Gary Lewis

Welcome, again. Glad you joined. What part of South Georgia? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a zip. And we love stories like "this has been in my family its whole life"! Hope you'll post some pics.

LOL! Yes, I do remember that conversation now that you mentioned it.

Welcome! But usually people start their own introduction thread rather than posting in here. Just click on the New Members Start Here link at the top of the page, click New Topic, and away you go. That way you'll get a chance to see our guidelines, and we hope you'll read them as we hold members to them.

Looks good, Bill. But are you going to pull that and replace it? If so, what with?

Yep. No one was going to throw anything away. So it is very possible that '86 trucks got the wires with dots and hash marks.

It wasn't fixed. Since I verified no vacuum leaks, I moved on to fuel. I had issues with the truck firing off a little slower than usual, and occasional hiccups at higher rpms. I stuck my fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and found the fuel pressure at 50 PSI. The spec in the Ford shop manual for this truck says 60-65, so I went ahead and threw a new fuel pump in it Thanksgiving night. The old one had 180k on it and was original, so it getting weak was not a surprise. On the test drive I noticed the STFT were back closer to zero, and on the way to and from work Friday the LTFT started dropping. Today saw the same reductions and with no more codes since the fuel pump replacement, I'm calling her fixed. Yippee! Glad you got it fixed - before it failed you.

Ya, I think that the '83 cabs had the hole for the mechanical linkage and were stamped for the hydraulic clutch master. Yes, the only 83's that got the hydraulic clutch linkage were those with 460's and the IDI's. The rest of the engines got hydraulic in '84.

Heretofore I've believed that the page below from the 1986 EVTM means that the dots and hash marks on the wiring were done away with as of 1986. But it doesn't quite say that - I just inferred that. However, today I found that some of Big Blue's wiring doesn't have the expected hash marks, and instead has stripes. In the page below from the '85 EVTM he should have a red/yellow hash wire for circuit 640. But instead, he has a red/yellow stripe wire. However, elsewhere he does have dots and stripes. So, apparently the changeover wasn't done during the model year change, but gradually on a by-circuit basis. However, generally the 85's had dots and hash marks, and 86's had stripes.

Yippee!!! Can't wait for the pictures and report. And, by the way, another test you could do is to check the voltage at the headlights before & after the harness change.

Didn't get quite everything done that I'd hoped to do, but I got quite a bit done. First was the cargo light. Search as I did I only found one bright while LED that would fit, and it was the one in the dome/map light and has most of the LEDs around the sides and only 4 on the end. And it is soooo long that those LEDs are almost touching the lens. But after several minutes of leaving it on the lens didn't seem to be hot. So I put it in and used the special caulk to seal it up. Then I removed the instrument panel and the aftermarket gauges awa the AFR meter. But that was far easier to say than to do! I really have a burr under my saddle today for . Just drilling a hole in the back of the pocket and running all of the tubes and wires through that is downright MEAN. I finally cut a section of the instrument bezel away in order to get those gauges off w/o feeding all that back through the firewall - and of course pulling the temp and oil pressure senders. But just getting the gauge's bracket off the bezel as the screws they used were were completely blocked by the gauges. Man, that was a pain! So I put screws into the instrument bezel, held in with hot-melt glue, so I could put the gauges back on w/o those screws. It worked, but was fiddly as it is hard to get up in there with a wrench. Then, with the aftermarket gauges and the instrument panel bezel off I could remove the instruments and wire in the MeterMatch. It only needs switched power, ground, the lead from the sending unit, and the lead to the meter. Once that was done I used resistors to calibrate the unit. And it didn't work. So I did it again. And again. Then I realized I was forgetting to press Save each time. The next round I did hit Save and the thing appears to work! But we'll find out tomorrow. Here's a shot showing where I put the MeterMatch. It gets covered by the trim piece that goes under the steering column, so is hidden but accessible if I need to re-calibrate it.

Alan - You are now on the map. And, I agree with the plan to replace things like the clutch and flywheel while you have the tranny back. You can usually get a clutch set for ~$100.

I think it would be easy enough to put either DC or AC in a tent. But I think it would be prudent to go on a trip or two before deciding to do that, and in the interim the battery pack should suffice for charging the watch and phone. And you are right about the lights. I think placing them in the top of the tent is what Bret had planned. But if they are there semi-permanently I'll have to have USB power to them to recharge their battery. Or rig a way for the hockey puck to see the sun as there's a solar panel on it.

$500 is cheap, but that thing has RUST! However, for $500 I'd take it.

Good finds from marketplace. On the load sensing valve's o-rings, I'd suggest brake fluid.

Welcome! Sorry I'm late to the party, but glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a zip. On the rebuild procedures, we have the ones from the factory shop manual at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6.

That does look helpful. I know that with a 460 it is a pain to pull that filter.

Thanks, guys. I guess we can sum it up this way, with "driver's side" meaning the left side in North America. Dave has a point about left vs driver's side, but we don't know about trucks produced for other countries, like Australia.: 1980 - 82: The coat hook was on the driver's side, with the trim put on with retainers 1983 - 86: The coat hook was on the passenger's side with the trim put on with retainers 1987 & on: The coat hook was on the passenger's side, but the trim was put on with screws. That trim can be used on Bullnose trucks as it still has the crimped edges to take the retainers, but it'll have screw holes showing so you might want to use screws in place of or in addition to the retainers. Is that a fair way to summarize it?

Scott - Thanks! Jim - No problem, I've found several that don't have LEDs in them, inc the Blue Seas one that Scott has. And, I forgot, these don't want to come apart to let me clip the lead to the LEDs. The end is well glued on. As for having "that many outlets", you now see the method to my madness. I have these devices that may need charging on an overlanding trip: USB:Flashlights: Two small ones, one that goes on the bill of a cap and one that will throw a beam a couple hundred yardsWorklights: I have the two foldable Amazon worklights, and at least one of them will go on tripsParty Lights: My son got me a string of party lights that are stored in a housing about the size of a hockey puck.Phones: Assuming two passengers we'll have two phones to charge dailyWatches: I have an Apple Watch to charge dailyinReach: I hope to have a Garmin inReach on any overlanding trip to ensure there will be connectivity, just in case 12VDC:Handhelds: I have the two Midland GMRS radios, and they can be charged via a 12v power port 110VAC:Battery Pack: Jump starter packRidgid Tools: Assuming I'll be taking a few of the battery-operated tools I'll want to be able to charge themTablet: My Microsoft tablet will go with me Well, that's quite a list and I'd never really thought through what all would need to be charged. Not all will need to be charged daily, but I can see that phones and watches will. And yet, I don't think that I'll want to leave my watch or phone in the cab of the truck while I'm sleeping in a tent on top of the truck. The phones could be charged during the day as we drive, but not the watches. And the battery pack has a USB outlet on it, if I remember correctly, so maybe it goes into the tent with us at night and gets topped up during the day?

Jim - That's a bummer! Hope you find a safe place to pull it.

These USB chargers do have QC 3.0 chips in them, so supposedly they'll charge some devices much faster. But I put my DVM on one of them today and plugged my iPhone X in. The phone was at 93% charged and yet it only pulled ~100ma. Perhaps because it was almost charged? Anyway, I won't mind these glowing blue when they are behind the seat as the only time they'll be on is when the engine is running or the key is in Accy. (Or the switch in Mission Control is pushed?) But what charger did you get w/o LED's? Hopefully I'll have an answer for you tomorrow on the TechnoVersions Meter Match.

Looking great, Bill! And the plan on the fasteners sounds good as well. Good plan, Stan.

No, the load-sensing valve is located on the driver's side frame near the rear axle.

Ok, you want to say it, but I will say it: GOOD JOB!

Well, the dash pad/cover is IN! The issue was that it wasn't far enough to the driver's side by 1/16" and it was hitting a support on the passenger's side. Moved it over and it slid into place. But, I then pulled it out so I could run all the wiring I need to Mission Control. Up there now are these wires, listed here for documentation purposes: Pink: Pull-in for the compressor relay Yellow: Spare #16 wire to under the hood on the driver's side. Maybe driving light? Fast idle solenoid? Pull-in for the aux battery relay to power the inverter when not in Accy or Run? White & Purple: One is pull-in for the Cole Hersee smart isolator and the other is hot to an LED to tell when the batteries are paralleled The other 4: The wires to/from the OX locker Here's a shot showing the wires behind the radio bezel (Mission Control) and the looms running from both sides into that area: Then I put the pad/cover back in and tightened it down. And I used the flanged-head screws like are used to hold the radio bezel to the pad to hold the pad down in the defroster vents because the cover is so thin. But the wider screws worked out nicely. And with that done I put the "power box" roughly in place. But, also in the Amazon delivery with the box were the USB chargers and the DC power points. And I learned something about the USB chargers I don't like - they have LED's in them that pull 14ma whenever power is applied. So, I don't think I want to put one of them in the ash tray as that power is always on. Given that, I'm going to do a bit of CAD work to see if I can get two USB chargers and two DC power ports in the box - along with the relay, AC outlet, and DC fuse. Tomorrow I'm going to wrap up a few things and then Tuesday Janey and I are going to take Big Blue on an outing. Here's my list, in order of decreasing importance: Install the cargo light, hopefully with an LED and the caulk that came in Install the meter matching box so the gauges work properly. Swap out the burled wood instrument bezel for the black one ROAD TRIP!!!!

I have a spare like that, and may take it when I go overlanding just in case the "new" spare isn't enough. But I sure wouldn't plan to go very far. Anyway, good job on the carrier!