Gary Lewis

Jein - In my case the relay is for trailer tail & marker lamps, but it is in the same place as the marker lamps. Thanks! So, I do have a trailer relay. Now the question is how many more.

Thanks, Bill. That helps. So the '96 PDB will have the PCM and fuel pump relays. But I'm confused about what relays I have on the firewall right now. I've been saying there is a "trailer relay" but from my run through the '85 EVTM just now I don't see one. Instead the brake, turn signal, and backup lights run off of the same wiring that the truck's lights do. And the only relay I find associated with "trailer" is the aux battery relay that ensures when the engine is off a trailer or camper can only drain the aux battery. Tomorrow maybe I can figure this out, unless one of y'all know what I'm missing.

Bill - Good to know. I have a '96 PDB. Thanks.

Welcome!! Glad you joined. This is a family-friendly forum, so it should be good for your whole family. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we'd be happy to put you on if we had a city or zip. Maybe you are a neighbor to one of us? It seems like you have a good project for your family. What is the goal for your Bronco? Will it be a weekend vehicle for camping? A daily driver? A rock crawler? That will help us adjust our answers when you ask questions. And, info like that as well as other details of the truck would be really helpful if they were in a signature that gets automatically attached to each post. The more we know about your truck and your plans the better our answers will be. And you can see how to create a signature on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page. Unfortunately we don't have a video for a walk-round of under the hood, but we do have the illustration from the owner's manual shown below. Maybe that will help?

Actually, it appears to hold three relays as it is marked Trailer Tow, Fuel Pump, & EEC Power. That means that the PDB I have is apparently not wired for the fuel pump nor EEC power relays.

Thanks, Bill. And maybe your pics will show how it mounts. As said in the email, the EFI air box bracket has a spot on the side of it to mount a hood labeled Trailer Relays. I don't remember how many relays snap into it, but I'm guessing two.

Yes, you are right! I'd forgotten that. I found an old meter bracket and used it. Sure would seem like for that much money they'd send one.

Bill - That thing is unrecognizable! UGLY! But my 10mm would have eventually looked like that had I not found it as it was in a messy area. John - Is the .000 - .002" clearance to the body or the serrations? And, good tip on staying centered and pressing evenly. Thanks!

I've looked at various charts for nutserts, but found two variables that have me confused: diameter of the nutsert itself and thickness of the material it is being inserted into. This information from Skyshop fueled my concern. Their nutserts have a different profile than the ones I currently have, with theirs having serrations only at the top and mine have them up much of the body. And, they appear to be designed to collapse differently than mine. Not only that, might the thickness of the material of the nutsert be different, causing a different outside diameter? Plus their table has you changing the pilot drill size based on the thickness of the material. So, did you use a chart and, if so, which one? Or, just measure them and drill a hole they'll fit snugly into?

John - Glad to see that the nutsert tool works well. But how do you know what size hole to drill? One review said it doesn't come with a table? I have a drill index with bits by 64ths and then the letter and numbered bits. Well, most of the lettered bits. So usually have the right size. On the video, I'm surprised you think it sounds like an owl. I thought it sounded like the bellow of an angry bull. And what better horn for a Bullnose? Yes, the 800 is the top of the line, but it has some features Janey wants. Last we checked they still weren't available, but the rack on the old GE is rusting out and the wheels are literally falling off, so we'll have to do something soon.

Correct the OE headlight wires run along the inside of the cab and exit on each side and run across the fender. Im partially leaning towards running the wiring across the core support to keep the wires on the short end. On the dual fuses I could do that, but I do have driving lights tied into the highbeam relay trigger so even if a single fuse on headlights low/high were to go out I would still have the driving lights which will have its own fuse as they are a pair of 100w apollo 6" driving lights. I wouldnt lose my lights completely in this case but it wouldnt be hard to add another fuse though for the highbeam I will have well over enough fuses at 15 fuses on the box I will probably end up going with and I only need 7 fuses currently. Fuses I have so far are as follows Fuse 1 : headlight 15A Fuse 2 : Driving Lights 25A Fuse 3 : CB 5A Fuse 4 : CB Amp 15A Fuse 5 : AC Cutout 15A Fuse 6 : AC Clutch 25A Fuse 7 : Fuel Pump 15A If I added in a high beam fuse that would bring me to 8 fuses on the box leaving me 7 fuses for future expansion. Wouldnt be hard to do it like this and it would help isolate the headlight circuit so I would have at least one circuit for driving if a fuse blows. For me what I am thinking of doing is using the right headlight connector as my trigger. I have a male headlight connector that will simply do like my current plug and play relay setup is, just plug into the OE harness and you have your high/low/ground for your relay triggers. I how ever wont be using the ground though I will be tying all the relay grounds together outside of a couple of the relays for the snipers as they apply a ground to trigger those relays. I used male connectors to plug into the harness on the right side to get the trigger signals and put the relays by the battery. Then I ran the wires over the radiator, zip tied to the support, to the left headlight. And the relays are powered by fuses in the PDB.

Is the tap regular? Or does it coincide with the vacuum drop? If it is regular it is probably a lifter or it could be an exhaust leak as they sound very similar. On the vacuum, try moving vacuum hoses while the engine is running and monitor the vacuum. See if some movement causes it to drop, which could indicate a cracked hose. If not, open up the idle mix screws ~1/8 - 1/4 turn and see if the vacuum drop changes.

Very nice. But he's set the starting bid so high, probably to get around paying for a reserve price, that no one has bid in the first 17 hours of the auction.

Have you found this page? Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems and then the Hot Fuel Handling tab. And the Electrical tab. Bear in mind that the Electrical tab shows the 1985 EVTM pages and is not correct for 1986 trucks - as I recently learned. And I haven't checked to see if the '83 and '84 460's were wired like the '85s. Need to do that. Sorry about the PO. Jim might know what stock jetting is for a 4160, I don't. On the distributor, if you tell Scotty what components you have on your engine he can dial in a new dizzy and send it to you.

Good job!

LOL! I'll take the carabiner version, not the ear rings. And, y'all are going to love this - I dropped a 10 mm socket and had to go looking for it today. Found it waaaaay down in the front corner below the horn, and it took my loooooong magnet tool to retrieve it. Yep, those sockets are skittish. They love to run and hide.

Yes, make sure you check the oil for gas in it. Smell the oil. And, as Jim said, if the level goes up you have a problem! The best thing you can do for the engine is to keep clean oil in it and drive it. Some advocate using kerosene or ATF as the last quart in an oil change, but I wouldn't recommend that. One of our guys, David/1986F150Six, had the sludge come free in his engine and it plugged up the oil pickup in the pan and he lost oil pressure. That wasn't from using kerosene or ATF, but it was a sludged up engine and it all came free suddenly. So you want it to come free over time and be caught by the filter. Use a good quality oil and filter and take long drives to get everything good and warm. And then change the oil as it starts looking dirty.

Yes, that's the best way. That way if you ever drive the truck in cold weather, and I know it can get really cold there, the coolant will help warm up the transmission lube.

I'll certainly come back with a review. Amazon is amazing. I ordered it at 5:45 PM and by 6:00 PM it had shipped. And it is to be here tomorrow. So my hope is that I can set nutserts for everything on Monday and get on to draining the swamp, I mean rerouting the washer wiring, as I've been intending to do for two days. I think I'll use metric nutserts as most of the fasteners in there are metric. But that means when we are out and about on Tuesday, for Janey's 2nd vaccine shot, I'll need to pick up some bolts.

Well done! Looks great and is going to put out more at idle that the original alternator ever could at full tilt.

So, the bolts aren't really seized in the box, but in the frame? After the PB Blaster that Jim suggested I think I'd put a pry bar between the box and the frame and put steady pressure on it while tapping the end of the bolt with a drift. If it doesn't come free then I'd turn to heating the frame as close as you can get to the bolt and then tap the drift. Heat and quench with PB Blaster. Tap. Heat. Pry. Tap. Having said (typed?) that, I'm not sure you can get close enough to the bottom back bolt if it is seized near the box to put heat on it.

John - That is a shame. As Jim suggested, write a review. But I think you will be happy with the Kilmat.

Sounds like those tires would work out well.

Not sure I understand. You asked how to get the pump to run, but isn't it a mechanical pump? I didn't think the electric pumps were used in 1980. What am I missing? If it is running better each day then maybe you just need to drive it more? Change the oil and maybe it'll clean up?

Yippee! Glad it is working. You are going to love having strong output at idle. Do the belts squeal on startup? Or, did you get the LRC regulator?