big Blue I went with an electronic unit. Seems to work fine.

I agree that's a good price. And it is equipped with an old-style trailer brake controller. They are hard to find.