Gary Lewis

Then you may have a ground problem. Everything thing in the rear grounds to a ground under the dash. But if the wire is broken or bad along the way strange things happen. Try grounding one tail light back to the battery and see if the symptoms change.

Is it possible that when you said "tail lights" you mean "turn signals"? Actually, Ford calls the tail lights the "rear park lamps". The tail lights don't have anything to do with the turn signals, as you can see below. But if you mean the turn signals, then I think you have a bad turn signal switch. As you can see below, everything runs through that switch, and they are known to fail.

You are now on the map. As for the main page, when you initially register you aren't supposed to be able to post on the main page. But I made you a full-fledged member pretty quickly, so you should be able to post there now. On the pics, I suspect you have looked at the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page as you've already created a sig. But don't miss the tab on Posting Pics. But what that tab doesn't say, and should, is that this forum is like many forums and doesn't read the metadata that provides the camera orientation information. So if you take a pic sideways or upside down it'll post that way unless you open it in some editing software and then save it.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or zip. On where to post, most post on the main forum page, but you are free to post here if you want. It is just that fewer people will see it here, so I'd go to the main page.

Somehow I missed this. Sorry, David. The speedo is off about 5 mph at 65, but the odo is very close. So I haven't tried to fix it as fixing the speedo will mess up the odo. Need to calibrate the speedo I guess. But the tranny swap won't make a difference since the speedo is driven from the t-case, and it didn't change.

Getting it up there w/o banging it into something and wiping the goo off is really hard to do. I've vowed I won't do it again. Think I'm in the same place the guy on FTE is who said "Next time I try to put the pan on with the engine in the vehicle I think I'll just pour gas on the truck and light it."

Excellent! As someone is wont to say, these trucks are like onions. You peel the layers of problems off and cry. But pretty soon you have enough to have a bunch of onion rings!

If your pan is set up for a one-piece rubber gasket that's what I'd use. I would not use just "RTV", meaning the stuff that you squeeze out of a tube. Instead, if you want to use a formed-in-place gasket I'd use The Right Stuff, which is designed to be used instead of gaskets. The difference is that the RTV in a squeeze tube doesn't expand, so you'd put it on, put the pan in place, and gently tighten the bolts to finger tight so you don't squeeze it all out and have metal-on-metal. Then you let that set up overnight and come back the next day to torque it down. But with TRS you pull the trigger and it dispenses via gas pressure. Then you put the pan on and tighten it down and the stuff expands to fill all voids. However, installing a pan while the engine is on the vehicle is very fiddly. And since it is easy to mess up the stuff you've put on the pan while you are installing it, I'd only use RTV or TRS with the engine out and on a stand.

Yep, that's why the USB port is exposed. Once the truck is ready to drive, I expect we'll be making a number of passes up and down the highway by my brother's house, with my laptop plugged into the Arduino so we can adjust the shift points until we're happy. But, I don't know that I'll need the relay board so the box wouldn't need to be that big. I think I'm just going to want to drive a display, if I can find one the right size, that reads out in the top of the medium-duty radio bezel's opening. I just want to do away with the aftermarket gauges that are hard-plumbed, so taking the gauge bezel off is a huge pain. But I'll discuss that over in BB's thread when the time comes. Once I'm done with this project, I'll be doing cases for other purposes...among them an Arduino-only case. So when the time comes I expect I'll have a small case that would meet your needs...and if I don't, it would be a quick matter to put one together given that I already have all the measurements needed. I'll also be doing a Raspberry Pi case, plus a properly-sized case for the voltage regulator that I use to power my ham radio with my robotics batteries. The current case is HUGE, and inspired my previous complaint about case sizes. That's a serious voltage regulator. And I can see how useful that would be with a ham radio. And a purpose-printed case for it would be ideal. And thanks for the offer on the case. Not sure that I'll do it, but it I do I'll surely take you up on that.

Thanks! This whole project actually feels more professional as well...I've done other (non-automotive) projects in the past with cases that I've purchased, and they never feel right. It's rare to find a case the exact size you need, so you end up with something that is too large, and you have to figure out how to get your board or whatnot mounted without coming loose, and then the whole thing is way larger than necessary, and and and... This is much better. On the sketch, with it be table-driven or equation-driven? I'm having a hard time getting my head around how just using the TPS and line pressure would work. Will you also have a tach input? Nope, no tach. The trick here is that it's just the overdrive that is being controlled by the Arduino; gears 1-3 are old-school hydraulics. So the logic is super simple...if vehicle speed is above a certain level and the pedal is pressed by a certain amount that means you're on the open road and it's time to engage overdrive. If the speed is below a certain level and the pedal isn't pressed so much, you're slowing down and it's time to disengage. Plus the O/D lockout button has to be handled, and that's it. I like the Ruggeduino, and something like your case with just the Ruggeduino looks like what I'd want to do to read various parameters and drive a display. Let me know whenever you're ready to do it. I'd be happy to print you up a case, or if you want to play with it yourself you're welcome to the CAD file as well...no reason to re-invent the wheel, unless you really want to. "Purpose-built" comes to mind. When it just fits it is just right! Oh, now I understand on the tranny. Yes, the sketch should be pretty simple. Are you going to have any input, like from a bluetoothed cell phone or USB-connected device, to allow you to modify the shift points? That might be very helpful in tuning. On the box, thanks! I don't have a 3D printer, so couldn't use the CAD file. Oh wait, I could send it to a commercial printer, like I've done before. But, I don't know that I'll need the relay board so the box wouldn't need to be that big. I think I'm just going to want to drive a display, if I can find one the right size, that reads out in the top of the medium-duty radio bezel's opening. I just want to do away with the aftermarket gauges that are hard-plumbed, so taking the gauge bezel off is a huge pain. But I'll discuss that over in BB's thread when the time comes.

Matthew - That is really looking professional! Well done! On the sketch, with it be table-driven or equation-driven? I'm having a hard time getting my head around how just using the TPS and line pressure would work. Will you also have a tach input? I like the Ruggeduino, and something like your case with just the Ruggeduino looks like what I'd want to do to read various parameters and drive a display.

Shaun - Good to see that the harnii pluged together.

Bummer about the A/C, Jonathan. But at least you got the door on - and can roll up the window!

Nothing from from me.

Clifton - There are two styles. I think that yours would use the later style, but it would be good to post a pic of one of your pieces so we can see the shape of the cross-section of the rubber.

I bought an 82 F150 351W in Kansas which came with a feedback system and an ECU under the driver’s seat. I pulled the ECU and associated wiring, and plugged a DS-II harness in under the hood. Worked great.

It feels so good to get to drive it, even if it isn’t finished. Congrat’s!!!

Jonathan - You have a lot on your plate, so no worries. On the wiring harness, I think you mean 14401, which is known as WIRING ASSY. (INSTRUMENT PANEL TO DASH PANEL). Here's a snippet of the first entry for it in the MPC. And then it goes into a listing by vehicle and engine, like this: I don't have any of that up on the website, but can do at some point. You need something from it?

Well done!

I've not seen the burned/melted wires on the wiper motor. But I'd change it out! As for the mouse count, you are winning.

I bet you are right. Did some quick googling on the dealer cc and appears to have started in the mid "D" years. I'd say you can celebrate a little Check out Big Blue’s Transformation thread on a wiring change between 81 and 85 in the speed control area. I had the buzzer going off every time I opened the door, even without the key in the ignition due to it. Had to move pins in one of those connectors.

When you take a pic with a modern camera, including phones, the camera puts orientation information in the picture file. And then when modern software reads the pic it orients the pic properly. Unfortunately this forum's software, like most forum's software, doesn't read the orientation data. So you have to orient the pic in other software and then save it. Most times I've been successful opening a pic in Photoshop, making a minor change, and then saving it. That usually reorients it properly.

Steve - I like your list. But, there is a way to "embed" the list in your post. You'll need something like OneDrive or Google Drive, and put your file on there. Then follow the instructions on the Embed tab on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Love it, Kevin!

This forum’s software, like most forum’s software, isn’t smart enough to read the orientation data in the pic. So you have to pull it into editing software, which usually does reorient the pic, and then save it.