Gary Lewis

Good to know!

I have some measurements, but will try to draw it up later this evening: 53 1/2" wide x 15" high x 6 1/2" deep at base to 2 3/4" at top. But, it doesn't start angling for the first 3" Main compartment is 41 5/8" wide & the right compartment is 11 5/8" wide Bottom shelf is 6 1/2" high w/a 2" lip in front Middle shelf is 6 1/4" high w/a 2" lip Top shelf has a 2" lip and its compartments are 8"; 12"; 11 3/4"; & 8" wide from right to left Most walls and dividers are 1/4" thick, but bottom lip is 7/16" thick and the bottom plate is 3/8" thick

I'm confused. The meter is in series and if anything it drops the current the charger would pull w/o it since it is a resistor/shunt. Right? I do have the bench power supply, but the analog meter doesn't read that precisely. Black Friday? I saw meters on sale some place very recently.

Good thoughts, Jim. Thanks. On the plug working out, I just plugged the compressor into the socket I'm using and there's a definite "click" as it goes home and it isn't easy to pull out. So I don't think it is going to work out. But, there's no real reason the socket can't go on top, and that will ensure it doesn't come out. So I'll do some more CAD work to make sure the relay can go on the end w/o hitting the socket. Probably won't get starting building the box today 'cause I spent quite a bit of time this morning on the phone re the switches, which I'll report on later. And I'm installing the charger in the ash tray, which is taking some finesse. Plus, I swapped steering wheels and the horn is going to take some minor changes. Thanks! Later.....

Jim - My point is that in its quiescent state it pulls 6 ma. And that is at least partially due to it having an LED that wasn't mentioned in the advert. I don't want that load on the battery when the truck might not be driven for a month or so at a time. I'm sure there are other dark currents, but I don't want to add this one to them.

Well, that's disappointing. Gotta go with switched power.

I meant to ask if we still need seat measurements? And, if we do, exactly which measurements? And, before answering, have you seen the page at Documentation/Interior/Seat Interchangeability? My opinion is that people should NOT drill holes in the floor pan and space up with washers to install different seats. From what I've seen the bolt holes in our trucks are reinforced, although others have said otherwise. And if you drill and shim at the very least you should reinforce the floor at the bolt holes. I've said this before, but there have been many cases in other vehicles of the floor pan breaking around the bolt holes if people drill holes and don't reinforce. I've not heard of that on the Bullnose trucks, but I believe that will eventually be the case. So I highly recommend you do not do that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-Ford-OBS-Truck-Front-Jump-Seat-Mounting-Bracket-Regular-40-20-40-Crew-Cab/114548656324?fits=Submodel%3ABase%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item1aaba1c8c4:g:EsYAAOSwfmFfxBGd https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-Ford-OBS-Truck-Front-Jump-Seat-Mounting-Bracket-Regular-40-20-40-Crew-Cab/184521587992?hash=item2af657fd18:g:4u4AAOSwVTVfo2qA Yipes! Those things have gotten like GOLD!

Then it could be used to seal a tube or hose of some kind.

I think I'll give it a try if it is in decent shape. Not sure I like the more "modern" look, but it sure is hard to read the extra gauges, and if it helps with that it might be worth it. And, it isn't like it can't be reversed. And, thinking of a black Bullnose one, I don't think it would be too hard to sand a Bullnose one down and paint it black. Maybe use that SEM texture and then their different black paint?

Big Blue has the black ones on, and I kind of like them. They fit right in with what is becoming a trend of black on the truck. But I'm not sure what I'd think of those "bright" ones.

That is a rare piece, and not all that bad of a price.

I've not used Sugru. Does it remain flexible?

Well, would you look at that! I think I have one of those in the attic off Huck. It will work, right? It doesn't look "Bullnose", but has a real advantage that the way it drops down might make reading the aftermarket gauges and the AFR meter far easier. If it'll work I may put it on to see what I think.

We really need to come up with a slick and easy way to repair these. I'm wondering if a piece of the right tubing, and I don't know what "right" is, could be split and slipped over the wire. The tubing I'm thinking of would be rigid enough that when split it would close up again. Maybe even a piece of very small loom/convolute?

I'll measure mine in a bit and post here....

I don't have a pic, Scott. Nor have I seen one. But it looks to me like E7TZ 13A805-B would work. Yes?

Yep, probably relisted. Pretty, and pretty expensive. But those things wear so a NOS one would be wonderful. Speaking of horn covers w/speed control, it dawned on me that I "need" to find a black one to compliment the black instrument & radio bezels, awa the black dash and headliner. No hurry at all, and I've spent enough lately to want to push this off for a while, but if you find one please let me know. Doesn't have to be NOS as the black ones probably don't wear like the others.

I don't know about Trent, but I have one with most of the measuring done. Will post up the dimensions tomorrow.

Jim - I'll think about that. Thanks. Now let me go over my plans for the "power box". You folks have seen it before but there have been some tweaks so I thought I'd 'splain it this round 'cause I think I'll start building it tomorrow. I've re-oriented the AC relay so it takes up less left/right room. And I moved the DC fuse to the bottom. Both of those changes gave me more left/right room for the chargers & power ports, and I spaced them out to take advantage of that space. So now I'm confident that as new tech for chargers comes along I'll be able to swap these chargers out for the new ones - if I see a need. And with the fuse on the bottom the DC power will come directly to it and then fan out to the chargers and power ports above the fuse. DC ground will also come in there and daisy chains across the chargers & power ports as well as goes to the far lug on the right of the relay. The DC switching signal will go to the nearest right lug of the relay. And the AC cord will fan out with ground going to the angled lug on the AC outlet, neutral going to the closest straight-out lug, and hot going to the closest lug on the left of the relay. A jumper from the next-in lug on the relay to the other lug on the outlet finishes the AC wiring.

If the grilles and hood letters are an issue just have two versions.

I was thinking I'd want a different colored lens for each switch to make them easily differentiated when they are off or on. Six possible colors and six switches. But when you said "would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving", do you mean the lens or the LED? I think you meant lens since you then said "The LED behind can be whatever color". So I guess I don't fully understand why not have different lens colors so it helps you pick the switch. On the spreadsheet, I think that's a good idea. There aren't very many options I need to change. Will give that a try.

Yes, if the OX switch has a part number on it, assuming they didn't pull a Ford, I can then just change out a few variables, like: Poles & throws: The OX switch is DPDT but most of what I need is SPST Action: The battery parallel switch is supposed to be momentary as that gives you X seconds of parallel. Otherwise it could get left on. Lens: The color is one of the options Light: The light color, assuming you go with LED, is an option. And they say "Lens color for LEDs must be clear, white, or match color of LED"

Ok, let me think through this, and I'd like y'all's input. And lens color options are: Clear White Amber Green Red Blue OX locker: Blue Air compressor: White I'd found this symbol on a Carling pub somewhere but can't find it now: Driving lights: Amber with this symbol Backup lights: Red and the lens would say Backup Lights Parallel batteries: Green And Carling has an icon that says "Battery Parallel" Fast Idle: This was "PTO" but I think Fast Idle is better as it may not be done via the PTO function of the EFI system. And even if it is PTO isn't self-explanatory. White and this icon 'cause I don't see a better one, although I know Shaun didn't like it.

Jim - I started trying to specify them from that page. But that got difficult as I didn't understand what the options mean. So I went to Mouser's catalog and they have Carling part numbers as well as explanations, and I then decoded what they said vs what Carling said - and got confused. Yes, they are all vertical. But the bodies come in several different colors. And there are SPDT, DPDT, momentary, etc. No light, one light, and two lights - in several different colors and combinations. And several different voltages for the lights. And voltage and current ratings for the contacts. As for legends, I'm still researching that as well. Carling has these, but I don't know how to get them so plan to call Carling tomorrow. And there are a bunch of people that sell decals, like: Defender Ebay And there are people who appear to sell the "actuators", the rocker if you will, like: Revolution Offroad Ebay It looks like you can do about anything you want with Carling switches. But what I want are lighted switches with a graphic or lettering on the lens, like the OX switch. I'll post again in a bit with what I think I want the switches to look like...