Gary Lewis

Thanks Jim, but is this the one? It says COIL:208/240. Scott - Yes, it is looking better. But I'm still trying to work out the naming convention.

David - I can't find that part number nor even smaller pieces of it. So I don't know anything about it. Sorry.

Jim - I wish I could get to the back, but I can't easily. However, thinking about it, I could have reached in where the grommets are and reached in there to some extent. But I doubt I would have been able to reach the one I put in the center. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.

Welcome! As David said, nice trucks. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), so do you mind if we add you? Florence is close enough. The freeze plug behind the flywheel will be work as the t-case & tranny have to slide back, if not come out. But it is straight forward. As for the exhaust manifold, from what Myrl tells us Ford discontinued using gaskets on the 300 six due to the manifolds needing to use the block as a heat sink. I think he said they now use graphite grease.

In the States we are spoiled for choice on Ford truck suppliers, so they need to differentiate themselves. Unfortunately LMC has done so in a very negative fashion. I'm not mad at LMC. In fact, since they are close to me and I know Keith personally I'd like them to succeed. But looking back on my career in IT, if I had programmers who said they weren't going to fix something like that they'd be looking for another job - w/o a positive reference. It isn't "clunky" in my experience. It is just wrong. I will admit that when ordering some things that some of that info is necessary. But I'm already on the 1980-96 Ford page, so there is no reason to ask the Make question. And if I'm shopping for apparel I should never see any of the questions. All it takes is customizing the pop-up questions and calling them at the appropriate time. But they can't be bothered. So, I'll use catalogs that work correctly, or bypass the catalog altogether.

Gary, All good points. RockAuto search menu is the same way...you have to pick the engine before you can select what other parts you need. However, I never use the LMC website either...not really. I pick what I want out of the print catalog, and then just log in and order online. That's one of the reasons I like LMC...I look forward to the catalog arriving in the mail the same a way a kid (used to) look for the Sears Christmas catalog...lol. I know you guys have more options than I do. I only ordered from JBG once, and the shipping was very expensive. I have since heard from others that they've declined to ship to Canada, but I can't confirm that personally. LMC and RockAuto are my two go-to Bullnose parts sellers, and while they both get some bad press from time to time, I've been pretty happy with both of them. Cory - There is a big difference in what I buy from Rock Auto and what I buy from LMC, JBG, etc. RA is where I get steering components, brakes, etc. So I expect RA to need to know things about my truck. But from LMC and the others I'm looking for accessories. I just went to my browser and typed in LMC and got an option for 1980 - 96 Ford trucks and clicked on it. And at the top of the page in the URL it says "ford-truck-bronco-1980-1996". And one of the things on which I could click was apparel, so I did, and this pops up. I rest my case. I will NOT use their on-line catalog.

Jim - I don't plan to run any bigger motor than the 1.5 HP one on this compressor. And since size and expense seem to go hand in hand with capacity, I just want one that can handle this compressor and a few wall warts. Scott - Thanks for calling them. But the CWD2490-10 is $100 at Digikey. It is small at 1.75" x 2.25", but does it require a heat sink? I'll have to read more.

The proper way to install a rivnut: Of course, this is after you spend an hour cutting the head off the bolt with a Dremel, one little bit at a time 'cause the thing that's being held in is plastic. And, because you can't get on it from above, only the side. Anyone want a 140-3=137 piece nutsert set? I WAS WRONG! Y'ALL WERE RIGHT.

:nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps:

Greg - The fact that pumping the pedal, which moves the TV cable, makes it work well for a short period suggests to me that something is slipping in the adjustment. Are you sure that everything is properly secured? As for how to adjust it, I'd take Ford's word for it before I believed someone on Youtube that I don't know. Ford's factory shop manual section is at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Automatic Over Drive (AOD).

I can't say that the Crydom unit won't work, but the fact that it didn't list inductive load spec's makes it very suspect. I'm heading out to the shop soon and will see how much space I think I have and if one of the Tyco contactors will fit in it. If so I'll pick one that has the needed capacity to handle the compressor and let y'all know.

I thought we had the paddle and used it on the newbies. Anyway, you are certainly making progress! Finding the whole assembly was a huge blessing. And finding the rear setup in such good shape was a blessing as well. And that bench test confirmed what you already thought - time to replace the pumps.

From what I've read the E-code lights are the better ones. But don't miss this post in the Lighting Upgrades thread. Danial Stern provided a link to the ones he recommended at the time. Which reminds me, I sent him an email recently but haven't gotten a response. I'll go back to him, again, for an update.

I don't give LMC as high marks, but that is due to their on-line catalog, which I refuse to use. No matter what I go looking for it insists that I tell them all the details about my truck, even when those details do not matter. As an example, back when I was looking for the Highliner headliner it wanted to know what engine I have and if the truck is 2wd or 4wd. I've had a conversation with Keith about this and he understands but assured me that the software types aren't going to fix it. And I assured him that I'm not going to use the catalog until they do. I have found a workaround in a way. If I know the manufacturer's part number I Google that and I'll get hits for it on LMC, JBC, Dennis Carpenter, etc. Then I can follow the link to the item. That makes pricing items easy. So, back to the example, with that approach I found that JBG listed the Highliner for $275 and LMC listed it for $375. Guess where I bought?

Ok, with a bit more searching, and a cup of Starbucks, I think I'm starting to come out of the fog. And I think what I'm seeing is that there is no direct correlation between voltage and HP rating for contactors. The table below, taken from Jameco, shows that some Tyco contactors have a rating of 1HP @ 120VAC and 2HP @ 250VAC, while others are rated at 1.5HP @ 120 and 2HP @ 250. The 1.5HP rating is what I'm looking for, but now if I can figure out all of the other bits in the part number, and that will let me know the sizes. Man, this is complex! Scott - The Crydom document doesn't mention the terms "HP", "horse", or "inductive". So while that relay says it is good for 50A, that is apparently a resistive load rating. This article at Digikey discusses solid state relays and inductive loads, which includes motors, and says: I'm not enough of an electronics engineer to know what kind of SSR the Crydom one is, and the fact that it doesn't discuss inductive loads suggests to me that it isn't designed for them.

Jim - Thanks. Contactor is a good term. But in this case I'm not looking for serious overkill. Just adequate. But I'm trying to remember how to determine what is adequate. IOW, is a 2 HP @ 250VAC rating just 1 HP @ 120VAC? Or is it still 2 HP? I know doubling the voltage at the same current usually doubles the HP rating of a motor, but is there a parallel on contactors/relays? Scott - Thanks for the pic and data sheet via text. The pic of the one on ebay, below, makes it look huge. But looking at the data sheet I see that the module is only 1 3/4" x 2 1/4", so I'm guessing that heat sink is only 4" square. What I think I need to do is to is to put a box in the space above the inverter, and include in it the contactor/relay, a single AC outlet for the compressor, a fuse, and several DC power ports. I'll run 12v from the switch in the dash down the area below the threshold to the relay, and the 110V cord to the compressor through the back of the cab corner into the bed and then into the tool box to the compressor. Given the limited space above the inverter, I think the power ports will have to point up or anything plugged into them will hit the seatback. And while I'd hoped to also put a power strip up there to make plugging wall warts in for charging things, I'm afraid they'll just have to plug into the inverter itself.

I think the Hellas and the harness will make a big difference, but I am anxious to see what you think about that change. On the lights for the bumper, I'm with Jim. I think you want lights that have a focus and throw the light well down the road - or the sides thereof. I like the shape of the ones you show, but don't know anything about the beam pattern they produce.

I'm now finding some relays. For reference the HF compressor is rated at 1.5 HP but is said to pull a max of 14 amps. Yeeco 30A: This says 30A at 250VAC, but then it says 1HP at 110VAC. Sorry, but 30A @ 250V is 7500W, which is technically about 10 HP. I'm lost. Jameco: This one is rated at 2HP @ 250VAC, and 30A @ 250VAC. I'm trying to remember what I've learned about inductive motors, starting current, etc. Someone want to school me?

Most of the sensors you'll need to disconnect for an engine swap would need to be disconnected to pull the heads. Saying it another way, if you pull the heads you'll have also pulled the intake, distributor, injectors & fuel rail, exhaust manifolds, etc. And the power steering pump, A/C compressor, and alternator will have to be laid to the side as they are on brackets that bolt to the heads. After doing all that to pull the engine I think you'd just have to additionally remove the radiator, radiator support, & grille.

While you are pondering the last question, let me ask another. And I'll confess up front that it must be late or I'm having a senior moment. But I'm looking for a relay to handle the compressor's 110v requirements and yet be pulled in by 12v and I'm not finding them. All the spec's I'm seeing for a typical Bosch relay show the contacts rated for 14V DC. But I need one rated at 110/120V AC. My memory says that it is far easier to break AC current than it is DC current, but can I use a typical Bosch relay for 110V?

Yea, it will take a bit for them to come down. I just took a rip up the highway and back and no pending codes this time, so hopefully it's fixed. I'll test it for sure tomorrow. What is the long term effect of an engine running lean? This is the first time I've had a vehicle do this, so I'm learning as I go. You have to get it really lean and run it for quite a while to hurt anything. But lean can make the engine run hot and damage valves or pistons over the long haul. I doubt you've hurt anything at all.

Thanks, Dane. Y'all may be wondering why I'm working on the caddy when I need to finish up the Highliner. Well, I've realized that I can't easily get to the bottom of the cab corners with the corner trim on, and need to run the power and ground circuits through there. So I can't put the corner trim on, permanently, which means I can't put the metal trim on yet as it goes over the corner trim. But the corner trim holds the caddy forward a bit, so I needed it in place so I could position the caddy and drill the holes and put the nutserts in. Tomorrow I hope to get the nutserts in, put the slots in the trim to use it as a hold-down, paint the two trim pieces, and then determine how much #2 wire I need 'cause I'll probably have to order it. And I think I'll have to order the Magnalugs. One other thing I need to sort out is the 110v wiring. I need to come from the inverter to a relay box that's controlled by a switch on the dash, and from there to compressor in the tool box. And I'm not sure how to run that wire. I'm thinking about going out the back of the passenger's cab corner with a grommet and into the bed through another grommet. Thoughts?

Won't the long-term #'s stay the same for a while after you fixed the vacuum leak? I think you have to drive it for a while to get them to come down. As for not driving differently, it has to get pretty lean before you'll notice. Like maybe 17:1 and even then it is still running ok, but just doesn't have the spunk it should have.

Thanks, Jim! I recognize that term, and like the implications. I really like making things look as if they were designed that way from the factory.

I should have said that I believe you can have a new crate engine for the $3k you were quoted.