Gary Lewis

I don't know what size the shunt is. Do you? As Steve83 pointed out, the shunt doesn't have to be replaced. The voltage drop across it is very small as the ammeter is very sensitive. But some people, like Ty, want to replace it, so I'm trying to figure out what size wire it should be replaced with. And the best way I could think of to do that was via the cross section of the wires it is feeding. But, I may have a shunt that I cut out of Big Blue that I can measure. I'll look tomorrow.

You are now on the map. And your plans for the Bronco are reasonable. We will help you get there and enjoy the journey along the way.

I suspect that is where the wiring and tubes for the aftermarket gauges go. I'll look tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure that is where they go. And there is plenty of time to get the grommet. Who knows, we may bring the speed control tester back - after we get our 2nd round of the vaccine. (But we'd still socially distance from you.) Anyway, I don't plan to do the EFI until next winter.

Yes and no. The fuse links have high temp insulation, which the shunt's replacement won't have. So that wire shouldn't be operated as close to the limit as the fuse links. Maybe the wires after the fuse links are the better things to gauge, pun intended, and they are #12 and #10. I just did a cross sectional area calc, and #12 is .0051 sq inches while # 10 is .0082, which gives a total of .0133. And #8 is .0130. Looks like a good fit. Thoughts?

Interesting. There is room just in front, meaning between the speed control amp and the firewall. So I need to look for that hole in the firewall. Tomorrow!

The wire from the battery to the PDB on the driver's side is a #4, Bill. And it is intended to carry everything in the cab, which is what the shunt's replacement is to do. However, that #4 is pretty long, maybe 6'? And the shunt is maybe 1'. So it really won't take a huge wire. But, if someone is running a killer stereo powered out of the cab, and then A/C, and no headlight harness, and no LED bulbs, plus power windows, there could be a lot of current.

Sounds like a good plan. It needs to be done anyway, so now is a good time. Boy, it is hard to believe those two trucks are essentially the same.

You got lucky on that little 4-banger. On the truck, drive it and change oil. Drive it and change oil. You should see things clean up and, hopefully, the blow by will decrease.

Glad it worked. It is really the luck of the draw, and you got lucky.

Bill - I don't want to do the surgery to get the ECU beside the e-brake pedal. That looks like WORK! (I'm seeing Maynard G. Krebs.) Instead I think I'll look into placing it where it would have gone in '85 or '86 - especially if the hole is there. Here's what's on Page 65 in the '86 EVTM. Not sure I understand exactly where that is, though. Looks like it is up against the firewall?

Bill - I think you missed something - we are also taking the wiring to the ammeter out. No juice to the ammeter. All - See what you think of this. I've tried to do some highlighting of the new wires. Also, what do you think of saying the shunt should be replaced with a #6 wire? That may be overkill, but #37 is a 10 gauge wire and #38 is a #12. And the shunt replacement needs to power both of those wires - all everything in the cab.

The nutsert tool came in today, on Sunday, 20 hours after ordering it. Amazing. Anyway, I tried it out on a piece of "floor" from when I cut the floor out of Dad's truck. That tool sure makes it EASY! Here's a table I made after measuring the nutserts that came with the tool, although other brand nutserts could vary. In the table I chose a drill bit slightly undersized to ensure the hole won't be too big. Then I tried installing a 1/4-20 nutsert. Sure enough it wouldn't go into a hole drilled with an 11/32" bit, but it did go, albeit tightly, into that hole after I angled the bit slightly and swirled it around. And here's the result:

Yes, the alternators usually have a ground stud. But unless you do as I've done and powder coat the alternator and the brackets and bolts, it'll ground through the mounts. But it will not hurt to ground it, and if you do then I'd go to the engine's ground stud where the ground cable from the battery comes in. As for the isolator, if it is a "smart" isolator it has sensing circuits, and if they go bad then there's a current draw. Are you looking for a replacement? I like the Cole Hersee Smart Isolators. They don't parallel the batteries until one of them gets to a voltage that proves it is getting charged, which makes sure your system is functioning.

John - This is just a test of how to show things. But we need: 1G without shunt and ammeter 1G without shunt but with voltmeter 1G with shunt and with voltmeter 1G with warning light 2G without shunt and ammeter 2G without shunt but with voltmeter 2G with shunt and with voltmeter Note that the 2G came out in '86, which was the first year they discontinued the warning light. Jim - I understand what you are saying. Show the splices rather than just continuing the wires. Got it. Ok, I'll do some more

Ok, I think we are together. Now, what about Sxxx?

Ok, I understand taking 610 apart and running a new wire. But I don't understand the 'Sxxx' bit. Can you say that differently?

Jim - Good call on the wire color for the output wire. And, I like highlighting the new wires. But on the fuse links, I'm lost. We aren't eliminating any of them as all of that part of the original wiring stays. Right?

The problem I have is that if I leave the ammeter in then do I leave the shunt in? And if the shunt is in then where does the long yellow line go? How about an intermediate step then, one between the original and the final, showing what is deleted? Like this. (Note that I didn't cross out the W/Bk wire, which probably should be in the final version.)

Bill - Thanks, a bunch. But I think I have everything needed to put the '96 harness in save for where to put the EEC. And while I do have the connector for the EEC, its wires are cut. So obviously I will have to do some splicing. Given that, I could put it under the dash. Or, I could put it under the seat. Is there an unused hole in the firewall? If so I could put it where the center speaker would have gone. Just have to remove the dash pad to get to it, but that's not to difficult. How hard is it to get to yours? Or, where did it go for the 85/86 5.0L EFI? Maybe the same bracket would work? Would be nice if it could go under the hood, but as you've seen it is FULL!

Oops - Ty, I tagged you in a new thread I've started about changes to the 3G page. Can you take a look here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-On-3G-Page-td86569.html

Jim - The back is close to the exhaust manifold, as is the wiring. Ty - Can you get a shield in between? A simple piece of aluminum half the distance would make a huge difference.

I need a bit of help on the 3G page: Documentation/Electrical/3G. Basically what I'm trying to do is understand how people want the information presented to them. To me the best option is for me to show a before and an after view. But I need your feedback. Let's take Ty's example of a 1G with ammeter but w/o converting the ammeter to a voltmeter. And, he cut out the shunt. Here's a before and an after. Does this work?

Bill - I added some tabs to the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors. I'm not too pleased with it so I know there need to be changes. But please take a look and tell me what to change.

Gary, The guys at the local auto parts shop had a good gut laugh at my expense lol. When I went to pick up my steering box I asked if they had any mechanic thumbs in stock. When they said no, I said I was going to go home for the afternoon and cry lol. I think the rule-of-thumb would apply and even an SAE thumb would fit.

Yes! You can't give it up. After all, you have a lot of blood (in your thumb nail), sweat, and maybe even tears invested in it. Anyway, well done! Good day's work, for sure.